Which apply first? Face frame or back panel on cabinetry

[julian abram]

I'm building a couple built in shelf units 30"w x 12"d x 96" high, constructed out of 3/4" maple ply. Face frame will be 3/4" poplar and back panel 1/4" maple ply. My question, does it really matter which is installed first, the face frame or the back panel?

[Bill McNiel]

Typically the back panel squares up the cabinet box. Therefore I install it first and then the face frame.

[Ray Newman]

Agree with Bill McNiel. I was taught to install the back panel when the carcass is glued, screwed, nailed, etc., together as the back panel strengthens the carcass, adds rigidity, and squares it up. Leave clamped to cure the glue, then remove clamps after glue has set up and install the face frame last.

[larry senen]

which ever way makes it easier for you. you might have to put a clamp inside the case, for example.

[Peter Quinn]

I glue on all the face frames, so often I have internal architecture with which a back would interfere during glue up. I make the frames square, get the boxes as square as possible, and proceed accordingly depending on the cabinet in question. If it's a big open box with just a perimeter frame, definetly backs on first. On a box like a vanity with lots of little drawers, might require backs later. A square back isn't going to fix a botched frame, so accuracy is important at every step, the order of assembly follows no hard rules for me.

[George Bokros]

I build my face frames square and assemble with pocket screws and build the cabinet to fit the face frame. Doing it this way have your choice to assemble including the face frame then install the back or just use the face frame to assemble but not glue on until later.

[julian abram]

Fellows, thanks for the comments on this. I've always thought attaching the back panel first was the "normal" order of construction but read an article by a cabinet pro that said he installed face frames first. That got me to questioning if it really makes any difference which goes on first as long as both are square. Again thanks for sharing your thoughts.

[Frederick Skelly]

Typically the back panel squares up the cabinet box. Therefore I install it first and then the face frame.

+1. I do the same for the same reasons.

[Marty Schlosser]

I, too follow the back first method, but emphasize that proper carcass construction dictates that every step along the way which contributes to the final outcome, be undertaken with precision. Assuming the cabinet you're making is to be square, cutting every piece square and true will do much to facilitate success. Joinery, too, needs to be precisely machined - whether by hand tools or machinery.

Finally, the glue-up and clamping needs to be done carefully to ensure the carcass is not drawn out of square - on all planes.

[Bill Orbine]

Face frame first. It's much easier and more accessible. In many cases when attaching FF to cabinet, I need to pass the clamps thru the cabinet, especially when doing complex frames. It is important to ensure cabinet it laying flat on level bench or saw horses. Sometimes, but rarely, I need to attach a diagonal brace to back of cabinet to keep it square. Backs go on afterwards, often temporarily, before fitting doors and drawers and whatever ever that needs to be done before finishing. It's much easier to do finishing inside cabinets with backs removed.

[roger wiegand]

Self-evident, but if you are installing the face frame after the cabinet boxes have been set into place you need to put the backs on first. One of the benefits of DIY cabinetry is being able to eliminate the seams between cabinets.

[Rich Riddle]

Self-evident, but if you are installing the face frame after the cabinet boxes have been set into place you need to put the backs on first. One of the benefits of DIY cabinetry is being able to eliminate the seams between cabinets.
I install face frames last for exactly the reason you stated.

[Tom M King]

If you spray the finish, it's easier to leave the backs off, and assemble after everything is dry.

[Joe O'Connor]

I spray my cabinets before installing the back so I always put the face frame on first. I screw corner braces to the back edge of the cabs to hold them square that are removed before installing the back.

[John T Barker]

Typically the back panel squares up the cabinet box. Therefore I install it first and then the face frame.

Plenty of cabinets don't have backs or have backs that aren't ply or as easy to make square as ply. I think it would be best to make the cabinet square and then glue a square face frame to it. Put the ply back on last.

[Tom Ewell]

A lot depends on how the face frames are put on as well, I'll use anything from dominos to dados which means that the case will be squared and stabilized by locking in all the parts with joinery.

Add in the stretchers, cleats plus whatever is needed for drawer hardware all assembled on a flat (level) assembly table with a quick check for overall square during clamping and good to go.

I like setting up interior hardware without the backs on too, can see and reach things a lot easier.

As mentioned above, if the cases are pre installed and there is no desire to butt unit frames together then yeah, put the backs on first, face frame and then put in all of that drawer slide hardware in place.

[Jon Grider]

I'm in the back before ff camp, but do see the advantages of spraying the inside of the box before the back is on .However, I never use 1/4" ply on the back; my thought is that the back acts like the spine and adds strength against racking and compression as well as squaring the box especially on a 30X96 cab. I use 1/2" or 3/4" ply for the back just like I do for the sides. Thicker backs also give you something more substantial to screw into the wall if that's part of the build.

[John Sincerbeaux]

This is one of those... No right or wrong answer. When I was in college I worked in a cabinet shop? I was taught to put backs in first then face frames. If a cabinet was going between two walls, we "undersized (slightly) the box and oversized the FF. This way the cabinet always fit in the spaces and then you trim the FF's to fit perfectly between the not perfect walls. If the cabinet was going to be free standing or hanging, we would flush trim the FF to the carcass. Since our FF's were always constructed "oversized, they couldn't really be used to true up the carcass if placed on first.