Replacement Arbor Bearings for a Grizzly G1023SL Table Saw

[Michael Zerance]

I suspect the arbor bearings have gone bad in my G1023SL. I was going to order them from Grizzly at $10.00 each or from Amazon for a little over $3.00 each (http://www.amazon.com/6203-2RS-Bearings-17x40x12-Bearing-Pre-Lubricated/dp/B00ZSQT0WA/ref=pd_sbs_328_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41P7pbBn5%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0CE4GYE7EFS8RD0QB3GX).

Is there a better option than those two sources? I would rather spend a little more for an upgraded, higher quality part so that I don't have to tear the saw down again.

[Lee Schierer]

Make sure you get equal quality, precision and proper rated bearings. All bearings are not equal and you usually get what you pay for in bearings. There should be a reputable bearing supply house in Tampa that can get you the proper bearings for your saw.

[Myk Rian]

$3.00 each? You're considering them? No way. Cheap Chit from China.
Try Accurate bearing. Lynne will take good care of you. Have the bearing numbers before you call.
Their online catalog is very informative.
http://www.accuratebearing.com/

[Dimitrios Fradelakis]

+1 for Accurate Bearings.

[Bruce Wrenn]

As for cheap Chinese stuff, I put an EXPENSIVE 6203 2RS in idler pulley on daughter's car. It lasted about 10K. The cheap (less than two bucks) Chinese from Fastenal that replaced it has over 200 K on it now, which is more than original bearing from Honda had on it before failure. So much for price equals quality

[David Kumm]

Cheap bearings might outlast if they have more clearance but that isn't what you want for spindle bearings. You generally want normal clearance, not C3 for low speed spindles. Skf Explorer are a little higher higher precision than normal. I believe nachi Quest are too but I've not used them. Dave

[Bill White]

Just be sure to get SEALED bearings. No, no, no, on shielded bearings.
Bill

[glenn bradley]

I've always had good luck with VXB (http://www.vxb.com/?gclid=CjwKEAiAhPCyBRCtwMDS5tzT03gSJADZ8VjRDhzO7bt rORtnJ3WKGl3yzSH9RYsAR_0ndpa0lj8gOxoC21Tw_wcB).

[David Kumm]

Are the bearings exposed to dust with no cover? If protected, shielded will outperform sealed although at this rpm it isn't a big deal. Sealed just should not be considered an upgrade. Open, shielded, sealed in that order if protected, opposite if not. Dave

[Enrico Caruso]

Mike,
In my humble opinion of dealing with bearing replacement needs for my 45 years career in automotive design and manufacturing, I would recommend the following. Remove the bearings out and read the name of the manufacturer and the part number that is on the side of the outer bearing raceway. For the application that you have, do not substitute any other manufacturer's bearing. Then contact a reputable supplier, such as Applied Industrial Technologies (formerly Bearings Inc) www.Applied.com (http://www.Applied.com) to procure the exact replacement parts. The application is too important to skimp on cost. Handle the old bearing removal and new bearing installation carefully.
Enrico Caruso

[Michael Zerance]

Thanks, fellas.

I emailed Accurate Bearing but never heard back. I searched for a bearing supplier in Tampa and came up with one about 1/2 mile from my shop, on the same road. I will stop by and see them.

On a side note, the clinking noise went away and the blade turns freely now. I still suspect the bearings are on their way out but I can't understand why it's running smooth again.

[Curt Harms]

I'm partial toward buying from a local industrial supplier too. You're probably going to need the bearings in hand to get the number. Or the bearing place may mic 'em. I replaced the shielded lower bearing on a Freud router with a sealed Fafnir. Wasn't cheap but so far so good.