Wet Sanding

[Jason Solodow]

Okay, I tried wetsanding a couple of pieces the other day with some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Now, should I wet the paper with water or mineral spirits? Or something else? Let me hear your thoughts!

[Jim Becker]

In the rare situation that I need to wet sand something that already has finish on it, I use mineral spirits. But I rarely wet-sand.

[Carole Valentine]

I don't do a lot of wet sandng, but when I do it is usually by hand during the second coat of Danish oil with 600 grit. I have found that this will give me a really silky finish.

[Steve Rowe]

When I wetsand I do so with a mixture of 60% beeswax and 40% paraffin oil.

[Jim DeLaney]

I usually use naphtha.

I use a lot of shellac, and the naphtha doesn't affect it. Also, I detest the odor of mineral spirits.

[Dennis Peacock]

I usually use MS on most pieces that I turn and want a nice finish on my bowls or platters. I hold a wet rag (with MS) towards me and the sandpaper just behind the MS wet rag. The wet rag keep the dust from making it back around to the sandpaper making the sandpaper last longer and do it's job better. Other than that? wet sanding with BLO (50/50 mix of BLO and MS) or tung oil (50/50 mix of tung oil and MS). All have worked well for me and I like the results I'm getting.

[Dominic Greco]

I usually wet sand when I'm dealing with wood that is punky, has very open pores, or tricky end grain. Walnut is a good example. Osage Orange is another.

I use a mix of 50% Mineral spirits and 50% varnish. The varnish needs to be the type with Alkyd Resins in it. McClusky's Spar varnish in the red can seems to work fine for me.

This mix penetrates the wood and stiffens the wood fibers so that the sanding shears, rather than tears them. The swarth fills the pores and leaves a silky smooth finish.

A couple caveats with this technique.
1.) Slow RPMS are best. Unless of course, you want this mix sprayed all over the place.

2.) Start with a relatively smooth surface. In other words, dry sand to about 300 grit. Wet sanding will not get rid of ridges or bumps. They need to be gone before you start.

3.) Wipe the bowl clean from swarth when switching grits. I use a rag dampened with mineral spirits for this. This wiping also reveals scratches and places you may need to concentrate more on.

4.) Switch the rotation between grits (if your lathe can do this). This helps you to come at the wood fibers from both directions.

5.) WHERE A FACE SHIELD! No so much for flying debris as the spray! And cover your hair. Having this mix dry in your hair is a lot like getting hit in the head with a chewing gum spit-ball. DAMHIKT

6.) Cover the "blast area" behind the lathe with an old shower curtain. If you're not careful and keep the rpms low, the spray gets all over.

[Ernie Nyvall]

I've wet sanded lacquer with water.

Ernie

[Alan Ryalls]

hi everybody. i have on occasion used liquid parafin,leaves a nice satin finish,its something different and it keeps down the dust and the wet/dry paper lasts forever,
regards alan ryalls.