Low Odor Paste Wax?

[Peter Aeschliman]

Hi All,

I use a lot of Johnson's paste wax and think it's great for finishing in the shop. But it's pretty stinky and seems to take a while to finish off-gassing.

I made a table for a good friend a number of years ago and it's time for a waxing. They have a baby, and I think his wife doesn't like products that have much of a chemical odor (they use low VOC products when possible/etc).

Do you have any recommendations? Staples 211 came up on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Staples-211-Carnauba-Paste-1-Pound/dp/B001OBT0XM)and the reviews seem to indicate that it's pretty low odor.

Any others?

Thanks!!
Peter

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Virtually all furniture paste waxes use petroleum based thinners to make them spreadable. I am not aware of any that do not, but I have not looked for them.

Normal Briwax has toluene and one person told me that it may damage a finish that is not fully cured. They do make a toluene free version that uses Xylene and Naphtha (mineral spirits.) Those may flash off faster, but I have not tried it.

BIOShield claims to make one but I have no experience with it.

http://www.bioshieldpaint.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=643

Again, this is not an endorsement. I have never used the product.

[Prashun Patel]

Pure mineral spirits is largely odorless, as is pure paraffin.

You can make your own paste wax by dissolving paraffin candle wax into mineral spirits.

You can also use beeswax, which has an odor, but many do not describe it as unpleasant, and because it's natural, you may perceive this as more healthy than synthetic paste waxes. I do not share that perception. And I don't share the perception that there remains any harmful volatile compounds in dried wax that may harm babies or mothers.

[Randy Red Bemont]

Do you have any recommendations? Staples 211 came up on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Staples-211-Carnauba-Paste-1-Pound/dp/B001OBT0XM)and the reviews seem to indicate that it's pretty low odor.

Any others?

Thanks!!
Peter

I use the above mentioned wax and it is low odor. I use it on all my turnings and it works and looks great.

Red

[Peter Aeschliman]

Thanks guys.

Prashun, the issue isn't so much the residual effect, but the odor during application and drying. The projects I have waxed with Johnson's seem to take at least a week before the odor goes away. Knowing my buddy's wife, I don't think she'd be thrilled. I don't like the odor either, frankly. But I guess I have more tolerance.

Randy, I think I'll go on your recommendation. Thanks!

Peter

[Marvin Hasenak]

Try making your own, plenty of info about combinations that you can use, beeswax, paraffin, carnauba, palm wax, etc.. Instead of mineral spirits or paint thinner use citrus solvent. The citrus solvent gives the wax a lemon lime smell, I get mine from eth Milk Paint Company. Costs a little more than the mineral spirits at the big boxes, but smells good. I melt my waxes in a double boiler on a hotplate, and add the citrus solvent, I have read you can dissolve the waxes in the solvent, but I go ahead and melt them first. The amount depends on the waxes you use, you will have to play with the ratios to determine what you want for YOUR paste wax consistency. I melt the wax or waxes, then add the solvent, and store it on 1/2 pint Mason jars.

You can also make solid bar waxes for lathe work the same way, just leave out the solvent. For solid bar wax, I use muffin pans for my mold

Things to remember, bees wax is soft, carnauba is hard, paraffin is a form of "microcrystalline" wax and is a fairly hard wax, palm wax is an unknown. The paraffin mix ratio makes a big difference as does the purity of the brand you use. I only use the paraffin that is made for home canning, tried the cheap stuff for waxes onetime, never again. The ratios are "to each his own choices", but I would start with even ratios based on the waxes you choose. Experiment, as a starter I would suggest, equal parts paraffin, carnauba and bees wax.

There is also liquid paraffin wax, as of now I consider it an unknown, I have messed with it a little but not satisfied with any of the combinations I have tried. But that is my opinion, some might find that mixing melted beeswax and liquid paraffin just the right answer, I did not care for it.

Look for a candle makers pot to melt your waxes. They are better designed than the regular pot and pans from the kitchen. They look like a percolator coffee pot. Easier to pour out of, and work great on a single burner hotplate. You can do this in the kitchen, but a wax spill mess is hard to clean up.

[John T Barker]

I once applied a wax finish with a guy who was restoring an antique table. We lit a couple of candles and we dripped the wax on to the table and rubbed it around. Don't remember what we used, rags I guess. Maybe some buffing with steel wool.

I remember there are, I think, some books with the finishes made up centuries ago. I would think they might include methods and formulae that might be less offensive.

