Allan Speers
11-02-2015, 2:06 AM
Too many choices: I'm hoping someone can point me to an already-existing tutorial that both goes into detail, and that I can trust. I haven't been able to find what I need on my own, with any feeling of confidence. Here's the deal:
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This year I bought my first stationary planer. an early 80's Powermatic PM100 12". It did NOT come with the optional knife-jig that rides on top. The knives are a little dull and have a few very slight nicks. It was my intention to retrofit a shelix head, so I wasn't worried about the knives. With a shelix head, you don't even have to worry about setting the height, you just use a torque wrench to get things even.
Sadly, I can no longer afford the Shelix head & bearings (about $1,000) but I need to get this machine working, and I have a LOT of lumber skip-plane.
Obviously I have 2 different needs: Sharpening, and height adjustment. My main concern is the height, as I can get retrofit M2 knives on Ebay for less than $50. - But I have NO IDEA how to do this. I've been searching, and have seen a bunch of videos plus a bunch of products, but there seems to be many different (sometimes conflicting) ideas on the subject.
As I said at the start, can someone point a complete newb to a good website or video that shows a system they believe in? I'd prefer something on the PM100 of course, but ANYTHING would help. - Also something that shows how to make my own jig, if I need one.
Thanks.
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FWIW, it seems to me that the Infinity depth setting jigs would probably work well, assuming I know the depth that I want:
http://www.infinitytools.com/Planer-Jointer-Knife-Setting-Jig-For-Full-Size-Planers-Pair/productinfo/PKJ%2D201/
Any opinion on these?
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-but for sharpening, I have yet to see a "home shop" system that fills me with confidence.
I don't like the idea of grinding the knives while still in the head, as surely that would change the height a little. Yes? So... why not remove them, do it right, and then also have a chance to clean & re-lube the slots & gibs. No?
Another option for me would be to get the Tormek planer knife attachment, as I have their base unit hooked up to a CBN wheel. However, that wheel is only 180 grit. Maybe I could use that for removing knicks and setting the correct bevel, then hone at 400 - 600 with one of those "while installed in the head" contraptions? (And then maybe re-check the depth, to be safe?)
- but I still don't feel good about those contraptions, as the bevel angle could end up slghtly off. No?
---------------------------
This year I bought my first stationary planer. an early 80's Powermatic PM100 12". It did NOT come with the optional knife-jig that rides on top. The knives are a little dull and have a few very slight nicks. It was my intention to retrofit a shelix head, so I wasn't worried about the knives. With a shelix head, you don't even have to worry about setting the height, you just use a torque wrench to get things even.
Sadly, I can no longer afford the Shelix head & bearings (about $1,000) but I need to get this machine working, and I have a LOT of lumber skip-plane.
Obviously I have 2 different needs: Sharpening, and height adjustment. My main concern is the height, as I can get retrofit M2 knives on Ebay for less than $50. - But I have NO IDEA how to do this. I've been searching, and have seen a bunch of videos plus a bunch of products, but there seems to be many different (sometimes conflicting) ideas on the subject.
As I said at the start, can someone point a complete newb to a good website or video that shows a system they believe in? I'd prefer something on the PM100 of course, but ANYTHING would help. - Also something that shows how to make my own jig, if I need one.
Thanks.
=======
FWIW, it seems to me that the Infinity depth setting jigs would probably work well, assuming I know the depth that I want:
http://www.infinitytools.com/Planer-Jointer-Knife-Setting-Jig-For-Full-Size-Planers-Pair/productinfo/PKJ%2D201/
Any opinion on these?
-----------------------------
-but for sharpening, I have yet to see a "home shop" system that fills me with confidence.
I don't like the idea of grinding the knives while still in the head, as surely that would change the height a little. Yes? So... why not remove them, do it right, and then also have a chance to clean & re-lube the slots & gibs. No?
Another option for me would be to get the Tormek planer knife attachment, as I have their base unit hooked up to a CBN wheel. However, that wheel is only 180 grit. Maybe I could use that for removing knicks and setting the correct bevel, then hone at 400 - 600 with one of those "while installed in the head" contraptions? (And then maybe re-check the depth, to be safe?)
- but I still don't feel good about those contraptions, as the bevel angle could end up slghtly off. No?