Laminate Question

[Wayne Waag]

I'm making a vanity top that will have a glue on edge banding (Wilsonart bevel edge). I will be adding a 3/4 inch strip below the top to support the edge band. I intend to prepare the edge once the strip is attached using a 2 flute straight router bit. Here's my question. What's best? 1. Straighten the edge first and then glue the laminate to the top and then trim the laminate or 2. glue the laminate to the top first and then straighten the edge with the laminate already glued? I'm leaning toward the second approach. Please advise. Thanks.

wwaag

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

Option 2 should give you a slightly cleaner edge.
Option 1 followed by a sanding block to the edge should give you a perfectly acceptable edge as well.

[Peter Kelly]

Make the top oversized, lay up p-lam on top and trim to final size on the table or track saw. A bearing guided bit running over raw flakeboard edges won't give you a particularly smooth or precise edge.

If the table saw isn't an option on a large piece, a router and straight edge usually gives acceptable results.

[Bob Hoffmann]

Getting the edge matching he top is irrelevant to putting on the laminate.

When I worked I a laminate shop, the base was always done first. This means put the extra board to build up the top thickness, and route is t the top shape using a bearing running on the top.

Then laminate the top. You want the edge to cover the laminate edge so that the laminate dos not get caught when lifting something along the edge. One the edge is on, you can run a router with a bearing on the top and bottom. This can be a little tricky -- to keep the router from tilting, and maybe a fence to ride on the top / bottom may help.

[Robert Engel]

Straighten the edge first. That way if there is an "oops" like a tipped router ^ you haven't damaged your laminate.

I always put the edge lam on first. No special reason other than I think I get a cleaner trim on the top, and the edge of the edge ;) isn't showing.

[Martin Wasner]

Straighten the edge first. That way if there is an "oops" like a tipped router ^ you haven't damaged your laminate.

I always put the edge lam on first. No special reason other than I think I get a cleaner trim on the top, and the edge of the edge ;) isn't showing.


This is bevel edging, I don't know how you'd put it on first then laminate the top face.

If you're using good particle board, I'd just stick it and route off the excess. The core is finer and cuts better on high quality particle board. Running it through a saw after it's been stuck would work well too, but only if it's a straight top obviously

[Wayne Waag]

Thanks for the replies. The top definitely needs to go on first. The bevel edge is designed to cover the edge of the top laminate to create an almost "seamless" look. I am using high density particle board. Regardless, I do not intend to use a router bit with bearing attached, but plan to simply have a straight edge clamped to the top to serve as a guide for the router, hopefully minimizing any chance of tilt. I do have a large table saw, but getting an absolute straight cut with such a large piece seems even more difficult to achieve. One good thing is that the minimum size of laminate (4 x 8), is twice the amount required, so I've got 2 chances to get it right. Again, thanks.

[johnny means]

Build up. Flush rout. Check top for flatness, whom if necessary. Laminate. Check for voids on edge. Trim laminate. Apply edge. Liberal use of waterproof glue is advised. You want the joint sealed, any infiltrating water will cause swelling and cause separation. Tape is your best bet for clamping.

[Michael Zerance]

Build up. Flush rout. Check top for flatness, whom if necessary. Laminate. Check for voids on edge. Trim laminate. Apply edge. Liberal use of waterproof glue is advised. You want the joint sealed, any infiltrating water will cause swelling and cause separation. Tape is your best bet for clamping.

+1

I use Titebond III and masking tape to "clamp" it. You can get some good stretch from the masking tape and it pulls the edge fairly tight.

To answer your question; option 2 would give you a cleaner edge with less work.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

The recommended tape for applying those laminate edges is the strapping tape with the string embedded in the tape. The tape can't tear, so you can get much higher clamping pressure with it.

[Michael Zerance]

The recommended tape for applying those laminate edges is the strapping tape with the string embedded in the tape. The tape can't tear, so you can get much higher clamping pressure with it.

That may be the recommended tape but I have used masking tape exclusively with no issues. I have used both the blue painter's tape and regular masking tape; either works fine. I may end up stretching a few pieces too much and tearing it but another piece is easy to apply. Plus, I don't need to source special strapping tape. Additionally, the masking tape comes off quickly and cleanly.

[Wayne Waag]

The project is finished. I went with option 2 and it worked great. After gluing the laminate, I did a quick edge trim with the usual trim bit that has a small ball bearing attached. The edge was not very smooth. I really don't like those bits. I then used a 2 in Freud double flute straight bit for the final trim. Had to wait for a delivery from Amazon. The result--a very smooth edge. I was quite pleased. For the bevel edge trim, I used Titebond 3 glue with 2 inch blue masking tape applied every 5 or 6 inches. As Wilsonart suggests, I used a scrap piece of trim to remove a few small glue drops that emerged beneath the tape. The result--pretty close to perfect. Again, thanks for all of the replies.

wwaag