Connecting angled 2x4's

[Darrin Davis]

I'm trying to make a lower back leg and a back all one piece for an outdoor chair made of 2x4's. As you can see in the picture the 2x4's are cut at 7.5 degrees to make a 15 degree back lean. My question is what would be the best way to connect the 2 pieces to make one back piece. Thanks!
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[pat warner]

Splines for starters, long mending plates for insurance.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Buy a 2 x 6 or 2 x 8, and start over.

[Jeff Monson]

Perfect scenario for a Domino XL. If you don't have one, like me, then hardwood tenons, or hardwood dowels would be my next choice.

[Rod Sheridan]

Darren, the best method is to get a larger piece of lumber and band saw or jig saw the leg out of it in one piece.........Regards, Rod.

[Jeff Monson]

Darren, the best method is to get a larger piece of lumber and band saw or jig saw the leg out of it in one piece.........Regards, Rod.

Agree, but the way he has them oriented I don't think that would work unless he starts with 4x4 material?

[Rod Sheridan]

Agree, but the way he has them oriented I don't think that would work unless he starts with 4x4 material?

True, he needs to change his design and his method.........Rod.

[Steve Peterson]

One option is to stand the 2x4 on its side and make a long 15 degree cut on the bandsaw. Not a 15 degree bevel, but a true 15 degree angle. The cut length will be almost 6" long. Flip it over and attach the cut surface to the back of the other piece. There will be lots of surface area to glue and screw the 2 pieces together.

Steve

[Darrin Davis]

That's how I've done it before. Just wondering if anyone had a better way.

One option is to stand the 2x4 on its side and make a long 15 degree cut on the bandsaw. Not a 15 degree bevel, but a true 15 degree angle. The cut length will be almost 6" long. Flip it over and attach the cut surface to the back of the other piece. There will be lots of surface area to glue and screw the 2 pieces together.

Steve

[paul cottingham]

Steam bend the board, if you can. Pine doesn't stem bend all that well, but if you are carefull.....

Otherwise bandsaw. Follow grain if possible, and i wouldn't trust it all that much, as there will be weak spots at the change in direction.

[Pat Barry]

I think strength is very important for this joint, therefore I would advocate doing a bridle joint wherein you could create a whole lot of glue surface area for maximized strength. You could do this also with splines. I would try for two or three splines per joint

[Mike Schuch]

For strength you want a large gluing surface area. I would do it with a saddle joint. Extend the bottom piece so that the inner one third goes all the way through the top piece. Likewise extend the two outer thirds of the top piece the over the bottom piece. I would probably cut the inner third out of the top piece using a tennoning jig on the table saw with a dado blade. To remove the outside thirds of the bottom piece I would probably use the table saw, dado blade and a sled to clamp the piece to at the appropriate 15 degree angle. After they are glued together the resulting piece should be stronger than one being cut out of a single piece of wood.

[paul cottingham]

Bridle joint (pinned) is an excellent idea. Wish I'd suggested it.

[Robert Engel]

Cut it out of a 4x4.

[paul cottingham]

I would seriously consider white oak, and steam bending it. It will be stronger than pine and last longer outside.