What to use to prevent corrosion

[Izzy Camire]

Hi Folks,
I'd like to know what corrosion preventative everyone is using.
My shop is attached to my dirt floor pole barn. It has a 6 foot door way that currently does not have door. I will build the doors this winter. The room is insulated and the walls and ceiling sheathed. I recently grabbed a new Grizzly jointer and once I got the oil off the tables I applied 2 coats of Boeshield followed by 3 coats of bowling alley wax. Last week it was cool and we had rain then the temperature came up. Everything ended up covered with condensation bigtime. The jointer tables are now somewhat rusty. I am quite disappointed given the treatment I had applied.
For the application of Boeshield I put it on let it stand for a while and wiped it off. I had found not wiping it leaves a sticky film.

So what does everyone else use that is effective? I am looking for ideas.
Izzy

[Allan Speers]

Izzy, I'm actually a fan of Boeshield, but I don't wipe it off. I let it fully dry, then on "exposed" areas I just buff it out. - That residue is mostly wax. I even have used it as a "finish on some of my wooden planes! (It looks and feels great once fully dry.)

But where I need something really thin and "not there" I've had good success with this:
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-03007-Mult...words=crc+3.36 (http://www.amazon.com/CRC-03007-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Corrosion/dp/B0013J1U60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1431376699&sr=8-2&keywords=crc+3.36) - It drys fully in a few hours, and seems to last a long time.

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Other stuff I've seen recommended, but haven't personally tried:


Bostik GlideCote

CorrosionX (An electrolyte displacement formula, which actually short-circuits the rusting process ! It was developed for the military & Nasa, and is also used by the aeronautical industry. Someday I GOTTA' try this stuff.
www.corrosionx.com

This company also has two interesting inhibitor products, in addition to an "EvapoRust type of concentrate: http://rustdepot.com/default.htm
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## NOTE: Whatever you use, an important step is to start with as clean a surface as possible. Experts recommend blasting with walnut shells, but short of that, something like a citrus-based stripper is recommended. You don't want any contamonants under your coating, or its effectiveness can be severely compromised. (Probably why you had a bad experience with Boeshield.)

[David Gutierrez]

Plus 1 on the CRC. my tools are in the garage and this works well if reapplied every 2 or 3 months.

[Izzy Camire]

Ok thanks guys. Maybe I should try Boeshield again and let it dry without wiping.
I do have Corrsion X I use in the bores of rifles I'll have to check that too.

[Alan Bienlein]

There is a guy on youtube John Hienz if I remember correctly who uses water based poly. He puts it on an immediately wipes it off. He just did a recent video where at the end he is running a test between bare metal, the water base poly and wax. He lays a paper towel on it soaked in water and re wets it every day. After seven days not a sign of rust from where the poly is at.

[Craig Hoehn]

I've tried boshield and WD-40 but the best I've used so far is "protectool wax" http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70854&cat=1,43456. Somewhat expensive and takes a bit longer to apply but it sure lasts a long time.

[Rick Potter]

If your condensation problem is that bad, I would consider throwing old blankets or towels over the machines, and keeping hand tools in a cabinet, in addition to keeping them waxed.

[Garth Almgren]

Or some of those HTC machine covers. They don't trap the moisture and have magnets sown in the corners to keep them in place.

[Robert Engel]

Don't use wax. I can tell you from experience t will still rust underneath it because when the metal cools water will condense under the wax.
I waxed my planer one time and after a month it was rusted worse than ever.

I have found that covering the beds with an old sheet or towel topped with a piece of wood can help.

If your shop is insulated you'll be fine. When you get those doors on your problems with this will be much less.
My shop is not insulated and even keeping it closed up at night helps a lot with this problem.

[Izzy Camire]

I've tried boshield and WD-40 but the best I've used so far is "protectool wax" http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70854&cat=1,43456. Somewhat expensive and takes a bit longer to apply but it sure lasts a long time.

Hmm I have some Renaissance wax which is also micro-crystalline maybe I should try that.

[Izzy Camire]

If your condensation problem is that bad, I would consider throwing old blankets or towels over the machines, and keeping hand tools in a cabinet, in addition to keeping them waxed.

I have found that using something like blankets or towels will trap moisture and make it worse.
I have VCI plastic bags on the table saw and they work well. Didn't have enough for the jointer. I need to try and get more of these once I get it waxed again.

[Izzy Camire]

Don't use wax. I can tell you from experience t will still rust underneath it because when the metal cools water will condense under the wax.
I waxed my planer one time and after a month it was rusted worse than ever.

I have found that covering the beds with an old sheet or towel topped with a piece of wood can help.

If your shop is insulated you'll be fine. When you get those doors on your problems with this will be much less.
My shop is not insulated and even keeping it closed up at night helps a lot with this problem.

Never considered moisture would get under the wax but now that you say that could certainly be what happened. I agree once the doors are built this winter my problems will be pretty much gone.

[Tom Deutsch]

What about the product called Fluid Film? It's basically lanolin. I was thinking of trying that since I had noticed that wool blankets (you can get some big thick stinky mil surp ones for cheap online) seem to prevent rust on items in my barn.

[Peter Aeschliman]

You could make some cut outs from magnetic sheeting. I did this in my shop before I insulated it and it solved my rust problem when Boeshield and wax did not.

Remember that the rust is happening due to big temperature changes. Your machines hold the cold temperature much longer than the air. When the air heats up, it can hold more moisture. When the warm moist air touches the cold cast iron, it quickly drops temp and loses its ability to hold as much moisture. Hence condensation.

When my shop was uninsulated, rust was a constant frustration. When I insulated it, I never had rust again... even without wax. I only heat my shop while I'm using it (one day per weekend usually). So it's all about slowing down the temperature swings. Without dealing with the root cause, I don't think you're going to terribly pleased with any topical solutions... I tried a bunch of them with no luck.

That said, I didn't try applying actual finish like Alan mentions... so maybe that's worth looking into?

[Tom Deutsch]

Peter - what is the connection between cut outs of magnetic sheeting and temperature control?

[Izzy Camire]

What about the product called Fluid Film? It's basically lanolin. I was thinking of trying that since I had noticed that wool blankets (you can get some big thick stinky mil surp ones for cheap online) seem to prevent rust on items in my barn.

I use Fluid Film all the time on equipment and such. Once applied it remains pretty gooee so it would not work on a wood working machine. Great stuff had the underside of the cars sprayed with that too.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Peter - what is the connection between cut outs of magnetic sheeting and temperature control?

Sorry, I didn't write that very clearly at all! They were two totally separate thoughts.

I think the magnetic sheeting was effective in lieu of temp control because it simply created a physical barrier between the cold air and the warmer cast iron. So the condensation would occur on the magnetic sheeting rather than the cast iron.

Theoretically that's what topical solutions try to accomplish but I just never had much success with them.