Epoxy to Saturate Soft Spalted Maple for Table Top

[Stew Hagerty]

Hey there everyone, I hope your week is going well.

I have some nice heavily spalted maple that I plan on using for a table top. It's very soft but beautiful, which is why I want to use it as a tabletop. I have seen videos that show the use of an epoxy to soak into the soft fibers. I guess the softer it is, the more it penetrates which is perfect. My problem is that the videos I have seen them do it in fail to mention what epoxy they are using. It is obviously much thinner than the epoxy I have on hand that I use for repairs & such. And it needs to be in order to be able to pour it on and squeegee it all over and have it soak deep down into the fibers. I have no doubt that many of you have used these products, and so once again I ask for some of your wisdom & experience to aid me in becoming a better woodworker.

[Dan Duperron]

Years ago I used that stuff to stabilize some rotted window sills. I think it was called restoration epoxy or something like that. I'm certain I bought it at HD, but that was 20yr ago.

It was in no way "squeegeeable", it was thin as water. I just brushed it on with a disposable paint brush until no more would soak in, and it cured hard as rock.


I imagine if you look around the home center you will fond something. Or walk into a real paint store and ask, they will certainly know.

[Tom M King]

Is what you're thinking of Git-Rot?

[Raymond Fries]

Abatron makes a liquid 2 part epoxy that should work. It is very thin. I bought some and repaired windows and never used it all. I goes pretty far.

[John Kananis]

I've seen this done wiht Gym-Seal (shudder)...

[mark kosse]

I'm sure there must be an epoxy out there that will work. Minwax used to make stuff called wood restorer but I don't know if they still do. A mixture of plexiglass and acetone will stabilize or harden wood too. Melt as much plexiglass in the acetone as you can.

[Jim Belair]

Cold Cure is a very thin, penetrating type epoxy. I've used it in boat building and to stabilize burls. Lee Valley sells it. Oh, and free shipping too.

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[Andrew Hughes]

I've used system three mirror coat, it's a decent product that can be used indoors.It does take a longtime to cure so a dust free area is a must.Be prepared for at least three coats.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

US Composites has good quality epoxy at much better prices than the major brands like System 3 and West System.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I found out about this product from boat builders; seems that they love the stuff

http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/

I used this on :



oak bench that would be ignored outside.
Pine swing seat
Exterior trim around an entry door and a garage door that was kind of punky


Very happy with the product, but kind of pricey.

Before the purchase, I followed and read many of their links... things like these

http://www.smithandcompany.org/glulam.html
http://www.woodrestoration.com/woodrestoration01.pdf

Some years back, say 9 years, I used a different product that I found at Home Depot. I do not remember the name, but I used it on a door. 8 years later that door is doing just fine. I also used some artificial wood filler, I don't remember what kind. The door bottom was a total loss, so I cut it off and used dowels (1/2" I think) to pin a new bottom in place.

[Clay Parrish]

I wonder if you would have better results if you put the wood in a plastic bag and attached it to a vacuum?

[Jim Belair]

I wonder if you would have better results if you put the wood in a plastic bag and attached it to a vacuum?


Warming the wood helps, including immediately after the epoxy has been applied, with a hair dryer. You can see the air bubbles coming from the wood through the epoxy. Don't leave it too long though or the epoxy will start to set up and trap the bubbles. Do a test to get a feel for your epoxy.

[Kevin Harris]

I've used this product on spalted maple and like the results http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/wood-repair/pc-petrifier.php

[Stew Hagerty]

Thanks everybody, I'll look into your suggestions and let you know what I decide.

[Ron Kellison]

This is a great product! I've used it to build boats and also to seal rotting exterior window frames before filling the rotten cavities. Not cheap but definitely worth the price.


Cold Cure is a very thin, penetrating type epoxy. I've used it in boat building and to stabilize burls. Lee Valley sells it. Oh, and free shipping too.

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[Gary Herrmann]

When I turn spalted maple, I hose it with CA.

