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richard poitras
11-29-2015, 9:46 PM
For those of you that have one of the Lie Nielsen Inlay String Kits when doing stringing what size cutter blades are you using and or what is the most recommended size? .030 / .041 / .055 / .062 . I have not done any stringing as of yet but am looking at getting a stinging kit from Lie Nielsen. I did not want to order anything until I understand what I need.

Thanks Richard

mike holden
11-30-2015, 12:31 PM
Richard, are you sure you mean Lie-Nielsen? and not Lee Valley? Lee Valley has the optional widths, LN does not.
I have the LN stringing kit and it works very well, dont know the width as I cut the stringing to fit the groove.
It is easy to do, both cutting to fit, and cutting the grooves.
Mike

Chuck Nickerson
11-30-2015, 1:05 PM
In my limited experience (string inlay on nine pieces) it depends on the size of the furniture piece and how it's viewed. String inlay on a jewelry box which sits on a table and viewed up close, .062 (1/16") can look clunky. When the stringing is running down a table leg, .030 (1/32") can vanish from sight near the floor.

As always, YMMV.

Frederick Skelly
11-30-2015, 9:28 PM
I've only had the Latta set from LN since July. I use the standard blade, which is .030" (.762mm) thick. Their site says "Thicker blades (.041", .055", and .062") are also available." But I haven't tried any other blades yet. I can see that - as Chuck says - the size of the object could affect choice of width. So far, I haven't run into a need for it and I'm guessing that that LN and Mr. Latta chose 0.030 as "standard" because that's a good size for a lot of things.

I'd stay with the standard blade until you know you need something additional.

It's a great set. You won't regret the purchase.
Fred

richard poitras
11-30-2015, 10:57 PM
Thanks guys for your thoughts on the blade size. I think as stated the standard size is the way to go to start with. It makes scents about the size of the piece in conjunction of the string size. I am getting the DVD as well so I hope it helps with the learning curve as well.

Richard

Chuck Nickerson
12-01-2015, 1:10 PM
I am getting the DVD as well so I hope it helps with the learning curve as well.
Richard

I've got all the blade sizes and Latta DVD's (yes, I'm that guy) and the DVD's do help. The biggest help is doing a practice stringing or three.

Gary Muto
12-01-2015, 2:43 PM
In my limited experience (string inlay on nine pieces) it depends on the size of the furniture piece and how it's viewed. String inlay on a jewelry box which sits on a table and viewed up close, .062 (1/16") can look clunky. When the stringing is running down a table leg, .030 (1/32") can vanish from sight near the floor.

As always, YMMV.

Chuck said it better than I could. Totally agree!

richard poitras
12-01-2015, 9:31 PM
How about the blades, can they be re-sharpened and if so how are you doing them?

Mike Brady
12-02-2015, 10:39 PM
.041 stringing on a medium size walnut jewelry box lid. I used the LN tool. http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/finefettle/IMG_1091_zpsd9931073.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/finefettle/media/IMG_1091_zpsd9931073.jpg.html)

Frederick Skelly
12-03-2015, 5:56 AM
Looks good Mike! Why did you choose the slightly thicker stringing - just liked it better?

Mike Brady
12-03-2015, 9:38 AM
The pattern that I used called for .040 stringing, so I went for that. I think it is the most-used size. The pattern was by Steve Latta, which I adapted to a box of my own design.

You asked about the blades and they are sharpened like a cross-cut saw and can easily be resharpened. I used the LN radius cutter and it is a very nice tool. Practice some inlaying on scrap before doing your work piece. It is fun to do. Hand scraping is a good way to level the inlaid area for finishing. Sanding makes the the inlaid colors bleed together.