Mounting SawStop on Mobile Base

[Don Frambach]

I mounted my new SawStop on its mobile base by myself without heavy lifting or with any special equipment. It came on a small pallet. I built a 2x4 frame over the pallet and used clamps to lift the saw off the pallet. I then slowly released the clamps to lower the saw onto its mobile base. Here are some pictures:

[Per Swenson]

Don,

That was slick!

Far better then my caveman method.

Per

[Alan Turner]

Very nifty.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Talk about an overt gloat...to heck with the clamps (elegant idea, BTW), you got a new SawStop!

- Vaughn

[Bart Leetch]

Nice saw :D excellent brain :eek: .

[Michael Ballent]

That is great for the future SawStop owners, but where were you about 3 weeks ago when I got mine ;) Good on ya for thinking out of the box, but how did you lower the Saw onto th base? There is only so much the screw could lower it... This is for the future owners :D

[Don Frambach]

I oversimplified the clamping. The Bessey clamp screws are not long enough to sufficiently raise the saw out of the pallet and are not long enough to lower the saw into its base. However, by using a fifth clamp to lock the saw in its current position, the other clamps can be unclamped and either extended if raising the saw or retracted if lowering the saw and then reclamped to the frame. I had to do two clamp-reclamp cycles to raise the saw off the pallet and either four or five camp-reclamp cycles to lower the saw into the base.

[Roy Wall]

Don,

That was slick!

Far better then my caveman method.

Per

Yeah.......I just waddled it off the pallet and onto the base.
Very caveman-ish.........

Looks like a 32" fence???!! Nice saw.....:)

[Bill Fields]

VERY smart!


I'm gonna go down to Checker Auto and see if they'll take my 2-ton engine hoist back. Not really--it's there when (if) I need it.

BILL FIELDS

[Jay Knepper]

Well, I just left mine on the pallet. BUT that was ONLY because I'm 6'2".

Verrrry clever!

[Steve Clardy]

Nifty idea!!! Good looking saw too.

[Richard Wolf]

Nice saw and good thinking, but I think you need to make some friends.:):)

Richard

[Thomas M. John]

Don,
Did you place the fifth clamp sequentially next to each of the four already placed clamps thus transferring the weight of the particular clamp to the fifth clamp while you made the adjustment? Then you would, as 'sequential' suggests, move that fifth clamp next to another one of the existing four clamps and make the similar adjustment. Little by little, therefore, the saw gets lowered (or raised, depending upon the direction you're going). Am I correct? I am wanting to do this but wanting to make sure I don't get it going and find myself stuck. If this is the way it was done, if I were to use 8 clamps, it would probably go faster, correct?

Thanks for lending you brain. I just bought a Sawstop and it is still on its pallet after two weeks and want to get going with it. :)

Thom John

[Glenn Clabo]

Thom,
This was an old post. Don has been here for over a year.

[Scott Rollins]

Thomas:
The sawstop is not connected to the pallet at all. It is sitting on a ring of 1" pallet material. If you tilt the sawstop back you can then tilt it over the ring of cleat material with a twisting motion. After it is resting on the cleats it moves pretty easily (with two people) on the pallet. I simply tilted the sawstop off the pallet and directly into my mobile base.

[Chris Padilla]

If I had a SS I think I would have just "He-Man'ed" it wherever needed! :p

Yes, old thread but a nice idea. :)

[Bruce Page]

I know this is an old post but it still scares me. I’m glad it worked for Don but I guarantee you that if I tried that I would end up cracking the cast iron top.

[Thomas M. John]

Thanks, Glenn. Yes, I know it was an old post but I found it very useful and was hoping Don was still around to offer more illumination.

Scott, thanks: I can see that as that is what I first considered doing but the drop from the pallet top to the place on the mobile base where the saw will sit is about 3 to 4 inches. It just seemed a lot to risk a jar. But maybe it is adjusted well enough that I don't need to worry about jarring it. When they delivered it, it got a jolt or two and I worried about it but they told me not to.

Thanks again.

Thom

[Thomas M. John]

This is helpful. I guess maybe I'm being "saved" from doing something very complicated and possibly that will present more of a risk to my saw than if I just moved it the way everyone says to move it which is by strongarming it and tilting it.

Thom

[Scott Rollins]

The drop down to the mobile base is as you said about 3-4 inches, but I just pulled it out and when two of us couldn't hold it up any more it tilted down into the inside of the mobile base and that was it. We then scooted it into the base. No bumps or jars. Two people can tilt 500 lbs, but not lift it.
BTW the mobile bas is a grizzly model. If I had to do it again I would get the HTC model or the new sawstop mobile base with the hydraulic lift.

[Andy Pratt]

I slid mine off the top of the pallet with the help of the delivery guy (who seemed to be an expert at this, still not quite sure how he made it look so easy) and with a tilt forward on the way down, the drop from the pallet to the base didn't seem very harsh at all. As long as you use a normal amount of force and have a couple guys on it to ease the drop I wouldn't be worried.

[Mike Heidrick]

I found that I had to reverse the L on the end of the adjustable ledge on the HTC base in order for the legs to sit on the ledge correctly. Far easier to do this before mounting the table. FYI for those with a sawstop, 52" sawstop Accu Glide fence, and the HTC-3274EX base.

[Thomas M. John]

Thanks to everyone re advice about moving my Sawstop. Yup, the new mobile base from Sawstop itself is no doubt the cadillac but seems as though they only make a model for the industrial grade machine which I think must be the 7hp one. ? At any rate, sounds like most everyone is recommending a two-man tilt and move but that a few folks have done it by themselves. I called Sawstop (brilliant, I know, I finally realized i could do that) and they said DO NOT DO THE CLAMP TRICK. They said the castiron top itself and the way it is attached to the saw cabinet IS NOT made to carry the weight of the saw. They said it could fracture the castiron but more than likely what would happen is you put your saw out of whack and not even realize it until you started using it. The two person tilt and move method is their recommendation. They say, as some of you have suggested, that it would have to be a pretty big jolt to hurt the saw at all. They said there is just nothing in it that would really respond much to a minor jolt. Just in case any other new person with this saw signs on here and sees this.

Thanks again everyone. Appreciate the support.

Thom