miter coping

[Chris Payne]

Has anyone out there ever bought one of those coping jigs to cut crown moulding. I am getting ready to install some and I am sorta thinking about buying one do they work as good as they say?

[George Bokros]

I had some crown installed in my two story foyer last year (I don't do high ladders). The carpenter used one. Worked pretty good for him. He Also used a Dremmel to relieve some additional stock on the back. Rich Engelhardt is going to be using one soon and I plan to watch him and try my hand at.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Chris,
George is right. I bought one of the Easy Coper Jigs (http://www.easycoper.com/) and plan on using it pretty soon.

I also sprung for a new Bosch jig saw since my old GMC jigsaw has seen better days.

The Bosch seems like a nice saw.

I can try out the jig in the next day or so if you want and post my results.

[Roger Nair]

Chris, as a carpenter bitten by the tool bug many times, in this case I would suggest keeping tools basic. A miter saw, coping saw and a sloyd knife are all you need to cut and fit crown mould in a quick and clean manner. Have a pencil scribe in reserve for trouble spots. Develop your manual skills, it will pay off as specialized tools gather dust.

[Justin Ludwig]

You could make that jig in about 5 minutes with some scraps, a SCMS (with bevel would be easier), and a jig saw.

I've set thousands of feet of crown and just clamp it to a table and jig away. Only benefit I can see in that jig is saving hand cramps from over gripping my jig saw, but I just alternate hands for relief. I was taught to use both hands long ago, and it has paid off (though my penmanship is that of 3rd grader with my left).

[Rich Engelhardt]

You could make that jig in about 5 minutesNo - you - can duplicate that jig. I can't, which is why I bought one already made.
I wasn't real thrilled about spending close to 40 bucks on one, but, considering the cost of the cherry crown I'm putting in, it was cheap "insurance".

[Justin Ludwig]

Rich, I hope you didn't think I was being condescending. I know I come off as brash in a lot of my posts.


6" wide board of to 3/4" material about 12" long. 2 pieces of same material 1-1/2" wide by 12" long. Nail them to sides of the 5" board as the runners. Set SCMS miter to 45*, bevel to 22.5*, cut those pieces at farthest point. Face board will be 1/2-3/4 material that's 7-1/2 long by "X" wide. Cut out a rectangular opening. Glue and nail to base.

On a table saw, use a 45* sled and tilt blade at 22.5* to make the cut.

I'm guessing on the bevel, but that would be my starting point. I haven't made one, only in my head after looking at a video of the Easy Coper on YouTube.

[Rich Engelhardt]

No problem ....no harm/no foul.

Personally, I'm happy for people that have natural talent and ability & find some things so ridiculously easy they can't imagine why anyone would have to resort to buying something instead of just whipping it up themselves.

A 45* spring angle is pretty easy to deal with, but, 38* - no so much.

The Easy Coper is all set up out of the box for 38* (52*). They give you detailed directions to modify it for 45*.


Course - - - if we all had Tommy Silva's natural ability then we'd al just laugh at these jigs and grab our coping saws! :D

[Chris Payne]

I have been watching u tube very informative I found a guy on there by the name Paul Paulk he builds some incredible saw stands and benches and he uses a coping foot for his jigsaw bought me one today. Thanks for the input.