Router table outfeed drift/snipe

[David Ragan]

Last weekend, I was routing some trim on the table, and observed that at times, the piece would drift into the bit.....

My set up was an ordinary vertical 1/2" bit to get a profile, bit in the fence, going uphill, right to left:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ZT3DG0ZQL.jpg

As I ran more stock through the setup, it occurred to me that while the top of the trim piece was fully supported by the outfeed fence, the bottom part of the piece, from which most of the wood was removed, was not supported, and therefore, occasionally drifted barely into the bit; this resulted in an ugly scallop.

I took a lot of time, maybe too much, to be sure the pieces were straight-45" x2, and 75"x2.

My thinking is that if I put a small piece of UHMW on the outfeed fence, in the hollow, just enough to prevent drift into the fence, this will fix it. Of course, this small piece getting sucked into the vac is not an option:eek:

Maybe there is some fundamental error I am making?

As always, thanks, David

[Rick Potter]

Use a zero clearance fence, or face the whole fence with a disposable clamp on.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, this is what you do for a shaper, don't know if you can do that for your router table?
325035

If not, attach a continuous wood fence instead of the split fence on your router table. Obviously you need to make a cutout for the bit.............Regards, Rod.

[Lee Schierer]

I would recommend a strip of wood attached to your out feed fence that supports the bottom of your piece. This strip should be equal in height to the amount of material being removed by your cut. Attach it to your fence with double sided tape. This will keep your piece from creeping in at the bottom.

[David Ragan]

I would recommend a strip of wood attached to your out feed fence that supports the bottom of your piece. This strip should be equal in height to the amount of material being removed by your cut. Attach it to your fence with double sided tape. This will keep your piece from creeping in at the bottom.

Yes, that is about what I thought.

Then, I it occurred to me to make something that would be infinitely adjustable....kind of another Rube Goldberg deal-my favorite. Bad idea.

Guess I'll just customize this one and move on.

One thing that did occur to me last night, was that I have to be sure to only put feed pressure against the fence on the infeed side only.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I would add a featherboard on the infeed side and ending at the bit opening in the fence. This should reduce any kickout during the main part of the cut. Only the end of the board for the distance between the center of the bit and the edge of the fence opening (where the featherboards stops) may be subject to snipe or kickout, due to the lack of support.

[pat warner]

This is the so called vertical panel bit.
Minimizing the dangers of a large diameter with the compromise
of a long flute. But, in my view, either design is too big
for a 110VAC router. This cutter should have been left in the shaper domain.
Notwithstanding, it is usually used with the work on edge (vertically).
With a 6"+ high fence you should have the work support you need no
matter how much you waste. I would not take much more
than 3/32"/pass; this is a very power hungry cutter, however.

[Rick Potter]

Pat,

Curious to know if you have any more books in the works?

[pat warner]

Will probably get the shaft for this, but:
Never again for a publisher, doing my own PDF's, however.

[Davis Young]

Besides Anthony's suggestion of featherboarding the infeed, I would add a featherboard to the outfeed, but raised so that it is engaging the stock where it is still making full contact with the outfeed fence. Hopefully that will prevent the stock from twisting into the bit and overrouting.