Questions on Shellac

[George Bokros]

I am planning t use some shellac to finish the inside of a cabinet I am building. Just to keep it simple I plan to use Zinsser Bullseye Amber Shellac. My understanding is it is 3# cut. I also understand from shellac.net that 1.5# cut is the best to use for applying with a pad.

Zinsser reduction directions are as follows:
3 lb to 2 lb 2 parts alcohol to 5 parts shellac
3 lb to 1 lb 3 parts alcohol to 2 parts shellac
2 lb to 1 lb 1 part alcohol to 1 part shellac

This being said through interpolation I get 26.5 oz of alcohol to 32 oz of shellac. My logic tells that if the quart is 3# cut to get to 1.5# cut you would add a full quart of alcohol to get 1.5# cut.

What am I missing? How would you get to 1.5# cut?

Thanks

[Dan Hulbert]

I see no flaw in your logic. Look at the 2 lb to 1 lb. 1 qt 3lb with 1 qt alcohol = 1.5 lb cut

Besides, it's shellac, in my experience, one of the most forgiving finishes ever concocted. Refined bug goo. I love it!

[Prashun Patel]

1# cut is about 1/8 pure shellac to alcohol by weight.

i agree with your logic. 1 part alcohol to 1 part 3# cut will yield 1.5#

[glenn bradley]

Sounds about right. I will also add that I have never been super specific on cuts. With shellac, "about" works well for me. Even when I need to replicate a previous piece for a match the mix does not seem to be that specific. Unless you are running into some specific problem, approximate 1, 2, and 3lb cuts have covered all my needs. I'm not saying it doesn't pay to be exact. I'm just saying that you could save yourself some bother if you aren't trying to address a particular problem.

[Scott Holmes]

FYI Amber still has the wax so it's not as durable nor as waterproof as the de-waxed. I too, just add the alcohol to get close to the cut I need. 1-1/2# cut is a good choice.

[George Bokros]

FYI Amber still has the wax so it's not as durable nor as waterproof as the de-waxed. I too, just add the alcohol to get close to the cut I need. 1-1/2# cut is a good choice.

Scott would you recommend that if I want amber that I purchase some dewaxed amber from shellac.net? How much coverage can I expect from a quart of shellac?

Thanks

[John TenEyck]

I make any color shellac I want by adding Transtint dye to SealCoat shellac. I see no advantage of buying flakes of this or that color, dissolving it, filtering it, etc. only for it to go bad in a month or two. SealCoat lasts at least 2 years. And it's cheaper, too.

John

[Rich Engelhardt]

Seal Coat is getting as rare as hen's teeth around these parts.

I hunted high and low for some for the floors at our North River rental.

Anyhow -- don't get too hung up on the actual ratios.
One part of shellac to one part of alcohol will halve the original cut.

Only make up as much as your going to use at one time.

Personally - I hate the stuff. Next time we do lunch and are bending our elbow's solving the problems of the world ;), I'll fill in all the reasons why!
LOL!
I used to work in a paint store in the Cleveland Market of 5 (6 really) stores. I was low man on the totem pole for all the stores and every time something ugly - like settling a customer complaint - came up, I got sent out on it.
I probably sanded and slathered off more shellac than any ten people here have applied.....:D :D.


John's spot on for this BTW - unless you really need amber to match some old work, you're much better off using dye in pale shellac to get the color.

Amber get's "muddy" real quick. I can show you the oak out feed table on my table saw & you can see what I mean by "muddy". I brushed 3 or 4 coats of amber on there and it ain't pretty.

[Scott Holmes]

I also use TransTint dyes in blonde de-waxed shellac. Either from flakes or seal coat. I would expect 100 sq ft or so from a quart of shellac.

[Jerry Olexa]

Shellac is extremely "forgiving"..No need to be exact !!! You can also brush on your first coat if it is interior of cabinet....I always pad after the first sealing coat,