Bedroom Bubinga ...more pics

[John Scane]

Well here are some shots of one nightstand. I have them both glued up and I'm trying to figure out how to attatch the bottom shelf. I installed some cleats under it to hold it level but I'm not sure the best way to attatch it to the cleats. I drilled some holes and elongated them for expansion but I'm not getting enough bite from the screws into the shelf because the legs flared out a bit from the glue up. So now I have to bring them back into allignment and I was hoping the bottom shelf would hold them but they just pop back. Now I'm thinking I might drill through the sides of the legs, screw into the shelf glue it and then plug them. Any ideas?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/js040667/ns_no-drawer_1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/js040667/ns_no-drawer_2.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/js040667/ns_no-drawer_3.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Lookin' great, John!!!

[Mark Singer]

John,

Why not run 2 aprons under the shelf and motise them in. Or use a couple of pocket screws from the back on each apron. If you recess them they won't show and you can even run them flat.

[Todd Burch]

Hey - you stole some of my Bubinga!! Good looking table.

My suggestion is that you use a wider cleat. For instance, (shame on you - no picture of the subject area in question...), if you are using a 3/4" x 3/4" cleat, that might be too small. Perhaps if you use a 1 1/2" x 3/4" cleat on the flat, where the shelf sits on the 1 1/2" dimension, that would work for you. See picture.

When I made a table out of bubinga, I had to order special screws from McMaster Carr that would not break. Home Center screws broke off every attempt.

Todd

[Mike Wenzloff]

I was going to say that I favor Marks idea...even though it would mean more work with it already glued-up.

I would probably be tempted to make it out of a 2" x 2" and curve the show side of the front edge to compliment the curves present.

I would use floating tenons as well so the mortise can easily be let into the legs...and this is where I hit the bricks.

Especially with the tension on the legs trying to pull away from the shelf, I would fear the tension would be strong enough to eventually make a M&T fail.

So I don't know. I would investigate threaded inserts into the end-grain (a dab of epoxy on them when screwed in) of the shelves, drill though the sides and use machine screws and plug them.

If I chose the cleats, I would add the apron at the front. I would also begin with a 2" x 2" piece and cut a healthy cove into it, making it a smooth 'L' shaped piece. At least when it is seen it would be curved and it also provides a good shape to drive screws in both directions. Also, when I say screws, I would probably substitute machine bolts, especially in Bubinga and the like. I drill and tap. One can take the bolt in further and they hold many times stronger than wood screws. Aside from the fact it is extremely difficult to break a machine screw.

Mike

BTW, very nice looking stands. When the finish hits, they'll be beautiful.

[John Scane]

Thanks for the suggestions, The cleats I used are I think 1.5x2 ( sorry i forgot the picture )

Here is a rough drawing of what I'm thinking will work.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/js040667/d1.jpg

Basically a frame. Cleats attatched to the sides with stretchers dovetailed in to pull sides together. The sides are only about 1/32 to 1/8 off. I am using #8 stainless screws.

[Michael Cody]

Why not just splines, glue & clamps ... use a trim router & a quarter inch spiral up bit. Cut spline slots in both the piece & leg, put in a spline glue & clamp. You could use floating mortises too -- same idea.

Once the glue is dry nothing is going to pull it apart .. if it doesn't hold, then no cleat is going to hold either.

[Todd Burch]

John, how much weight is the bottom shelf supposed to hold? 1 1/2" x 2" cleat are HUGE!! The frame you drew is pretty much overkill in my book too.

A simple and elegant solution would have been to cut a stopped sliding dovetial into the legs from back and then to slide the shelf into position. A touch of glue on the last inch, and you're done.

Now that the shelf is already cut to length, 3 or 4 #20 biscuits each side would work jut fine to both support the shelf and pull the legs back where they ought to be.

Todd

[Corey Hallagan]

Good looking table John! Can't wait to see it finished up.

Corey

[Mike Vermeil]

Mortise & loose tennon, spline, biscuits w/ good glue - they'll all work for this application I believe.

Just hurry up & get it done. I can't wait to see that top with some oil on it! Great work.

[John Scane]

John, how much weight is the bottom shelf supposed to hold? 1 1/2" x 2" cleat are HUGE!! The frame you drew is pretty much overkill in my book too.

A simple and elegant solution would have been to cut a stopped sliding dovetial into the legs from back and then to slide the shelf into position. A touch of glue on the last inch, and you're done.

Now that the shelf is already cut to length, 3 or 4 #20 biscuits each side would work jut fine to both support the shelf and pull the legs back where they ought to be.

Todd

I'm an idiot I meant 1.5 x 1 it's still big but I wanted it strong.
I couldn't do a dovetail because the shelf sits in 1 " from the back edge.
Now that it's glued I can get a slf with bicuits or loose tenons because it won't fit now.

The reason I ran into this problem is because I originally didn't plan on having a shelf then the client really liked the shelf but I had glued up the sides.

[John Scane]

Why not just splines, glue & clamps ... use a trim router & a quarter inch spiral up bit. Cut spline slots in both the piece & leg, put in a spline glue & clamp. You could use floating mortises too -- same idea.

Once the glue is dry nothing is going to pull it apart .. if it doesn't hold, then no cleat is going to hold either.


I could use a spline and have it stop before it goes through the front....?? Is that waht you mean? The shelf would have to slide onto it from the front.

[Mike Vermeil]

John - I didn't read your narrative close enough the first time & didn't realize you had already glued up the tables.

You mentioned screws threw the legs with plugs. Have you thought about using that method but with face-grain bubinga or possibly ebony plugs? Rather than trying to hide the screws, accentuate them ala Sam Maloof.

Now that I think about it, you could also dowel the shelf with bubinga or ebony dowels w/ the dowel ends exposed.

Both methods would definitely change the look of the leg, but proabably a matter of opinion of whether it's for the bad or good.

[John Scane]

Here's what I came up with. It pulled the legs together slightly and re-squared them so now the shelf fits flush. Now all I need to do is build the drawer and sand the whole thing then it's ready for the finish. Too bad I started teaching again this week, now I'll have less time at the shop.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/js040667/ns_shelf_frame.jpg