Drilling the Blum door hinge....

[Justin Jump]

This one is quick and easy......

My cabinet doors are painted white - do you normally drill the 35mm (using 1-3/8") hole before or after you paint?

I see pros and cones for each way, but not sure which way to lean....


THX

[Mark Wooden]

I drill, bore, mortise, etc. first- in general, I do all my fit up before any finish is applied so any adjustments won't require a re-finish of parts. Tooling will last much longer if not cutting through paint also.

[Jim Dwight]

If you are spraying, you might want to wait and bore the large hole before the final coat of finish is applied and not before the first coat is applied to minimize paint in the hole. But boring the hole can damage the finish so appearance is likely to be better if you bore first. If you are rolling or brushing I would definitely bore the hole first. You could also put a wad of tape or something in the hole when spraying and minimize the buildup. You have to be a little careful about buildup because the hinge is a tight fit.

[Peter Quinn]

I've done both, my preference is to drill first and have the doors hanging before final sand and finish, sometimes at work this is not possible on short deadline jobs as the paint must be sprayed. Just be sure to pad the table of your drill press well or cover it with a good smooth scratch free surface if painting first. When holes go first it's a good place to label the doors and a quick piece of blue tape keeps the holes clear, and build up can quickly be removed with your 1 3/8" bit in a cordless drill just to team out any paint, but again taping the holes generally solves the problem.

[Erik Christensen]

I find it much easier to trim the door to final size when it is installed... so the cup hinges have to be in place to hang the door. When ready to finish I put masking tape on each hinge - add a number to both hinge and cup hole so they all go back on the same door and hinge adjustments do not have to be repeated.

I spray all my doors and have never had an issue with finish in the cup hinge hole causing problems when the hinge is re-installed.

[Tom Ewell]

I do all millwork and fitting before finish when feasible, have yet to have any holes including shelf pin holes fill up with finish (spraying) enough to affect the fit.
On the rare occasion when finish goes on first, as mentioned, protect it when doing further millwork.

[Martin Wasner]

Another vote for drilling them prior to finishing. I drill them before finish sanding as well, just one less step that can ding things up, that's the only reason.

[Larry Fox]

I also drill before finishing. I have a bunch of cardboard circles that are about the size of the cup holes that I put in the holes through the finish cycle. I drew a buhch of circles on a cardboard box a few years ago with a compass and let the kids cut them out.

[Bruce Wrenn]

If you drill first, Rockler used to carry a device that hooks in cup hole that can b used to hold panel while spraying.

[Michael Munari]

Thanks for this tip! It's almost a decade old but good. I made foam inserts. I put painters tape over the foam so I don't ever have to recut them...


I also drill before finishing. I have a bunch of cardboard circles that are about the size of the cup holes that I put in the holes through the finish cycle. I drew a buhch of circles on a cardboard box a few years ago with a compass and let the kids cut them out.

[Lee Schierer]

I drill, bore, mortise, etc. first- in general, I do all my fit up before any finish is applied so any adjustments won't require a re-finish of parts. Tooling will last much longer if not cutting through paint also.

What Mark said....

[Tom M King]

Drill first. No worries of finish damage with handling after. Not enough finish in the hole to matter with normal practices.

[Richard Coers]

I would never want to set a freshly painted cabinet door face down on a drill press or hinge boring machine. One little scuff and more work is created. Holes are all bored and doors fitted before they go to finishing.

[andrew whicker]

If you drill first, Rockler used to carry a device that hooks in cup hole that can b used to hold panel while spraying.


Do you use those? I think they are kind of odd considering I want the least finished edge to be the least seen edge (ie top or bottom depending on location).


(I'm not as experienced as most on this page I'm assuming, but I also machine first and finish second.... Minimize handling of finished doors as much as possible)

I just realized how old the Original Post is. : ) Coming back from the dead!

[Dan Chouinard]

I find it much easier to trim the door to final size when it is installed... so the cup hinges have to be in place to hang the door. When ready to finish I put masking tape on each hinge - add a number to both hinge and cup hole so they all go back on the same door and hinge adjustments do not have to be repeated.

I spray all my doors and have never had an issue with finish in the cup hinge hole causing problems when the hinge is re-installed.

I also hang the door and then trim to final size.

[Dave Sabo]

Pretty much all European manufacturers do their 35mm cup boring AFTER the doors are finished. Small, medium, large, Italian , German , Spanish....doesn't matter - all bore after the finish is applied.

[Jamie Buxton]

Pretty much all European manufacturers do their 35mm cup boring AFTER the doors are finished. Small, medium, large, Italian , German , Spanish....doesn't matter - all bore after the finish is applied.

Large manufacturers do all sorts of things which don’t necessarily make sense for small shops.

[Dave Sabo]

Large manufacturers do all sorts of things which don’t necessarily make sense for small shops.


Perhaps you didn’t finish reading my post :confused:





the SMALL and MEDIUM shops follow that practice too !

:rolleyes:

[Warren Lake]

never done that, there is no reason you arent going to build up enough finish that it causes a problem unless you spray like Mongo. Its a fools game to handle finished stuff and bring it back to machines.

It would be like delivering a bunch of fancy cabinets and not have them blanket wrapped and taped.

[Jamie Buxton]

Perhaps you didn’t finish reading my post :confused:





the SMALL and MEDIUM shops follow that practice too !

:rolleyes:

Odd…. I read the entire post as I saw it. I hit “reply with quote”, which happens to show what I read.

[Dave Sabo]

Odd…. I read the entire post as I saw it. I hit “reply with quote”, which happens to show what I read.

So you simply chose to ignore the inconvenient truth because it didn't align with your viewpoint ?

Fair enough, people do it all the time.

I mean, lots of shops of all sizes do all kinds if things that don't make sense for other shops. I just assumed everyone already knew that axiom; but I'm sure you spelling it out will be helpful for someone at some point.




Its a fools game to handle finished stuff and bring it back to machines.

Warren - I truly value your considerable experience and wisdom dispensed around here , but on this matter I think you're way off base. Lots of fools in Europe and the USA run profitable operations doing exactly that. Just because it doesn't conform to your view of operations , does not make it non-viable or foolish.

If you're handling laminated or veneered material making doors or carcasses (even if you lay them up yourself) you are handling "finished stuff" and bringing to and fro around the shop to a CNC, saw, edgbander (multiple times !) boring machine, line borer, horizontal borer. Hinge boring is just another stop along the journey.

There are also some that would deem you foolish if you attempted to move veneered sheet goods around the shop's machining stations without having a finish on them to help protect the faces. Doesn't make them any more correct than your position.