Veritas Honing guide dents plane iron

[Joseph Chang]

Hi,

I recently started using hand tools (much quieter) and bought a Veritas honing guide and a hand plane. I found that the registration stop in the guide seems to dents my plane iron because I always found that there was reflection where the plane iron hit the stop. I tried to be gentle but still could not eliminate it. To get rid of the dent, I had to sharpen a lot longer.

Does anybody have the same problem? If so, how do you eliminate it?

Thanks,
Joseph

[Jim Koepke]

Can you post pictures?

They sure can help with a situation such as this.

jtk

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Joseph:
I don't use the Veritas guide, so others probably have a better answer. To set my (nowhere near as nice as the Veritas) honing guide to hit the same bevel angle each time, I made a simple jig out of some scrap. The base is a small piece of 1/4 plywood, with a couple of blocks of scrap glued on at different distances from the edge. If I put the honing guide up against the edge of the plywood, and extend the blade until it contacts one block I get a bevel angle of 25 degrees, another block is set for 30 degrees. When I want to set up an iron in the guide it just takes a couple of moments, and because everything is wood I don't have to worry about damaging the edge.

Nick

[Matt Bainton]

Joseph, I think I know what you are talking about. For me, when I put a sharp plane blade with a delicate edge prepped, the edge can slide slightly under the metal length-stop. Then, when tightening down the jig, it flexes the blade away from theregistration jig, which in turn can clip the razor edge.

I'm considering replicating the length-stop in something softer, like wood or plastic.

[Frederick Skelly]

I think I understand you. See if any of these ideas help.

I only use the registration stop to set the length of blades that are dull; i.e., at the start of the sharpening process, when the blade is dull(er). By any chance are you taking the sharpened plane iron out of the jig before changing grits, perhaps to polish the back to remove the wire edge (bur), then putting the sharpened iron back into the jig to resume sharpening? If so, that will cause what you describe. Set the jig once and remove the bur with the jig still attached. DAMHIKT. :)

Another idea is that the stop might have a small bur that's nicking your edge. Try running a small file against the place where the iron touches the stop.

A third idea might be to just put a piece of masking tape on the stop, as a sort of very thin cushion. But I'd be sure to use the file on it first, else whatever is nicking the blade might push through the tape and bite you regardless.

I don't know if any of these help, but if they dont, post pictures as Mr. Koepke suggested and I'm sure someone will be able to help. This is a great group of folks.

Oh, one more idea- call Lee Valley and describe it. They will be glad to help you with their product.

Sorry for the long winded post. I hope it helps.
Fred

[Mike Cherry]

If I am picturing this correctly, one side of the registration jig contacts the end of the blade to set the depth. The only way I can see this "denting" the iron is if he is slamming it into the thing or if, when he tightens the bar clamp, it is causing flex somewhere and that dulls the edge. I would recommend that you carefully set the depth. Finger tighten the bar clamp, and then loosen the depth setting and move it out of the way. Then you can tighten the bar clamp further if you feel it necessary. Don't over tighten that clamp though, it bends easily.

[Mike Brady]

Mike and Frederick make some good suggestions. From back when I still used the MkII, I would guess that when the final tension is applied to the blade clamp the blade is being pushed slightly into the stop. You would think that impression would be honed away, but possibly not. Suggesting that the final tension be applied after the stop plate is removed is a good one.

[Matt Bainton]

I only use the registration stop to set the length of blades that are dull; i.e., at the start of the sharpening process, when the blade is dull(er). By any chance are you taking the sharpened plane iron out of the jig before changing grits, perhaps to polish the back to remove the wire edge (bur), then putting the sharpened iron back into the jig to resume sharpening? If so, that will cause what you describe. Set the jig once and remove the bur with the jig still attached. DAMHIKT. :)

Another idea is that the stop might have a small bur that's nicking your edge. Try running a small file against the place where the iron touches the stop.

I believe you are on to something here. I came across my issue (if in fact it is the same as Joseph's) when trying to reset chisels or irons after removing them to work the back, and just as you prescribe I've learned to do those operations on the back while leaving the blade in the jig.

Mike Cherry, I believe this is the edge that causes the nick, not the side of the registration jig: 325365

[Prashun Patel]

I've been using this jig for a couple years. I have not noticed this problem.

[Mike Cherry]

I believe you are on to something here. I came across my issue (if in fact it is the same as Joseph's) when trying to reset chisels or irons after removing them to work the back, and just as you prescribe I've learned to do those operations on the back while leaving the blade in the jig.

Mike Cherry, I believe this is the edge that causes the nick, not the side of the registration jig: 325365
I'm with you Matt, I may not have explained myself well enough. I am suggesting that the blade is being forced into the stop when he tightens the clamping mechanism (possibly).

