Vintage Craftsman 12" Bandsaw - Worth fixing?

[Allan Speers]

I need some opinions on this:

I have a 21" Grizzly bandsaw, and mostly I need that for resawing. I have yet to change blades, but that was a PITA enough on my old 14" Delta, so I shudder to think...... I almost decided to keep the Delta, but I need the money I can get for it so I'll be selling it soon.

I aquired a ~ 1940's vintage Craftsman 12" bandsaw, #103-0103 in a lot-purchase. It's the type with cast iron wheels & cast iron trunnion, so I hate to see it go to the junk pile. It has a 1 HP motor in fine shape, and a home-made wooden stand. Not worth a whole lot if I sell it, so I'm considering fixing it up & using it for narrow blades.
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It's in REALLY good condition, except that it needs tires, a belt, and the top guide is broken.

There is a very nice aftermarket top guide available (nicer than the original) so I COULD get the old gal running again, but just those basic repairs would cost $92 plus shipping, and I don't know if I could eventually sell it for more than $100.

Also is has a cheapo aluminum wheel pulley, and the bottom guide is junk (again, a better one is available that will fit) plus it could use a quick-crank tensioner. Then I thought, "Hey, why not a Carter stabilizer?"

A full upgrade would cost around $200, after shipping, and $300 with the Carter stabilizer. The table is pretty small, but at least the throat is pretty good at 14". Still, I'm thinking that for cutting curves, the much larger table & throat of the Grizzly would make changing blades / resetting the guides worth the trouble.
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So am I out of my mind? What would you do?

[Matt Day]

Place a WTB over at OWWM and see if you can find the original guides for cheap. Other parts are pretty inexpensive right? You don't "need" a quick crank tensioner if you're on a budget.

[Allan Speers]

I hear ya' Matt, but the original guides weren't very good, so if I keep it, I'd prefer the new ones. Plus, that's only about $40 for the top guide.

The tensioner is of course not absolutely needed, but again if I keep the saw, I'd certainly want it. So, that's the price range I'm dealing with, to make this worth doing.

I'm leaning towards junking it, or maybe selling for parts, but it's kind of a cool old machine.

[Bruce Wrenn]

The Delta isn't going to bring what you will be spending on the C-man saw. Good money after bad. Sell the C-man for what you can get out of it.

[Allan Speers]

The Delta isn't going to bring what you will be spending on the C-man saw. Good money after bad. Sell the C-man for what you can get out of it.


Sure it will. It's an X5, with riser block and a 2 HP motor. Otherwise I'd def agree with you and keep the Delta.

[Bradley Gray]

I have that saw in my shop and I use it a lot. I also have a 32" Crescent so I only use the 12" for small blades. I can go from the big saw to small before the big saw's blade stops. Get some cool block graphite guides for it and fire it up with an 1/8" Lenox 5 tooth pattern blade. I've had mine for 35+ years and only replaced the guides and blades.

[Allan Speers]

Bradley, where did you get the aftermarket guides? If I keep this, I'd like options.

thanks.

[Paul Schaefer]

My dad has one of these since I was a kid. They're coo old machines, and he's done a lot of good work with it. A couple years ago he finally got new brass rods for the guides and replaced the steel disk that serves as a thrust bearing with an actual thrust bearing. Pretty simple upgrade, and made a big difference.

Is the actual casting of the top guide cracked, or is it less critical damage that could be repaired? Knowing the saw, if I was in your shoes, I'd repair or replace the top guide put on new wheels and a belt, and leave everything else as-is.

[Allan Speers]

My dad has one of these since I was a kid. They're coo old machines, and he's done a lot of good work with it. A couple years ago he finally got new brass rods for the guides and replaced the steel disk that serves as a thrust bearing with an actual thrust bearing. Pretty simple upgrade, and made a big difference.

Is the actual casting of the top guide cracked, or is it less critical damage that could be repaired? Knowing the saw, if I was in your shoes, I'd repair or replace the top guide put on new wheels and a belt, and leave everything else as-is.

Yes, the casting cracked, otherwise I probably could have figured out a fix. Well, that aftermarket guide looks pretty nice, so no worries there. Maybe I will just do the minimum, and use it for a 1/4" blade.

[Bradley Gray]

Bradley, where did you get the aftermarket guides?

woodcraft has the cool block guides. I recommend trying an 1/8" blade. Used with your bigger saw you can make square inside corner cuts for tenons and dovetails - cut in on the big saw then move to the 12" to make the 2nd cut at right angles - the 1/8" blade will slide in the bigger kerf sideways.

[mark kosse]

Just curious, what made the blade change difficult on the X5? It should only be a 3 minute job. I have that same Cman BS that is like new but I would never keep it over an X5. I think that was deltas nicest 14"er of all time.

If you have the room, keep them all. Of coarse that type thinking is why my 2000sf shop is packed full. If you can't keep it find some kid to give it to. I pick these up for 30-50.00 and give them to my deserving students fairly often. I have them clean and redo them. The aluminum housing makes it easy to turn them into nice looking machines.

[William C Rogers]

I fixed up a old craftsman that I got for free. It wasn't in bad shape. It had some vibration so I balanced the wheels, replaced the rubber wheels. The original guides were still ok. When all said and done it was still a old craftsman. I sold it for what I had in it as I just didn't think it was worth The effort.

[Mike Wilkins]

I have that same machine acquired for free; best price I could find. Dismantled after finding several posts, photos and a parts diagram from the OWWM old woodworking site. This saw was made when real tools could be purchased from Sears. Cast iron wheels, frame; sturdy guides and easy-to-access wheel covers. The neoprene tires for a 12" machine fit nicely, although I had to trim about 3/32" from the side of the tires to fit in the wheel groove. And with neoprene tires, you don't have to use any adhesive to mount them. You can find the tires from most mail order stores (Lee Valley/Rockler, etc)

Not sure about blade guides for this machine; you may have to do some metal work to get some aftermarket guides to fit. The blade is 80" in length and is available most anywhere; I put a Bosch blade from Lowes just to test out the machine, and plan to get some good-quality blades after I get it dialed in. This model was made sometime in the late 40's or early 50's and many are still around. Mine does not have a rip fence, although the parts diagram shows one was available when it was offered. There are 2 holes in the front of the table to mount a fence; I have been exploring my brain cells to come up with a fence set-up, but that is a future project.

Good luck with your machine. I will post photos as soon as I learn how to do so.

[Dan T Jones]

I absolutely would fix up the Sears. At the worst sounds like new tires and a Stabilizer would do it. You don't need the lower guides with the Stabilizer.
That is a well made saw. BTW, the wheel bearings are not expensive and very easy to change.
Dan

[Gail Ludwig]

I also have this machine and am a fan . Price was FREE -- so I was a happy camper when I picked it up. I located a new upper guide on Ebay and it has worked great. It is easy to change blades and I have had no problems with it. As some have said, no mitre guide or rip fence. But I use a wall mount magnet strip for screwdrivers which sticks to the metal deck pretty well. Basically, it has been a workhorse for me and I plan to use it as long as it lasts.