Powermatic 1150A Drill Press, Recent Purchaser with a couple questions

[Eric Bartlett]

Hello Everyone,

I stumbled across this website during my research of the Powermatic 1150 series drill presses, and was hoping someone here could help me out.
I recently acquired a Powermatic model 1150A. This drill lived quietly in a local University’s physics department. I bought it directly from the university for $250 after some negotiation; well, add another $10 on flowers to help smooth things over with the wife, so let’s call it $260 ;)

I have been researching these things like mad since this gem has fallen in my lap; the serial number reads 8315S053 which I believe makes this machine circa 1983.

I have read over the manual, but I was hoping I could get some advice on how to make sure the unit is tip top before I put it into use.. It runs smooth overall, it lets off a rattle noise here and there but I think that is fairly typical right?

I checked the run out with a shank in the chuck and its right at 0.001” at about 1 cm down from the chuck. The outside of the chuck itself is reading 0.0015” to 0.002”. It should be good enough for anything I use it for.

One problem I have immediately noticed is the quill lock is non-functional. I don’t want clamp down too tight, but when I make it hand tight the quill does not show any indication of locking in place. There is also a bolt directly under the quill lock, does this have to be tightened as well to lock the quill?

Additionally, the spring seems slightly weak to return. To give an example, if I lower the quill ½” and let the handle go, the quill does not fully return leaving a ¼” gap. If the quill is lowered 1” or more and the handle is let go, the quill will fully return appropriately. Should I attempt to tighten the spring?

I am beginning to fall in love with this drill press and I want to treat it right. I know the manual has recommendations regarding the type of grease and oils to use. The manual recommends Lubriplate for the spline; does anyone have recommendations for something I may be able to buy locally, any recommendations for the type of oil to use for the quill?

I am also interested in any general advice from people that have used this drill, such as certain things to keep an eye on, things that may need to be checked or tightened up ect..

Lastly, I am wondering if it is a good idea to replace the bearings to ensure long term functionality. Granted, it won’t see everyday use as a fixture in my garage, but I figured it might be a good idea to buy the parts that are going to wear out over time now while they are still available. What is your take on this line of thinking?

I am going to load some picture in hopes that some of you can give it a once over and bring anything to my attention that needs to be addressed.

Thanks!


Not the most graceful way to get it home:
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7296_zpskap8c42r.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7296_zpskap8c42r.jpg.html)


http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7297_zpsdr2eq1jb.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7297_zpsdr2eq1jb.jpg.html)


http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7298_zpsqlfrctxw.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7298_zpsqlfrctxw.jpg.html)


http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7301_zpsrnpyt1sh.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7301_zpsrnpyt1sh.jpg.html)


I am guessing the lower bolt on the motor mount is NOT supposed to be missing?
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7302_zpsxegone8e.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7302_zpsxegone8e.jpg.html)


I think this switch may be non-original equipment, I have not seen any online with this switch.
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7303_zpsxd7gnyxk.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7303_zpsxd7gnyxk.jpg.html)


http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7305_zpsk8umki99.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7305_zpsk8umki99.jpg.html)


http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7310_zpsmt3sh0sl.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7310_zpsmt3sh0sl.jpg.html)


http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7311_zpsdy64yltx.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7311_zpsdy64yltx.jpg.html)

Another missing bolt. Any idea what the size and thread for this is? It holds the top cover on. Both are missing.
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7320_zps2e3phuxy.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7320_zps2e3phuxy.jpg.html)

The bolt under the quill lock I spoke about above.
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7330_zpsuoi5q7he.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7330_zpsuoi5q7he.jpg.html)

Should this be greased?
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7336_zps4p0g9qam.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7336_zps4p0g9qam.jpg.html)

Should a silicone lubricant be used on the quill to preserve the rubber O-ring?
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n535/4runnerbuild/IMG_7338_zpshbd36s0j.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/4runnerbuild/media/IMG_7338_zpshbd36s0j.jpg.html).

[Kent A Bathurst]

The bolt under the quill lock is used to tighten the split head, as it wears and you get run-out on the quill. Doesn't take much to create enough friction to drag the quill to a stop - be cautious, but unafraid.

It has nothing to do with the quill lock. Which - yes - requires some muscle on my 1150A-VS. I am not beyond a slight tap with a small hammer, to be honest.

[John McClanahan]

Hi Eric,
Welcome to Sawmill Creek. Like Kent, I have the variable speed version. You won't be disapointmented with that drill press. And the price was right, too.

The quill spring is easy to tighten. There is an allen screw under the spring housing, in the head casting. Loosen it several turns and turn the spring housing 1 full turn in the direction that gives resistance, then tighten the set screw and try it. There is a flat spot in the spring housing that the set screw screws into, thats why it needs full turns.


John

The bearings are tough. I doubt they need replacing.

[Tom M King]

Sorry I can't answer your questions. Mine is a lot older than that-I think a 1956 model if I'm remembering correctly. I've never done anything to it but use it. It's about as quick to swap the belt on pulleys as it is to turn a crank. The lid stays up on mine most of the time.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Great Buy. Amazing to me why anyone would lay out near a grand for a new piece of ****.

[Matt Day]

Great Buy. Amazing to me why anyone would lay out near a grand for a new piece of ****.

Agreed! I recently got a '69 and love it.

[Eric Bartlett]

Well I couldn't wait so I did a little project tonight, yikes it is already midnight; funny how time flies when your in the shop. Welp, I'm sold. This DP is awesome, I hope it is the last DP I ever buy. My project tonight involved drilling holes of various diameters in a thick aluminum plate. I had to change the speed of the drill a few times. I can see how the variable speed would be nice in this regard, with that said, I find changing the belt on the 1150 far easier than my fathers old drill press which had three step cones. I don't strive to be terribly efficient in the shop anyway, it's my relaxation time so I think I will be happy with the drill as is.. Never hurts to keep an eye out for an old 3-phase motor for a VFD though ;)

Oh and Kent, you were correct, a little tap is all the quill locked needed to engage. What a nice feature, I already found an excuse to use it tonight.

Anyway, thank you for all of the input.

[Matt Day]

Consider adding an auxiliary table for woodworking applications. I finished mine a couple weeks ago and am happy with it. Only thing I need to figure out is that the handles are so darn long they easily hit the fence - 6" quill travel helps though.

I also suggest adding a table lift assist, whether that's a counterweight mechanism (google it for lots of examples) or the quick and easy way like I did, a $20 HF trailer Jack (idea found online).

[Kent A Bathurst]

... a little tap is all the quill locked needed to engage. What a nice feature, I already found an excuse to use it tonight.


I find it essential.

Lower the bit to touch the target dead-on, throw the quill lock to hold the bit in contact with the target, then align and lock down the fence - the workpiece still rotates as needed - and clamp the workpiece.

You will never drill a hole off-target this way.

[Eric Bartlett]

Does anyone know what the original MSRP on these units were?

[Tom M King]

No idea on msrp, but they have absolutely the best depth stop for staying where you set it, and easiest to adjust too. You might not have gotten to that yet.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Does anyone know what the original MSRP on these units were?

Originally hundreds in the forties. Prolly over three grand in the eighties.