If the problem can not be determined by the excellent suggestions thus far, I highly recommend calling Lee Valley. I can speak first hand about their willingness to make your product right. They went so far as to replace my honing guide after I had owned it for more than three years. I had the out of square micro bevel deal, which is why I cautioned earlier about tightening the clamping mechanism too tight haha

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

Better do not touch the stop with the blade. I always stay shy of it.

But recently, I don't even use registration jig at all. Only if I need to change the angle dramatically. If I want to sharpen at the same angle as before I do it by trying on flat surface. Fix it slightly, put on the flat surface (like glass) and see how edge is contacting the surface. Or better yet, see how Matthew Cremona (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDpL0v-Ifie7u05lbfO3zJQ) does it on youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYTxQxy5Fww

[Bob Glenn]

I find it easier to use a small straight edge, like a six inch metal scale, across the honing guide wheel and the iron. Hold it up to the light for an exact setting.

[Mark AJ Allen]

I can see how it happens though I have been able to avoid it by being careful. Simple solution ... put a small piece of tape where the blade edge touches the guide stop. If clamp really does push the blade into the guide stop, it's got a layer of tape to go through first. Might be enough to prevent blade being marred.

[lowell holmes]

I've had the jig for years and never experienced the issue. I don't honk down on the clamp other than finger tight. If you continue having the problem I suggest you set the iron and tighten the clamp finger tight, then remove the guide. After the guide is removed, then really tighten the clamp.

[Joseph Chang]

Thank everyone's suggestions. This forum is really wonderful. I was actually making a wood stop before I saw Nick's suggestion :)

I think the situation is as what Matt Bainton described. Here is what I did. I gently pushed my plane iron against the registration stop and slowly and evenly tightened the two knobs holding the iron. When I removed the registration jig, I noticed that there was reflection where the registration stop was. It was obvious because there was only that corner and I don't think it was there before I started. Then I started sharpening and I didn't remove the plane iron during the sharpening session. I periodically checked to make sure that the SMALL dent were gone. If there was no dent, I think I can sharpen much quickly.

I may try to remove the registration jig before completely tighten the two knobs. Maybe try some tape.

I will try to take photos next time I am in the shop. Not sure if my camera can catch that.

Again, thanks everyone.

[Mike Cherry]

Hope it all works out for you buddy. For what it's worth, it is for little issues like this that I switched to freehanding. I only use a jig now for when I need an exact angle for bevel up blades that have micro bevels greater than ~25 degrees. I struggled with sharpening for a long while. I go back and forth between hollow grinds and convex bevels, but at the end of the day sharp is sharp(and then there's really sharp). Experiment with it on a chisel you don't use often. It's easier on a wider chisel as you get more registration. You didn't mention what media you are using to sharpen, but if you have a well set primary bevel from your jig it takes me about 10 strokes(in just one direction) to get a nice burr on a 1k water stone. Repeat all the way up to your finish stone and your golden.

If I had it to do all over again, I would tell myself not to overthink this stuff too much. Form a burr and remove it. You'll get better and better with experience. Cheers!

[Jeff L Jump]

I have also used this jig for a number of years, have not had any issue with damaging any part of any blade or chisel I've sharpened. I have learned over time that it's easy to over tighten clamping the blade/chisel in the jig and in fact you can introduce some deflection if you crank it down tight enough. Might back off a bit on how much you tighten the clamp on your blade. It's an effective clamping setup and clamps well without having to over tighten. I use a LOT less clamping pressure now than what I used to crank that thing down to. I had a small problem with the thumb screw that clamps the stop to the jig being hard to release after clamping the blade tight. Again, part of that was too much clamping pressure but I also found that the hole for the thumb screw that tightens the stop to the jig would bind up a bit after clamping the blade really tight (there was some deflection there after clamping the blade that tight) and it was difficult to release the thumb screw to remove the stop. I drilled out the clearance hole for the thumb screw to open up the clearance a bit. That made a big difference in how easy it was to clamp the stop to the jig to set the blade angle properly and then remove the stop for sharpening. In general though this has been an excellent jig for me.

[Joseph Chang]

Hope it all works out for you buddy. For what it's worth, it is for little issues like this that I switched to freehanding. I only use a jig now for when I need an exact angle for bevel up blades that have micro bevels greater than ~25 degrees.

I'm learning to sharpen my first hand plane: BU jack plane. Since the angle is critical, I need the honing guide to maintain the correct angle.

There are a lots of great suggestions I need to try.:D

[lowell holmes]

Goggle Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide, it is available at Amazon.

This is the jig I've gone to if I use a jig. I have more or less retired the Lee Valley jigs, I have both. I primarily free hand sharpen, keeping diamond hones out on the bench.

[paul cottingham]

Remember, it doesnt matter if you are out by a degree or 2. What matters is consistency. I use a jig like Nicholas describes, and use it mostly with a simple side clamp guide. I have a Veritas (really, who doesn't?) but I hate the fact that chisels and plane iron can cock in it. I use a small piece of scrap to set a microbevel.