[Dave Gardner]

What luck have people had with mixed epoxy dissolved in alcohol? A test I did turned out fine so far (and alcohol is cheaper than epoxy).

[Art Mann]

What luck have people had with t that epoxy dissolved in alcohol? A test I did turned out fine so far (and alcohol is cheaper than epoxy).

The information I have read on the major epoxy manufacturer's websites says that thinning with acetone will compromise strength to a large degree. I'm not sure mixed epoxy is even soluble in methyl or ethyl alcohol. Acetone is indeed cheaper than epoxy but all you are doing is diluting the stuff that provides adhesion and strength with stuff that doesn't. I have seen epoxy successfully used with acetone several times where great strength isn't required but I prefer a material specifically made for the purpose.

[Stew Hagerty]

When I turn spalted maple, I hose it with CA.


I've used CA on small defects and such before too Gary. But I would need a WHOLE LOT of those little bottles to do this job! I guess I should have mentioned this earlier. I have two 5/4 boards 5 to 6 inches wide. One is 5” long and the other is nearly 8” which is why I am looking at epoxies and other hardeners that come in larger quantities.

[Stew Hagerty]

Hey, has anybody used this? It's water based, so it has minimal fumes.

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[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have not used this particular product... I have used a two part epoxy designed for this (as I already posted) and I have used the MinWax product. Most people seem to like the PC-Petrifier product, but, in the reviews that I have seen, tests against the MinWax product they prefer MinWax. Why? Because it dries harder and they felt that it painted better. I know you do not intend to pain, or you would just purchase new wood (since I don't think you are repairing, just getting wood ready to use).

Other reviews say similar things about this product. Specifically that it is not as hard as expected, and some complain that it flakes off or crumbles. I can't help but wonder if the crumbling is related to the material they hardened, but who knows. With all that said, the reviews generally are happy with the product with the caveats stated above. The primary advantage seems to be the price.

[Stew Hagerty]

I have not used this particular product... I have used a two part epoxy designed for this (as I already posted) and I have used the MinWax product. Most people seem to like the PC-Petrifier product, but, in the reviews that I have seen, tests against the MinWax product they prefer MinWax. Why? Because it dries harder and they felt that it painted better. I know you do not intend to pain, or you would just purchase new wood (since I don't think you are repairing, just getting wood ready to use).

Other reviews say similar things about this product. Specifically that it is not as hard as expected, and some complain that it flakes off or crumbles. I can't help but wonder if the crumbling is related to the material they hardened, but who knows. With all that said, the reviews generally are happy with the product with the caveats stated above. The primary advantage seems to be the price.


Thanks Andy,

Youre right, I have two beautifully spalted maple boards that I want to use to make a couple of Christmas presents. The wood is not the least bit crumbly but, as is the case with spalted wood, there are some soft spots. I have a number of health problems. In fact I'm a wheelchair woodworker. Strong odors, including solvent odors, really irritate me. When I read up on the MinWax Product, it says that it can offgas fumes for some time. Epoxy should not have that problem, but it is considerably more expensive. Hmmm...

[Jim Belair]

Hey, has anybody used this? It's water based, so it has minimal fumes.

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I used it on a deck that was starting to deteriorate. It helped stabilize the wood a bit but in no way is in the same class as a good penetrating epoxy.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Youre right, I have two beautifully spalted maple boards that I want to use to make a couple of Christmas presents. The wood is not the least bit crumbly but, as is the case with spalted wood, there are some soft spots. I have a number of health problems. In fact I'm a wheelchair woodworker. Strong odors, including solvent odors, really irritate me. When I read up on the MinWax Product, it says that it can offgas fumes for some time. Epoxy should not have that problem, but it is considerably more expensive. Hmmm...

I understand how that works... I am adverse to stinky things.... When I used the epoxy and the minwax, I worked outside in a garage. Given your application it will likely be just fine, but, as always, do a test first!