Jessem Mast-R Lift Excel II

[Patrick Harper]

I've been looking for a router table for some time and really like the idea of the integrated Excel II. I went by Woodcraft over the weekend to test drive one and was really impressed. However, I'd like to build my own base, add some drawers, and better dust collection. Has anyone out there done this with the Excell II? Just looking for ideas. Dr. Google informed me that the only cure for my disease was more cowbell. :cool:

[Patrick Harper]

Anyone out there done this? I might just have to be a pioneer.

[Prashun Patel]

I don't have the Excel, but I have another Mast R Lift from Incra. On the Incra website, under Free Plans, they have a downdraft cabinet plan that should give you some ideas.

I made my own version of that. On the dust collection, I find that making the bottom sloped or better a cone will help chips from building up in there. To keep the motor cool, you want decent airflow through, so you may improve your performance by building in adjustable vent through the cabinet.

"I put my pants on one leg at a time just like everybody else. The only difference is once they're on, I make gold records."

[Kent Adams]

I highly recommend incorporating Incra's clean sweep dust collection which should fit the Jessem lift. It is most choice.

[Richard Hash]

I don't have the Excell II, but I have the Incra Mast-R-Lift II installed in a home-built cabinet, which is patterned after the one in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. The main cavity under the router pulls air across the bottom extremely well, and I never have dust build-up in the cabinet.

You can see some photos of it in this post (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?231326-Screeching-and-gnashing-noises).

Hope that helps.

[Patrick Harper]

Thanks a lot guys. Lots of good ideas. I was hoping to find someone who has actually done this. I'm just in love with the Excel. The Jessem stand attaches to the Excel Table/Lift from the bottom. My thought is to attach two runners to the bottom using the existing holes and attach the base through the sides of the runners. I might just give up on the idea and go with the full package and get the Incra clean sweep.

[Kent Adams]

Patrick, I have the Incra branded Jessem Master Lift II in my table and its wonderful. I took a look at the Excel II. That wheel is attractive, however, I don't think it would be as convenient for my use. I like having the lift engaged from the top so when I'm setting up the bit with a set up block, I can raise or lower the bit without having to reach over to the side to raise or lower. Also, my shop is small so that wheel would snag on things. The Jessem lifts are really nice, I'm sure you'll be happy. That clean sweep keeps virtually all the dust off my router table. I have it hooked into my DC system. Spring for the6 piece magna lock set too.

[Joseph Donahue]

Hi Patrick - did you ever put something together to collect dust under the Excel II table? I just bought one of the Jessem Excel II packages with table/fence/stand and am in the process of setting it up. I hope to construct a dust box as well in time and would appreciate any thoughts you have on this topic.

[David Jurincie]

I ordered the Ultimate Excel II Package about a week ago directly from Jessem. The person on the phone said there is now some sort of small shroud below the table with a 4" port, but she could not find a picture of it to send me. The table is of course on back order like most woodworking supplies, but I should know more in 6-8 weeks.

[Joseph Donahue]

Hi David, she might have been referring to the shroud that attaches to the bottom of the table with 4 screws. It comes with the Excel II table and from what I have seen on Youtube, does a pretty good job of collecting dust. I am looking to build a box that fully encloses the router and lift which should offer better dust collection. It will accept a 4 inch flex hose at the back and have some sort of vent to allow fresh air into the so that the dust collector isn't starved. I am still in the planning stage at this point.

[Dave Seng]

I have the same table. I was not overly impressed by the below the table shroud - I ended up with a lot of sawdust on the floor using that. I just finished a small dust collection box for mine. 4 inch dust collection port and a sliding door for access to the router and to allow extra air to be pulled in. I'm just starting to build a small set of drawers that will sit on the shelf underneath the dust collection box. 452720452721

[Joseph Donahue]

David that looks really nice, how did you attach the box to the table? Thanks for the photos, they really help!

[Dave Seng]

Joseph,

There are a couple of 1 1/4"x10" pieces of 1/2" Baltic Birch that serve as mounting flanges at the top. Drilled oversized holes in the BB plywood flanges and then screwed the flanges directly to the phenolic top.

Dave

[Joseph Donahue]

Thanks for the explanation, just a couple of clarifying questions:
1. did you use some existing holes(made by Jessem) in the phenolic top or did you drill your own?
2. if you drilled your own holes, did you do that freehand or in a drill press? Any special bit or technique involved?
3. Did you use a special screw to attach the flanges to the top?

I am hesitant to drill into the top as I have not worked with phenolic before. From what I can learn, it seems like a difficult material to machine. I was thinking about mounting some strips like you did, but with epoxy which I read can be used to join wood to phenolic. I would prefer to attach with screws if I can do this confidently.

Thanks for your help!

Joe

[Thomas Colson]

I have done this with the Jessem: I made a cabinet with 3, cabinet-wide bottom drawers, then the top of the cabinet is basically u shaped, so the lift hangs down under the table in the middle "empty" space, with two small router bit drawers on either side. I very thoughtlessly sealed it off with duct tape, and a 4" hose stuffed in the back gets most of the dust that goes down.

[Dave Seng]

Thanks for the explanation, just a couple of clarifying questions:
1. did you use some existing holes(made by Jessem) in the phenolic top or did you drill your own?
2. if you drilled your own holes, did you do that freehand or in a drill press? Any special bit or technique involved?
3. Did you use a special screw to attach the flanges to the top?

I am hesitant to drill into the top as I have not worked with phenolic before. From what I can learn, it seems like a difficult material to machine. I was thinking about mounting some strips like you did, but with epoxy which I read can be used to join wood to phenolic. I would prefer to attach with screws if I can do this confidently.

Thanks for your help!

Joe

Hey Joe,

I did not use any existing holes in the top because there weren't any located near where I needed to make the attachment. I drilled the holes freehand and sized them just slightly smaller than the thread diameter of the screws. Running screws into a phenolic top is tough, because there's very little "give" to the material. It drills just fine with standard drill bits - just be careful about not drilling too deep. I selected the screw length so that about 1/2" of the screw threads went into the phenolic material. Ran them in by hand. I too, thought about using epoxy, but really wanted to avoid making a permanent connection. Just used a heavy gauge sheet metal screw - #10x1". It was actually pretty easy - just took a little more care than usual to get it right.

[Joseph Donahue]

David - thanks for the clarification, all of that makes a lot of sense and I feel like that is something that I can do. Really appreciate your help, will let you know how it goes. I am in the process of rebuilding my woodshop after it has been in storage for 15+ years so there are a lot of simultaneous things going on such as electrical circuit installation/dust collection system construction/machine setup/lighting/tool layout/etc, but dust collection is a top priority for me, and this is one of the main reasons I am upgrading my router table, for better dust collection.