Better Cheaper Jointer Push Blocks

[Prashun Patel]

I've been looking for decent jointer push blocks. The rubber soled get too slippy over time and IMHO don't excel at pushing heavy stock across the bed. The heeled ones are not appropriate for long stock. I love my Euro-style blade guard, but still don't trust that may hand won't slip under. I made these last night. Wish I could take credit for them, but I found the solution on the 'tube.

I deconstructed 2 cheap notched trowels from the tiling section of the home store ($3.00/ea). I screwed the handles to scrap blocks of 3/4" plywood. On the bottom side, I screwed two mending plates ($0.80/ea).

I can attest to the video's assertion that the spikes don't really harm the wood, because you don't have to bear down so hard. Anyway, I usually plan to plane the 'spiked' side.

[David Eisenhauer]

Looks better than my shop-made push blocks faced with sandpaper that requires replacing from time-to-time. I just had this issue trying to push some 6"x48" 8/4 oak across the jointer a few days ago and the sandpaper was worn down one set of blocks and the rubber faced ones don't provide enough "grab". I don't mind pushing by hand when it only requires little effort to push the wood across the knives, but heavier stuff that requires lots of push makes me feel that I am not in control of my hands, especially when combined with my less than powerful springs on the knife guard.

[Andrew Hughes]

Very similar to what I use except I have one King kong sized pusher.With two stainless screws barely poking thru.Havent had any slippage like the foam pad.
You must be happy with your new machine since your making specials for it.👍

[Rod Sheridan]

Neat idea Prashun, however I have to admit that I don't know if I could use a block with metal pieces on a jointer.

When I make my push blocks I won't even use screws in them...........Regards, Rod.

[Earl McLain]

Huh--kind of makes me wonder how the side of a cheese grater might work. You think my Sicilian Spouse would notice one face missing when she tried to grate some fresh Romano on Thanksgiving??

earl

[Matt Day]

I like it Prashun. I feel like I'm constantly (and dangerously) fighting my lumber on the jointer; the bigger the board the bigger the fight. I don't know why I even have those foam/rubber push blocks as they are just about useless on anything bigger than 3 or 4 feet.

I also fight getting enough grip on the floor. Dust quickly makes my concrete floor slippery.

[Victor Robinson]

I also fight getting enough grip on the floor. Dust quickly makes my concrete floor slippery.

I don't think it would be too difficult to modify Prashun's design to fit your feet...

[Phil Stone]

The shop at the university has grip tape on the floor in front of the jointer. I think this is an excellent idea.

[Prashun Patel]

In fact, if you make the plywood square instead of rectangular, the push blocks will make passable slip on golf sandals and lawn aerators.

[Matt Day]

Why are you guys sharing these great ideas?! Patent them quick! ;-).

Phil, Do you know what kind of grip tape they used?

[Phil Stone]

Why are you guys sharing these great ideas?! Patent them quick! ;-).

Phil, Do you know what kind of grip tape they used?

Not exactly, but it's the kind you see commonly, like on outdoor stairs. Kind of a sandpaper surface.

[Mikail Khan]

Thanks

Look good.

MK

[Ben Rivel]

Pretty cool. That IS a good idea!

[Prashun Patel]

I have been using these for a couple months now. I just finished jointing a bunch of rough lumber for a project, and I simply LOVE them. I have never jointed with such minimal effort.

For those who are concerned with holes from the spikes, I realized that MOST of my jointing is followed by thicknessing in the planer. So it's a non issue.

It makes it so much easier to hold things both against the bed and also against the fence.

My jointing results have never been better and with less effort...

[Prashun Patel]

Looping back to this thread...

3.5 years later, I have reverted to using a longer push block with a heel (20" 2x4 with a screwed on hardboard heel. Sandpaper for hand grip). I do find that on longer, heavier stock, you have to bear down with these metal ones. That has led to problems with bowing for me. It also just takes too much effort, which feels dangerous. The longer hook-block is moves the stock forward easier.

I still use these for smaller pieces where the heeled push block is too big.

[Ben Rivel]

Looping back to this thread...

3.5 years later, I have reverted to using a longer push block with a heel (20" 2x4 with a screwed on hardboard heel. Sandpaper for hand grip). I do find that on longer, heavier stock, you have to bear down with these metal ones. That has led to problems with bowing for me. It also just takes too much effort, which feels dangerous. The longer hook-block is moves the stock forward easier.

I still use these for smaller pieces where the heeled push block is too big.
Wow, nice follow up! Post a pic of what youre using now if you get a chance.

[Al Launier]

i don't think it would be too difficult to modify prashun's design to fit your feet...

Now that was funny! :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

[Ron Selzer]

Thanks for the feed back.
Have been working some Cherry down on a 6" jointer and wanting something better than the rubber blocks. Just not certain what


Looping back to this thread...

3.5 years later, I have reverted to using a longer push block with a heel (20" 2x4 with a screwed on hardboard heel. Sandpaper for hand grip). I do find that on longer, heavier stock, you have to bear down with these metal ones. That has led to problems with bowing for me. It also just takes too much effort, which feels dangerous. The longer hook-block is moves the stock forward easier.

I still use these for smaller pieces where the heeled push block is too big.