How to attach handle to tool

[Dave B West]

I noticed that my 1/2in biwl gouge is loose in the handle. I don't see any cracks in the wood handle, and it appears the glue failed. Is it reasonable to reuse this handle? If so, what to use to reaffix the gouge to the wood? I'm assuming an epoxy would work. Looking for advice thanks.

[Len Mullin]

Yes Dave, I do believe that epoxy would be your best choice.
Len

[Brice Rogers]

Dave, I've made over a dozen turning tools. I've never had to repair a tool (yet).

I suspect that if you use epoxy, that you are likely to have a reasonable solution. But I don't know what your tool handle looks like or it's specific mode of failure. Maybe it is salvageable and maybe not.

But turning a new tool handle is not only easy, it is fun. My own tool handles look much nicer that they purchased ones. Some look like fancy pool cues.

[Brice Rogers]

Dave,
By the way, when I'm making a new tool, I usually make the "tang" round/cylindrical and put rings around it to help lock it in place. I also put a lengthwise slot for the excess epoxy to squeeze out. If you have a fairly tight fit and don't either have a small hole at the bottom or a lengthwise slot, you end up with a piston and something equivalent to hydraulic lock. You push it in and it tries to pop back out. I make the amount of insertion into the handle is typically 2-1/2 or 3 inches.

[Dave B West]

Thanks guys. I will give epoxy a try.

Brice, it is a hurricane bowl gouge with factory handle. Nothing special. Turning a new handle sounds like fun. Something I was thinking of doing when I need to replace current tools, but maybe the time is now.

[Brice Rogers]

If you turn a new handle, it is a good idea to strengthen the joint by putting on a ferrule where the tool tang goes into the wood. If you cannot re-use the old ferrule, then plan on using a copper pipe fitting (like a nipple/coupler or just a short length of the pipe). They polish up really nicely, especially with rouge. Give them a spray of urethane to keep them sparkling. They should fit fairly tightly - a tap-on operation. It doesn't hurt to squirt on a bit of epoxy between the ferrule and wood. A wrap of painters tape on the outside of the ferrule will keep the epoxy off of the copper while you are tapping it into position and as some of the epoxy squeezes out.

I think that you will be pleased with the results of your effort.

[david privett]

I had a new 1/2 inch bow gouge that did get loose, I called the manf. and they said that sometimes this happens due to wood not always being predictable on shrinkage. They said to ruff up gouge tang on wire wheel and use a 24 hr. epoxy ( they said 24 is usually stronger than a fast cure) Place tool in something that can compress tang into handle (after you place epoxy in handle hole, air is going to be forced out by adhesive and I used bearing press) and leave till next day. and when I made a pointed parting tool I used a piece of galvanized steel pipe for the ring if you go that route.

[Reed Gray]

For me, I think it would depend on how loose it is. I have had problems with ferules falling off in the summer, or 2 years ago when I went to the Symposium in Phoenix. I don't think I have had the gouges get loose. In the winter here in the NW, the wood swells back up and looseness is gone. For sure, you don't want it to fall out in use. I have epoxied similar things into round holes, and have had the epoxy make a gasket with air trapped inside. I now put the epoxy down one side, and some in the bottom, then push the tool in, and when it gets near the bottom, start spinning it around. That generally works. I need to try out some of the collet chucks that Brent English, of Robust tools is selling. Then, I wouldn't run into things getting loose.

robo hippy