Questions

[Jason Morgan]

These should probably go in separate threads, but I will ask them here together. They are both related to finishes(ing).

First - I am building a bed and noticed that I have a spot with some planer marks. I didnt see these until I had already put a coat of danish oil on (that is how I saw it). Can/should I sand this out and re-oil or am I just asking for trouble.

Second - I would like to get into spraying finishes, and I am seeking advice on equipment and brands of finish. I am thinking HVLP, but conversion guns are an option too (arent they?). I want somthing that will spray paint and clear finishes (pre-cat lacquers and such), but something that wont leave me "equipment limited" in 3 months. (also something that won't break the bank)

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

[Jim Becker]

The good news is that because you only used oil, you can likely fix your problem with the planer marks. You may want to try using a scraper first, rather than sanding. It's great for taking out tool marks like this and leaves a silky smooth surface in most cases. Then reoil, let it cure and proceed with any top coat you may want to use.

HVLP conversion guns are a very good choice, IMHO, for folks wanting a nice gun at a reasonable price. (The Wagner (http://sawsndust.com/r-wagnerhvlp.htm) I use costs $129) You do need a reasonable size compressor to use a spray gun...20 gallon is the minimum I'd suggest with 30 gallon being a better target for a small compressor. Turbines HVLP systems do a great job, but you shouldn't buy anything less than a three stage unit if you want something that will perform well over time with a greater variety of finishes. Unfortunately, that also ratchets up the cost. If you already have a capable compressor, than the conversion gun is a good option. If you don't it still may be, depending on the gun and compressor you choose vs the cost of a good turbine system.

[Jason Morgan]

Thanks Jim! I was hoping you would chime in. You sound like you know a lot about spray finishes. I was thinking the compressor and conversion gun route since I can use the compressor for nailers and such. The first project I want to try is spraying white paint on MDF childrens furniture. I will need some practice, and these pieces would be good to start with as they are just simple boxes that will stack up for toy storage, book, etc. Could you recommend some brands. Something that is forgiving, but will stand up to child use.

Thanks again.

[Bill Arnold]

... The first project I want to try is spraying white paint on MDF childrens furniture. ... Could you recommend some brands. Something that is forgiving, but will stand up to child use. ... Jason,

I'm still in the process of learning how to use different types of finishes as well, but I wanted to jump in with an alternative to "paint". I'm building some simple exercise boards for one of my doctors -- made them with MDF and he loves the prototype. I'm going to buy the finish today and decided on a pigmented lacquer. I had the opportunity to spray some of the finish when I attended an M.L. Campbell seminar earlier this year and it was great! It flows out well and dries in minutes. I had looked at using "paint", but the drying and curing times are unacceptable.

I decided to use a pigmented NC lacquer on the exercise boards because of cost and the way they will be used. For children's furniture, you might consider a pre-catalyzed pigmented lacquer for its toughness.

With any lacquer, you need to be cautious in spraying, of course. In my case, I can simply setup in my driveway and go for it. Living in Florida has its advantages!

Regards,

[Jim Becker]

Lacquer is a very nice finishing product, but I'll once again emphasize caution, especially for the casual hobbiest. NC Lacquer is one thing, but pre-cats are considerably more nasty. Please be careful if you choose to use them (they must be sprayed) and if you can do as Bill does and spray outdoors, so much the better. Never spray these in your home; the fumes are both explosive and can be a danger to people and pets.

[Phil Phelps]

I've posted this method twenty times, at least, here and elsewhere. If you want a nice finish, you'll have to fill the pours in MDF. Spraying isn't practical. Spray is a mist that doesn't penetrate. I float the MDF with joint cememt. The same you use for drywall. Use your air tool and blow off the surface. Trowel on the mud and trowel it off clean. What is left behind will dry to a haze that you sand off with 220 grit. You can then prime your surface with Bin, pigmented shellac or Benjamin Moore oil base underbody. The shellac dries very fast but doesn't build as fast as the alkyd underbody. And, the underbody dries very fast. I put two coats on in one day. Pigmented shellac dries in about thirty minutes, but dries hard overnight. MH Campbell is a great lacquer, if you use lacquer. And, you can use lacquer over the shellac or the alkyd underbody. The underbody should be used, for certain, if you use an alkyd finish. By using the mud float method, you'll fill the pours in two thirds the time it would take to build a paint and sand. I've done this for years with fantastic success. Incidentally, a good HVLP conversion is a great investment. Make sure you have a compressor large enough to run it. And, do your investigation at a real paint store that sells spray equipment. You get what you pay for, I guarantee.