Drill chuck and lathe head stock 😖

[Joe Buesgen]

How can I prevent my drill chuck from moving out from my headstock after turning a wine stopper top and want to finish cutting and sanding the top end ? This is after parting off and moving the tail stock away.
thanks for any direction with this little concern!

[Dwight Rutherford]

Use a draw bar.http://www.sawmillcreek.org/webkit-fake-url://307edda0-4bef-4e0e-9417-dfaa8e2ebc7f/imagejpeghttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/webkit-fake-url://5aff5bd0-2598-49bc-b747-d724a5d68ff5/imagejpeg

[Dan Masshardt]

Drawbar will work.

I'd recommend getting a bottle stopper mandrel though.

If you have a 1x8 spindle the psi screw on one is very convenient.

[Geoff Whaling]

Bottle Stopper Mandrel is an excellent suggestion. Another option - abandon the Jacob's Chuck & use a collett chuck - http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/ER32_Page.pdf or http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/colletchuck.php Collett chucks open up many options to used standard bolts & screws as mandrels.

Much safer but more expensive than a Jacob's Chuck of course.

If you continue with Jacobs chuck please use a draw bar as "away" cuts while turning bottle stoppers without tail stock support will draw the MT2 out of the head stock spindle. You could continue on as you are, not recommended, but use tail stock support to almost the end then part the remaining live center nib with a supported cut using a detail gouge.

[Marvin Hasenak]

$9.95 bottle stopper chuck from PSI will be the cheapest and best way to solve your problem. They even throw in a drill bit with it.

[Edward Weingarden]

Ruth Niles sells a mandrel that can be mounted in a 4 jaw chuck.

[Joe Buesgen]

Thanks all!!!!!!!!

[Joe Buesgen]

Marvin, I got what you said from PSI but find when I drill my blank and mount it in the mandrel...the blank becomes lose and spins after little turning making it useless !! Have you found this and if so what have yo done to correct this? I called PSI and spoke with tech Tony and his response was oops yea we know about that and likely will not include the bit from now on!!!! Wow, what kinda business practice is that !?!?!?
looking forward to hearing from you and if you have a solution.
Thanks, Joe in Pa

[Joe Buesgen]

Dan, I got what you said from PSI but find when I drill my blank and mount it in the mandrel...the blank becomes lose and spins after little turning making it useless !! Have you found this and if so what have yo done to correct this? I called PSI and spoke with tech Tony and his response was oops yea we know about that and likely will not include the bit from now on!!!! Wow, what kinda business practice is that !?!?!?
looking forward to hearing from you and if you have a solution.
Thanks, Joe in Pa

[William C Rogers]

I haven't turned one in a while, from memory I used the Penn State chuck and drilled the hole (Minor diameter of the thread) and actually used a regular tap to thread the hole first. I don't remember any problems doing this. I think the instructions said to just thread it on the mandrel. I don't remember getting a drill and if I did I must not have used it. However it has been 4-5 years since I made one.

[Marvin Hasenak]

I sent you an email with instructions, so for everyone else this is my procedure in detail.


On soft wood I drop down a bit size, I am not at home but I believe the tap and die chart for 3/8" calls for a 5/16 bit. But for wood I use a 9/32, I drill the hole and drizzle a little CA glue around the inside of the hole. This strengthens the hole. After the CA has dried I tap the hole with a 3/8-16 tap, again I drizzle CA glue in to strengthen the wood threads. Wait for the CA to dry. I ret-tap the hole and turn it.

IMPORTANT, always make sure the CA glue is DRY, or you will glue the mandrel to the wood. Even getting it too hot while turning can reactivate the glue. If it happens, I just turn the blank to almost nothing and chip the wood off. And clean off my mandrel of the CA mess with acetone. A

An option that works sometimes to loosen a glued on blank is to turn up the speed and with a leather glove heat up the wood, DO NOT wear the glove, just hold it in your hand, SOMETIMES it will get the blank smoking hot and loosen the glue. It has to be a special blank for me to mess with this, 99% of the time it gets turned to nothing and I clean the threads with acetone.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

+1 to Marvins procedure. That is the same as I do.
Just wanted to add, use the tail stock with some reasonable pressure, and take light cuts. You cannot be aggressive when you're driving a blank with just some wood threads. I release the TS pressure ONLY when doing the final work at the tip of the stopper.