[Phil Mueller]

As John indicated above, I've seen methods for no odor, non toxic wax finishes just using candles. Use a small torch and drip a bunch of candle wax all over the surface, spread it around with a sponge applicator using a heat gun or hair dryer to keep it spreadable. Let it cool, then melt more wax on a paper towel and rub out the waxed surface. Finish with a soft lint free rag and a few drops of water.
Haven't tried it...just remember reading about it somewhere.

[David Helm]

I've been using Mylands wax from London for a number of years. Yes there are petroleum distillates in it just like other paste waxes. The difference is the list the exact amount of VOCs on the can. In my experience, it is the least problematic in outgassing of any of the commercial waxes I have used.

[Tom Ewell]

Carnauba and buffer (Beall sells the wax bar for $6), will need to mitigate any fly off from the buffer.

Just curious, are they depending on you to advise for a DIY or are you obligated to maintain the table?

I'd point them to a couple of solutions and let them decide how they want to maintain their table.

[lowell holmes]

Renaissance wax is good, it does have an odor. I use Johnson's on my table saw. I never thought about the odor. How heavy do you apply it.

If I was applying a wax finish, I would definitely use Renaissance. I use it on the dining room table. I've never had any complaints about odor.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Try making your own...

Marvin, you are an ambitious man!! Great information in your post- thank you. The problem is I'm too lazy to go to the trouble. ;-)


Just curious, are they depending on you to advise for a DIY or are you obligated to maintain the table?

I'd point them to a couple of solutions and let them decide how they want to maintain their table.

Well, I guess I'm trying to push them to keep up on maintenance. He's my best friend (best man at my wedding) and I made the table as a wedding gift for them out of some walnut that came from a tree his father had taken down from his childhood home, not long before his dad was killed in a cycling accident. So my point is that the table has huge sentimental value, and I put lots of blood/sweat/tears into it. I love looking the table over every time I visit their home, and I noticed the top was getting a bit dull. So I suggested we wax the table and that I would show him how to do it.

There's no obligation or anything like that. We all just have lots of emotional attachment to the table and I want to see it last their lifetime. They don't know how to maintain the table, and their baby makes a giant mess every time she eats there. So I want to keep it protected.


How heavy do you apply it.

Tough to describe. I guess I put a moderate amount on, but most of it gets removed when I buff it out. I could probably apply it more lightly, but even the odor from opening the can is a bit strong.

I went ahead and ordered the Staples 211- I'll let you guys know how it compares to Johnson's. Thanks everybody!

[Tom Ewell]

Well, I guess I'm trying to push them to keep up on maintenance. He's my best friend (best man at my wedding) and I made the table as a wedding gift for them out of some walnut that came from a tree his father had taken down from his childhood home, not long before his dad was killed in a cycling accident. So my point is that the table has huge sentimental value, and I put lots of blood/sweat/tears into it. I love looking the table over every time I visit their home, and I noticed the top was getting a bit dull. So I suggested we wax the table and that I would show him how to do it.

There's no obligation or anything like that. We all just have lots of emotional attachment to the table and I want to see it last their lifetime. They don't know how to maintain the table, and their baby makes a giant mess every time she eats there. So I want to keep it protected.

Nice, I done some of those my self. Understand the kid thing, I've had some of the stuff find it's way back to the shop to get repaired but I do remind them how to maintain. Teach them well.

[Stanley Thigpen]

I rather like the smell of Johnson's Paste Wax.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I rather like the smell of Johnson's Paste Wax.

You mean kind of in the same way that people often like the smell of gasoline? haha

I doubt you're rubbing it on your neck before a night out to get the essence of paste wax!! ;):p

[Peter Quinn]

I made a walnut wine rack a few years back and debated a finish for some time. Traditional wine racks are unfinished, no need to out stink into wine. But this piece could easily have been repurposed, might not be relegated to cellar storage ( though it was part of an interesting auction where it came with 60+ bottles of wine....so it was probably going toehold wine for at least a little while). I wound up making a paste of pure bees wax and walnut oil. I gave the whole piece maybe 5 coats of walnut oil over several weeks, it's actually a drying oil like tung oil which makes an excellent finish for food grade items. Unless apparently you are alegeric to walnuts....but then you probably don't want to out the wood in your mouth either. Last coat was beeswax melted into warm walnut oil, forget the ratio but a Google search yielded a good recipe, they were all pretty similar. It gave it that beautiful classic satin buffed wax look, totally edible too!