Finally got one of these....

[steven c newman]

Now what? A $10 Garage Sale "Find"
323330
AuburnTool Co. Auburn NY USA

1-1/2" wide. Number LOOKS like a No. 181 (???)
323331
Had to regrind the bevel, to get rid of all the wear on one side of the iron..
323332
Seems to be a Skewed Rebate Plane?
323333
The heel end has seen a lot of hammer taps...

So...what do i do with something like this? I know it won't work in this sort of jig..
323334
That be a Millers Falls No. 11, and my shooting board.

Seems to be hard to guide as is. Maybe a BIG Shoulder plane? Maybe rig a fence of some sort to cut rebates with? Was getting spoiled running the Wards No. 78 around, though..

[Jim Koepke]

If you knife a line along the edge of where a rabbet is desired the corner of the sole can be used to make trough along the line, then a few shavings can be made with care. Once it is started, it is self guiding in the groove.

jtk

[ken hatch]

If you knife a line along the edge of where a rabbet is desired the corner of the sole can be used to make trough along the line, then a few shavings can be made with care. Once it is started, it is self guiding in the groove.

jtk

I agree with Jim but will add one other step if you have a Snips Bill it makes the start even easier. With very little practice you will find it is quicker and easier to do a couple of rebates with a rebate/rabbet plane than it is with a moving fillister. Add a few more and then setting up the the moving fillister is worthwhile.

ken

[Robert Engel]

Its a skew rabbet plane.

The skewed blade is better cross grain.

I've also used them (carefully) to tune up large tenons.

Scribing the line is critical in xgrain cutting to avoid tear out.

Keeping the blade aligned perfectly can be a bit fiddly.
If you're having trouble check the mating surface of the keeper.
One of the fallbacks on these guys is the mouth is very wide.

Joint the sole square to side before you start using it.
A slight chamber on the inside edge also is a good idea.

As the previous poster mentioned, a sliding fence (and a depth gauge) are nice little additions, but not necessary with practice.

I had a nice one and ruined it trying to make a sliding dovetail plane out of it.

[steven c newman]

I may keep this as a shoulder plane sort of thing. I do a lot of Mortise & Tenon stuff, this might be easier then the chisels to use.

Sole is indeed flat. Mouth is actually a bit tight...... Setting the depth seems to be a bit finicky, lots of tap,tap,tap....