Poly over waterlox?

[Matt Palumbo]

Hello:

I was finishing a counter for my bar with waterlox. I was trying to get a smooth finish and I hadn't applied wood fill to the butcher block oak before I stained it.
In another post I was told to keep applying the waterlox and it would eventually level out.
My issue now is that it looks like it got oxygenated since it turned to jelly.
They do not sell waterlox anywhere around here so I had to special order it.

Can I finish with poly over the waterlox now since I do have some on hand?

Thanks!
Matt

[John TenEyck]

It's not good to change horses mid stream.

John

[Matt Palumbo]

It's not good to change horses mid stream.

John

can I wet sand this coat off (after it dries) and leave it for two weeks until the new waterlox can come? Or should I leave it on and wet sand it off after I get it?

I should have said I started to use the waterlox and did not realize it had the jelly consistency until after I started spreading it on. So now there are chunks on the counter. I tried to wiped it off but it didn't all come off...

[John TenEyck]

You can do it either way, but it might be easier after a couple of weeks as it should be harder. But maybe it will never cure. In that case, it'll probably gum up your sandpaper no matter what. If so, a card scrapper may be your best option to get it off.

John

[Scott Holmes]

Wet sanding is for final rub out not for between coat sanding. DRY sand with 320 between coats. Use a flat block to get a flat surface...flat and smooth are not the same thing.

[Matt Palumbo]

Wet sanding is for final rub out not for between coat sanding. DRY sand with 320 between coats. Use a flat block to get a flat surface...flat and smooth are not the same thing.

So I can let this sit for a few weeks and then dry sand with 320?
So how can I achieve a smooth, still lake appearance?
Thanks!

[Prashun Patel]

It does not sound like you have built up enough coats for a 'still lake' effect.

I would not switch to poly because when built up, it will (to my eye) look like a still, plastic lake. I thoroughly believe it IS possible to rub out a poly finish to a high gloss, but it's a good deal of effort.

I would instead order more Waterlox, and wait for it.

I also have to special order it. Which one are you using? If you haven't ordered yet, then get the 'green' can, High gloss varnish. You can brush that one on for a quicker build. Also, that one stays glossier than the Original Sealer Finish.

A lot of people level, and rub out a finish for a mirror effect after the surface has cured. But Waterlox, if properly brushed, hasn't required it for me.

[Matt Palumbo]

It does not sound like you have built up enough coats for a 'still lake' effect.

I would not switch to poly because when built up, it will (to my eye) look like a still, plastic lake. I thoroughly believe it IS possible to rub out a poly finish to a high gloss, but it's a good deal of effort.

I would instead order more Waterlox, and wait for it.

I also have to special order it. Which one are you using? If you haven't ordered yet, then get the 'green' can, High gloss varnish. You can brush that one on for a quicker build. Also, that one stays glossier than the Original Sealer Finish.

A lot of people level, and rub out a finish for a mirror effect after the surface has cured. But Waterlox, if properly brushed, hasn't required it for me.


Thanks!
I really don't want the high gloss finish. I just wanted a smooth sheen. That is why I used the Original/Sealer Finish and not the Satin or gloss finish. I read the original finish cures to a semi gloss look...
I just read about a product call AquaCoat Clear grain Filler. it says it dryies clear and can be applied to sealer. Would it be possible to use this on top of the waterlox?