Old Technique Works Great

[Bob Winkler]

After a summer of home improvement projects, I was finally able to get back to the cherry/maple bookcase (FWW January 2003) I started in January. The plans called for a large radius curve on the edge of the shelves and top, for which they used a multiple dado cut and cove bit setup. Since I sold my dado blade and don't own a large radius cove-type bit, I thought about ordering a nice raised-panel bit for my router table. But the thought of spending $100+ and cutting a 3.5" hole in my router plate didn't sit well with me.

I remembered an old technique use the TS to cut large coves. A google search turned up the basics, and an hour later I was running a test piece. I was very surprised at how well this worked. Using my usual 10" carbide blade with a guide set at 35 deg, I was able to get the cove I wanted in 5 passes. The secret is to raise the blade in small increments, and move the wood very slowly to minimize blade marks. Sanding will easily remove any remaining saw marks (I'm sure a scraper would work even better).

The best part of this technique is that it uses no special tools or complicated setup, and by adjusting the guide angle, a wide variety of coves can be cut. The pictures below show the basic setup with my old Craftsman TS, and some shots of the resulting shelves.

I'm sure I'll be using this technique again :)
Bob

[John Miliunas]

Good job, Bob! Yeah, that's a pretty slick method, IMHO. Also, FWIW, I did the same basic thing quite some time ago while making some kitchen cabinets for LOML. The "twist" on it was, she wanted an open shelved unit for storing dinner plates vertically, in between dowels. I took that method and, instead of putting the cove on an edge, I planted it in the middle of the bottom board for the cabinet. That allowed a natural "valley" for the plates to rest in and prevented them from rolling right out the cabinet. :) Like I said, neat technique and, as you mention, the price is right!:D :cool:

[Alan Turner]

Yep. Quick and easy and cheap. I do this for ogee bracket feet. If you will file a scraper to an even radius, you will save a ton of sanding time. And, it will work for many diff. coves by simply angling it to fit your profile.

[Roy Wall]

Bob,
Nice tip!! .........and timely too. FWW currently features and article on coves with the TS. Thanks!!!

[Martin Lutz]

Thanks for the reminder of this technique. I have been experimenting with my router bit collection trying to find the "perfiect" profile for tops on a bedroom set. I had not thought of cutting the cove on the TS. I have done it before, its a great technique. I think this combined with a few other profiles will give the one I an looking for. I guess sometimes I just try to over-analyze how to do things when the answer is right in front of me. Thanks again.

[Bob Winkler]

Over analyzing is also a problem I have- my wife claims it's paralysis by analysis- a symptom many engineers have.

My other problem is finding an excuse to buy another tool, instead of learning to use the ones I have much better.

Bob

[Charlie Plesums]

One suggestion... instead of using the usual cross cut or combination blade that cuts across the grain with explicit slices at the edge of the kerf (which leaves lines that have to be sanded out), try using a rip blade which leaves little or no line at the edge of the "kerf"

[Don Baer]

The latest issue of ShopNotes has an article on making cove molding using this tecknique. I read it the other day and thought it was very interesting. Now I'm seeing it used again here.

[Roger Myers]

Yep. Quick and easy and cheap. I do this for ogee bracket feet. If you will file a scraper to an even radius, you will save a ton of sanding time. And, it will work for many diff. coves by simply angling it to fit your profile.

You can also buy a scraper like a french curve (lee Valley) and use this to really make quick work of finishing the cove.

Bob - that bookcase is really coming along now! I made the coves in mine the same way, and used the scraper to smooth...almost no sanding required.

Also, for others making coves this method - there are 3 variables that you adjust to get the profile you want... angle of the stock relative to the blade; depth of cut of the final pass; and also, the bevel angle of the blade. There is a simple shareware ( I think) program out there called Cove Cutter, that helps in getting these settings.. a google search should be able to find it.

Keep at it..can't wait to see the finished pics

[Bob Winkler]

Thanks Roger. Bet your bookcase didn't take 9 months!:eek:

Believe it or not, I have completed several projects in the interim, and just wanted to give that beautiful maple from Lou Sansone my full, undivided attention. Plus, I procrastinated because I was terrified of the glue-up due to the number and size of the pieces. I even used epoxy so that I had a longer working time.

It also took awhile to figure out how to do the back, given the size of my wood. I ended up with 3 solid birdseye maple panels.

Hope I'm on the home stretch now. ;)

Bob