Watco Danish Oil - How many coats?

[Glen Blanchard]

I recently completed a hollow form which I have finished with a couple coats of Danish oil. Is there any advantage in applying additional coats? Would additional coats change the appearance of the finish at all or further enhance the figure in the wood.......or would there be no visual change from the two coats that are on it now?

[Prashun Patel]

The conventional wisdom is that you don't need more than 2-3 coats of it and that it won't build a film.

But I submit to you to try applying more coats: apply liberally, then buff off completely after about 5 minutes of sitting. Buff like you're polishing shoes, not cleaning a pot. Every 2-3 coats, sand your piece with higher grits of sandpaper, up to at least 600, but even better up to 2000-4000.

After your final sanding, moisten a cloth with DO and just polish it to give it a final shine. You'll find that it does indeed make the thinnest and silkiest of films.

On any kind of oil-varnish application, I apply probably 8-10 coats this way, and my fingers thank me.

[Bill White]

Are you pleased with the existing finish, color, gloss? Did you wipe it, brush? Pics?
Too many variables for us to give you a response that would be meaningful.
Bill

[Art Mann]

While Danish Oil does a great job of enhancing wood grain, the finish doesn't provide enough luster for me. Once upon a time, I built a series of very nice Walnut case clocks in honor of my recently deceased father-in-law to give to each of his grandchildren. The wood had already been cut and sawed at his farm and air dried in the tractor shed. I used two coats of Watco Danish oil but was not entirely satisfied for the reason stated above. On a whim, I finished one of the clocks with 3 coats of vigorously buffed Johnson's paste wax. The wood absolutely glowed and was silky smooth to the touch. I finished the rest of the clocks that way and gave them away to my children and nieces. That was 10 years ago. To this day, the clocks still look great and have a wonderful warm luster. If the finish gets hazy, simply buffing with a worn out t-shirt will restore the appearance almost immediately. I would not recommend this schedule for anything that requires scratch or wear resistance but for anything like a clock that just sits there, it is a great combination.

[John K Jordan]

I, like others, use multiple coats, depending on the wood and look desired. I initially apply as much that will soak in. I've heard of people immersing the piece is a container of oil. Then wipe off completely and let dry, wiping again as often as necessary. (I don't think further application will enhance the figure or color of the wood, just the surface) After that sits a while, I wipe on another coat then immediately wipe off. If you let the oil sit on the surface it tends to get gummy. I repeat this several times with perhaps several days or a week between each time. It does eventually build up a film of resins. After a few weeks, I might Beall buff for a glossy finish.

[Jim Tobias]

Like Prashun, I like to put it on and "buff" it in with higher and higher grits of sandpaper. I am finishing up a project now that I used a 3000 grit Mirka Abralon pad on the last coat......it feels like glass yet has a warm, soft glow.

Jim

[Glen Blanchard]

Lots of good information. Thanks, gentlemen. I'm tempted to Beall buff it, but am undecided. I suppose I like both the flat look of the oil by itself while at the same time I also like a little bit of sheen. I'll sit on this one for a few days before deciding what to do.

Here are a couple of pics of the piece.

Thanks again.

325208325216

[john taliaferro]

I like it now ,but it would sell for me faster glossy . Glossy or satin has a lot to do with size how tall is it.

[Marvin Hasenak]

I use Watco Teak oil instead of the Danish oil, from my readings most of the Danish oil blends lack UV Protection like the teak oils do. I apply using a method that Frank Whiton uses for gunstocks. https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037

His procedure lets you stop at any level of shine that you want. It is durable, but can take a long time to complete. I have some game calls that have been in use for years that after I use them, I clean and apply a coat of Kiwi neutral shoe polish and they look like new. If you are looking for fast and easy, skip this method, it is neither fast, easy or simple.

[carl mesaros]

I like to sand my bowls to 400 grit while on the lathe. Then apply Watco Danish oil ( natural) as heavy as possible. Let it sit for your lunch hour then apply a second heavy coat. Allow to sit overnight. The next day apply EEE ultra shine, while still on the lathe. This is a combination wax and fine abrasive that really works well. It is supposed to bring the surface to a 2000 grit finish.
I then finish with Town Talk orange wax. Or the wax of your choice.

[Bill Boehme]

Lots of good information. Thanks, gentlemen. I'm tempted to Beall buff it, but am undecided. I suppose I like both the flat look of the oil by itself while at the same time I also like a little bit of sheen. I'll sit on this one for a few days before deciding what to do.

Here are a couple of pics of the piece.

Thanks again.

325208325216

Glen,

Whatever type of finishing method you choose, I would suggest for your safety that you do not power buff it with a spinning mop. You need to be extra careful about using any power tools on a piece with a large irregular hole in the side.

The Watco Danish Oil is mainly a blend of mineral spirits, linseed oil, and varnish. After about three coats you are mainly varnishing the surface. If you want a faster build, you might want to try Minwax Antique Oil. The Watco Teak Oil is mostly mineral spirits and linseed oil. If it has any varnish, it isn't much.

[Dan Borello]

I am going through the same thought process. I am making a weather station for the wall, so durability isn't a concern. I am using Walnut and Wenge. I put on the first coat using the directions on the can, apply liberally, wait 30 minutes, reapply, wait 15 minutes, and rub off. The Wenge appear to have blotches when I returned, so I kept buffing it.

What is the recommendation for additional coats? Necessary? How would you prepare between coats?

The idea of finishing with paste wax is intriguing.

[Wes Ramsey]

A common recipe I've been using for a while with great success is 1 part each of boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, and poly (I use semi-gloss since it is what I had, but next time will try high gloss). If you need some UV protection I don't see why you couldn't sub spar urethane for the poly. I've used a variety of methods and have learned that the most satisfying results require the most time and patience. However, I just finished a small oak bookcase for my son that turned out well with just 1 coat. I flooded the surfaces, wiping more on for several passes, then wet sanded with 240 grit paper. The results were surprisingly good, but not nearly as good as the cherry bookcase I made my wife that had 6-8 applications of DO, most were from wet sanding up to 600 grit. I tried paste wax, but it didn't do anything to enhance the look so I only did the 1 shelf.

If you decide to use paste wax, use it SPARINGLY. It dries almost immediately and is a bear to buff out if you leave any lines/streaks. I've used Johnson's for years and just started using Renaissance, but I'm not convinced yet it is worth triple the price for 1/4 of the size.