Drawer build

[Michael Cole]

After I finish the current project (http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/#), a medicine cabinet, I will start working on drawers for my cabinets that I built earlier. I will want to cut grooves for the bottoms with my router table. Would this be the correct bit to use?
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product...ers-and-arbors (http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/5019/slot-cutters-and-arbors)

[Jerry Miner]

Certainly one way to do it. Make sure you get an arbor as well as the cutter itself. You will end up with a 1/4" groove, which may (or may not) fit your drawer bottom material.

I find it easier to cut these grooves on the table saw, and adjust the groove width for a perfect fit to the actual drawer bottom material. Just my .02

[Mark W Pugh]

Since most plywood is undersized from it's stated thickness, look at one of these sets. http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Undersized-Plywood-Bit-Shank/dp/B000NJ7AZG/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1445510018&sr=1-3&keywords=undersized+plywood+router+bit

1/4 cutter will most likely leave you with a slightly loose bottom. When this has happened to me, I used hot glue on the underneath slot area to tighten up the bottoms.

[Jim Dwight]

I would also just use a straight bit. That allows the drawer pieces to be flat on the router table. An undersize bit may make sense too although I typically make drawer grooves a bit oversize because the sides and front/back are rarely perfectly aligned. I usually get simple router bits from MLCS woodworking based upon price/service/quality.

[Robert Engel]

I also think the TS is the best way:
1. Allows you to make perfectly fitting groove.
2. Making grooves prior to assembly makes installing bottom easier (no rounded corners).
3. Groove gives you the layout for bottom pins if doing DT's.

Some people like to route groove after assembly but I don't really get that.

As previously state a 6 mm slot cutter will be needed but even then you can't rely on uniform thickness of plywood sheet to sheet.
Plus its another expense for a one-use bit.

[Prashun Patel]

A table saw is faster, but will require resetting the fence one. Also, it's not appropriate if you require stopped grooves.

On the router table, your slot cutter would require running the pieces on edge, splitting the fence, and possibly making an auxiliary fence to support the piece above the wide cutter. And if the fit is too tight, you'll have to do a height adjustment which is marginally more difficult (unless you have a lift) than using a straight or (my choice) upcut spiral bit.

With the straight bit, the boards ride face down. It'd be easier and safer (for me) to bear down vertically to create a consistent depth groove. Adjustments in groove size will only require shimming or nudging the fence.

[Rod Sheridan]

After I finish the current project (http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/#), a medicine cabinet, I will start working on drawers for my cabinets that I built earlier. I will want to cut grooves for the bottoms with my router table. Would this be the correct bit to use?
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product...ers-and-arbors (http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/5019/slot-cutters-and-arbors)

Sure, that would work if you have 1/4" drawer bottom material.

Be aware that plywood in North America has been metric in thickness for decades, you'll either need metric bits. or use a smaller imperial bit and make the groove in two passes.

I normally use a shaper for grooving however the table saw is a great method as you can make a couple of passes to obtain a snug fit..........Regards, Rod.

[Bill McNiel]

I use a Freud stacked dado set with spacers from LV. Run test cust to get the width dead on, write down the combination for that specific plywood (don't be surprised at the differences between lots of the "same thickness plywood").

[Michael Cole]

Worked on a drawer today. Cut a groove in a test piece with the table saw. Took a while as I made a cut, moved the fence a little, made another cut, etc until I got the width I wanted. Then went ahead and did it on 4 pieces for a drawer and put the drawer together using my Domino. Now I just need to make 11 more and decide on a front for all of them.

[Bill Adamsen]

Sounds like you got it figured out.

I too use the tablesaw and are careful to match up the groove with a finger or dovetail on the front and back. Since, to Prashun's point, with a sawblade you'll have a groove showing through front and (with a captive bottom) back. You can plug those "holes" (an end grain wedge works nicely) or just cover with the drawer face, and assume no one sees the back of the drawer. With solid wood for the bottoms I cut off the bottom of the back just above the drawer bottom, and then the slots don't show. In that case, don't forget to omit the pin socket below the bottom on the back sides.

Apologies for the crude finish work shown in the photo ... it's a shop drawer which I do someday intend to finish.