Pre Finished Drawer Box Material

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I can only locate one source for China Birch 1/2 ". It comes in 4, 6,8 and 10 inch wide 8 foot long lengths. They are packaged in sets of 5. Eight inch cost $90.85 per pack. The have the slot for the drawer bottom cut. This company is in Greensboro NC area. Does anyone know of a place to buy them in The Winston Salem NC area. I would be ok with them if I could buy just the number of boards I need. I am thinking about buying a sheet of China or Birch plywood and making my own. Not sure about banding them on the top edge myself. I can buy cans of spray Poly at Lowes and do them myself.

Hope someone knows of a source in this area.
Thanks
Johnny

[Scott Holmes]

Check with local lumberyards that sell to builders and contractors, they should have drawer stock available. Maybe ask a local cabinet maker where they get pre-finished drawer stock.

[John TenEyck]

Columbia makes that product, too: http://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/product/drawer-sides/

(http://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/product/drawer-sides/)As Scott said, a local lumber yard should be able to order it for you.

John

(http://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/product/drawer-sides/)

[Peter Kelly]

Baer / Würth sells BHK maple plywood drawer side material (http://www.baersupply.com/baer/servlet/CyberVendor/category/G4964806/catalog/group.jsp/?markProd=2119781&tabName=Catalog&ParentKey=G4964806). I'd certainly reccomend it over that garbage from China.

They ship pretty much anywhere.

[Bill Neely]

States Industries sells it too, Appleply drawer sides.

[Robert Engel]

Unless this is a production issue it will be much cheaper to make your own.
I've used the chinese BB from HD hate using it worry about glues so make sure you wear a good mask.

Edge banding is very easy I've done miles of it.
Use the iron on once you get the technique down it goes fairly fast.
For finishing drawers a couple coats of shellac sanding between is fast and looks good.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Thanks guys. I am going to check out the info you provided. I have all the machines I need to make the maple box material if I cant buy local. Also I am not impressed at how I know the dove tails will look with the plywood. I learned that when you mill drawer box material you need to put it together quickly or it will start to cup and twist on you.
Thanks
Johnny

[Robert Engel]

You're right about plywood and machine DT's.
Even with high quality ply I do not look forward to DT's.
Drawer lock joints are even worse in my experience.

On the solid wood, unless you're dealing with sides over 6" cupping shouldn't be an issue as long as the wood is adapted.
If you start with 3/4 stock and mill equal amounts off each side plus do it incrementally with stickering over a few days, you will minimize cupping.

Some hardwood suppliers sell 1/2 stock you might want to check that out.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Yesterday I started setting up the DT jig for the pre finished 1/2 china birch. First test cut (left to right). It ripped the thin layer down in places about 1 inch or more. Next cut I did a climb cut right to left then cut the DT right to left and it cut fine. Made a bit adjustment and got the right cut and fit on the DT's. Made a few more test cuts and the DT's were great. Only thing is I can cut a test corner and it is perfect except for the occasional tear or split in the very thin veneer. I AM DONE TRYING TO MAKE THIS WORK...I will attempt to buy solid drawer box material or mill my own. BTW the the DT are ugly with the plys showing.
Thanks Guys
Johnny