Using dry drawbored m+t joints for bed rails

[Trevor Hutton]

I am going to start building a farmhouse style bed (king). I had pretty much decided on using some rail hardware for attaching rails to head and footboard for ease of disassembly. Then I wondered if it would be possible use a large M+T joint without glue and drawbore some large-ish pegs in place. I'm using 4x4 legs and 2 x10 rails. Theoretically, I could then drive the pegs out and take the bed down if needed in the future. I'm thinking 2, or maybe 3, pegs to minimize racking of the rail against the head and footboard. Am I bound to have a wobbly bed over time by going this route?

[Kent A Bathurst]

In a word: No.

If you do the drawbores correctly, with riven pieces to properly make the pins, they will hold. Dowels-R-Us material will not do the job properly

Your idea about dis-assembly, though - that ship will hit the rocks. I'm guessing you will have to drill them out, which ruins the drawbore for re-assembly.

For the dis-assembly bit, you need garden-variety bedframe hardware, designed precisely for that purpose.

[Mel Fulks]

Agree with the new Kent ,use regular bed bolts. They make two wrenchs and one is pretty expensive ,try to find the cheap one. A bolt up bed is quite sturdy ,and easy to move .

[Dave Avery]

I've done it and it has held up for ~20 years....

[John T Barker]

I worked with a company that made made 18th century style four poster beds and we used the traditional 8 bolts. Our rails weren't anywhere near the size of yours (why so big) so a good size tenon with the bolt works very, very well. I've had one for almost twenty years and it has held up well with no need to tighten. Any bolt will do, it doesn't have to be a "bed bolt. (Our rails were poplar, about 4" x 2-3/

[Jim Dwight]

I've built at least 7 beds and have used a variety of joints but these are what I plan to keep using:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/127456/bed-rail-fastener.aspx

I make a jig for the router to cut the mortises easily. The joints are strong and disassemble reasonably easily (sometimes you need a deadblow hammer).

[Kent A Bathurst]

.... new Kent....

Completely untrue. Nefarious rumor.




;)

[Mel Fulks]

The wrench I referred to as expensive is about $60 at a local hdw store ....but only about $30 on line. No wonder I've never seen anybody buy one. It's the brass 3 size triangular one.

[Trevor Hutton]

Thanks for the input. The link with the mortised hardware is exactly what I was planning before this question came up. I'll likely head down that path again. Was just hoping I could come up with something a bit less "manufactured", but they make the hardware because it works, I suppose.
Btw, I am planning such deep rails so that the box spring can sit completely recessed within the rails.

[Jamie Buxton]

Bolts may be the easiest and most secure. But if you really don't want to use them, nice big tusk tenons should work. I've used them to make knock-apart dining tables, and they do stay together. One key thing is to run the wedge vertically, so gravity helps hold it in place if skrinkage and vibration try to loosen it. Running it horizontal does not work as well, despite looking like an easier construction.

Unlike drawbored pegs, the wedges can be driven out without damaging them or the lumber they secure.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

I wasn't thinking new Kent--- More like 'Elvis Sighting!'

[roger wiegand]

Traditional bed bolts with short M&T joints is by far the best system I've ever used. The one bed I built with the mortised Woodcraft steel hangers wobbles and squeaks at the joints; no such issues with the traditionally made beds. Getting the steel hangers neatly mortised in was also a longer, harder process than cutting the M&T joints, so for me they lose both on function and convenience.

For a tall four poster bed the ability to completely disassemble the head and footboards for moving has saved a ton of trouble and toil.

[Jim Dwight]

If the mortised connectors are correctly installed the bed rail will be against the headboard and footboard which stops any wobbling.

I do not use boxed springs on the beds I make. I do not see a useful purpose to them. I put slats across to support the mattress. I've used a full platform out of 3/4 plywood but that makes the bed very firm and the plywood is difficult to handle. Next I tried rails about 4 inches wide out of 3/4 Baltic birch plywood. That worked too but I thought it was a little too flexible. Last bed was slats about a foot wide of 3/4 plywood. That is what I would duplicate - or possibly a bit narrower. I think 6 inches to a foot wide is about right depending on how firm you want the bed to be. I've moved a bed built like this and it was relatively easy. The boxed spring is one less thing to maneuver around - and is usually the worst going upstairs since it doesn't bend. Headboard, foot board, rails, and slats to move, then set it up, then throw the mattress on top and you have a bed. My bolted beds have required significantly more time to set up. This isn't the biggest consideration but is a factor to consider.

I would probably make a four poster with bed bolts, however. I've used them and they work well but for most beds I prefer the mortised pieces.

[Steve Wilde]

I built a bed several years ago using dry mortise and tendons with a bed bolt through the middle to hold it all together. I did cut a mortise for the nut, which i fitted a tendon into and pounded the bolt into to make an indentation of where the middle would be. I then pulled the tenon, and cut a hole out to fit the nut, then glued it all back in place and cut it off flush. I don't have to worry about getting the nut in the right position and holding it while I connect the bed together. This is just like what I used. http://www.rockler.com/3-8-diameter-bed-bolt?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=COL_xtyJrsgCFQetaQodaXcLVQ