MT Drill Chuck

[Clay Fails]

I'm looking for a recommendation for a drill chuck for my lathe. It needs to be Morse Taper 2, compatible with headstock or tail stock. I've seen many in the $40 range (Penn State Ind., Woodstock), then a few in the $100 range (Grizzly, South Bend).

Is runout pretty much the same with all these, or are the pricier units better in that regard?

[Bruce Pratt]

Had good experience with the $35-$40 Jacobs chucks. If you are going to use large Forstner bits (>1 1/2 "), make sure to get a keyed chuck, as it is difficult to keep the larger bits from slipping with the hand-tightened chucks.

[Aaron Craven]

I can't really speak to how it compares with other brands, but I just picked up the Harbor Freight chuck for $15. I haven't used it for much, but it worked well making a pepper mill recently (with a 1" forstner bit and 4" extension).

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-mt2-mini-lathe-drill-chuck-42340.html

[David Walser]

I cannot answer the question of whether the cheaper drill chucks have more run out than do the more expensive. I'm responding to offer two suggestions: First, add to your requirements that the drill chuck be tapped for a draw bar. You don't always want or need a draw bar when using a drill chuck, but there are times when you do (should) want one. Second, add to your search the machinist supply houses such as Little Machine Shop. http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_search.php?critFast=jacobs&B1=Product+Search

[Scott Hackler]

I bought and use the Harbor Freight Jacobs drill chuck and in several years worth of drilling, I haven't found a reason to not recommend it. Works well and no problem with runout.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I would recommend make sure the one you buy supports using a drawbar. Drawbars come in handy if you want to use drill chuck in your headstock to turn something.

[Dan Masshardt]

I have one I believe from psi. Keyless. Oh how I love keyless. No problems ever with loosening.

You'd have to pay me a good bit of money to get me to use a keyed chuck.

[Jon Nuckles]

I have an inexpensive keyless from Woodcraft, IIRC, and it slips often enough with a forstner bit that I wish I had gotten a keyed chuck.

[David Walser]

I have an inexpensive keyless from Woodcraft, IIRC, and it slips often enough with a forstner bit that I wish I had gotten a keyed chuck.

For Forstner bits, I've started using a 3/8" MT collet in the tailstock. It holds securely and is more accurate than a drill chuck.

[Dan Masshardt]

For Forstner bits, I've started using a 3/8" MT collet in the tailstock. It holds securely and is more accurate than a drill chuck.

Well there's an interesting idea.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

For Forstner bits, I've started using a 3/8" MT collet in the tailstock. It holds securely and is more accurate than a drill chuck.

This is indeed an intersting and awesome idea. However, the Forstners I have are hex keyed, and I don't have slippage problems. BUT I would think that neither would a collet.... Thanks!.

I do have both the keyed and non-keyed chucks from PSI. They both work well, but I too, have nothing to compare them to. They are not as good as my Jacobs 5/8" on my drill press, but they work well enough, and cheap enough. I got the keyless after the keyed one since keys are such a pain. And I have a back up mini lathe. If you have a mini, the keyless is longer then the keyed, which may make a bit of difference on a mini....

[Ryan Baker]

I think pretty much any of the commonly mentioned chucks will do fine. I haven't done anything on a wood lathe where the amounts of runout involved would make any difference, and you really have to get into several-hundred dollar chucks before there is a big difference in runout. Most runout problems are the result of the arbor more than the chuck anyway. If you have runout problems, check out the arbor and make sure it is properly fit and mounted.

I do generally prefer keyed chucks, particularly for larger bits. They do hold much better. Keyless is fine for the smaller stuff. With either one, be careful not to let the taper spin in the tailstock.

I do like the idea of using a collet. I don't have any MT2 collets laying around, but it might be worth looking for some. (Hex collets are common in other types such as 5C, but I don't think I have ever seen a MT2 one.) Taper shank drills are another option too, but aren't normally found in the Forstner-type sizes.

[Thomas Canfield]

You did not mention the size of your lathe. A mini/midi lathe can better use a smaller inexpensive (3/8" or 1/2" keyed chuck) that is shorter than a 5/8" better quality keyless chuck that works well on larger lathe. I have both and find both have their place. There is about 4"difference in length and also considerable cost and weight difference.

[Clay Fails]

Thanks to all for the responses. I should have clarified my lathe: I've ordered a Robust American Beauty which will (hopefully) be arriving before Christmas! So the chuck will be used in the AB.

[Joe Bradshaw]

Stealth gloat!