Cherry Table Top Durability

[Anthony Brown]

I am looking to make a kitchen/dining table out of 8/4 Cherry (the finished thickness will actually be 8/4, not 7/4 or 6/4). We were originally looking at Hickory or Walnut, but Hickory is not available in 8/4 without gluing up, which I really don't want, and the Walnut is ridiculously expensive. I realize that the Janka hardness difference between Cherry and Walnut is basically nonexistent, but I would have asked this question about the Walnut as well had we gone that route. The Hickory is a non-issue, as I know it's plenty durable enough.

I just want to know if the experts on here feel that an 8/4 Cherry table top will be durable enough for day-to-day dining? I do have 3 kids, but my youngest is 7, and all of my kids are past that stage where they will be stabbing the table with forks, banging stuff on it, etc... I am sure the table will get a little "abuse" and some spills, but I kind of feel that tables take a bit less of a beating than most people think they do.

Another limiting factor for me is that it's really tough to find a good hardwood in a true 8/4 where I live (Metro Detroit, MI). Most places want to glue up 2 4/4's, but that's more expensive and then I have the task of having to veneer to hide the glue lines that I don't want to see.

What is the opinion of everyone on here? Any help given is much appreciated.

Thanks!

[Jamie Buxton]

Cherry will be plenty strong. One good thing about making the piece from solid lumber is that if it does get beat up, you can always sand it down and re-varnish it.

[Randy Red Bemont]

Cherry will be fine for the top. As for the nicks and dings, that is character. It gives the table a little history. 8/4 will give your table a chunky look if that's what your going for. Don't forget the cherry will darken so don't leave place mats and so forth on it especially when it is new. Good luck. Sounds like a fun build.

Red

[ALAN HOLLAR]

My father built a cherry drop leaf table for my wife and me for our 1st anniversary. I finished it with a urethane lacquer from Chemical Coatings, and we used it every day for 25 years, then passed it on to our son who is using it today. The only issue is some slight rust on the hinges.

[David Hawxhurst]

i can get 8/4 rough hickory around me. my sister has a cherry dining table, she got it about 5 yrs ago and seems to be doing just fine. they finished it with pure tung oil, still not convinced this was the best finish choice but seems to be working for them. so our finish thickness will be 2" which is pretty thick, you're probably looking to buy 10/4 to start with.

[John TenEyck]

2" thick. Wow, that will be one heavy beast and a waste of wood IMO. Why not make it from 5/4 stock, double it along the sides to get your 2", and then attach 2" breadboard ends. It would use a lot less wood and be a far easier to move around in the shop.

John

[Prashun Patel]

Your kids are not past the worst of their damaging phase: the biggest damage my kids do to my cherry kitchen table is with pencils and pens. "Engraved grafitti" doesn't have the same quaint charm that fork and knife dings have. So, be prepared for that.

Think hard about your choice of 8/4. It'll be trickier to flatten and work with than thinner stock. Also, take a good look at pictures with 8/4 tables and be sure you are after that massive look.

[Anthony Brown]

WOW! Thanks for all of the replies guys. Yeah, I have done a ton of research and we definitely like the thicker look of 7/4 or 8/4 tables. I realize it will be heavy, but that is the look that we both like. As far as homework, we already have that covered, the kids will have desks that they can use when it comes time to get homework done so the table doesn't get unnecessarily marked up.

So from what I gather is that the Cherry durability seems to be mostly a non-issue, it's more the thickness that people are concerned about?

We really have our hearts set on at least 7/4 or 8/4 lumber, as we do like that thick look. Our only other option for solid lumber is 4/4 which I feel is just too thin for the look we want to achieve.

[Mike Ontko]

"Engraved grafitti" doesn't have the same quaint charm that fork and knife dings have.

That's priceless, Prashun :)

I currently have a commercially-built dining table (http://www.scan-design.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sm19-66-cherry-dining.jpg) (Scan Design) with a cherry veneer top that's holding up pretty well, though it doesn't get nearly the same kind of wear and tear that you're going to be experiencing for the next few years (we're empty nesters with "kids" that are at or past college age).

Part of the durabilty you're looking for will come from the finish that's applied. For example, a combination of a shellac sealer and poly top coat will hold up much better then an oil and wax combination for the kind of use and abuse you can expect.

Back to the issue of wood hardness...during the kid's formative years, we had a simple rectangular white oak dining table with a center leaf insert. It was finished with a very light amber stain or shellac, top coated with semi-gloss poly of some sort. It was super durable and resisted almost everything but water rings and burns. Never a mark from color crayons, finger paints, water based markers, and Play Doh!

p.s. the thickness you're looking for doesn't have to come from solid 8/4 construction. If you look at the picture I'd linked to, what appears to be a 1-1/2" top is really a 1/4" veneer strip that's glued at a mitered angle (and supported with a backing strip) to a 3/4" veneer/ply top. So, if you're creative with edge banding or moldings, you don't necessarily have to build your top from full-thickness lumber.

[Daniel Hartmann]

It sounds like you are planning to buy 8/4 lumber and make the top, rough lumber, and especially cherry, will not necessarily be flat and strait. Just keep that in mind. Cherry especially in longer lengths will have some twist or bow due to the way most cherry trees grow. My kitchen table is cherry and 8' long. I started with 8/4 rough and ended up with 1.25" thick top.

[David Zaret]

anthony, we have a good woodworker's group here in southeast michigan - consider coming to one of the meetings. we can help with sourcing lumber, and general tips and tricks. guys even share shops and such as the need arises. semiww.org is the site.

-- dz

[Mike Schuch]

If it were me I would use 4/4 stock and glue a 2" wide 4/4 thick apron all around the edge. It will give you the look of thickness you want without the weight. I have done several glue ups like this and to me the glue line disappears after your route the edge.

If you did want a full 8/4 thickness for the whole table I would still laminate 2 pieces together. The resulting top will be much more stable and resistant to bowing.

I have considered making a kitchen table out of Ipe... it would be pretty much indestructible not to mention beautiful!

[Jerry Olexa]

Solid cherry top would be excellent and durable..It will mellow with age and darken slightly..great choice!!!!

[Brian Tymchak]

... we definitely like the thicker look of 7/4 or 8/4 tables. I realize it will be heavy, but that is the look that we both like. ...

We really have our hearts set on at least 7/4 or 8/4 lumber, as we do like that thick look.


Anthony, it seems that the look is what you are most interested in. So just to echo what John and Prashun have said.. that thicker look can be attained without the extra cost, extra weight, and extra work of actually using 8/4 lumber. But, having said that, if your heart is set on having a 1 3/4" thick top, go for it.

[Anthony Brown]

It seems like most are more a proponent of gluing up pieces rather than going the solid route. If that's the case, my wife really wanted Hickory and I can go to a local place here and get a bunch of straight pre-planed S4S pieces that are .75" and glue them up to get to 6/4. Would that be the better route to go? I already calculated the cost and it's not going to be too bad.

My biggest issue is not wanting to see the glue line. No matter how faint it is, I am pretty picky and I'd want to veneer it. With the table look we are going for, I don't want a thick band all the way around the table covering the glue line, only a thin veneer if I have to go that route.

An example of what we are kind of trying to achieve is below. Throw the thickness of the table below out the window, just focus on the style and construction. That is similar to what we want.

http://images.custommade.com/QwmfIcpxMWvRR8TNNDblAjpX4Sk=/custommade-photosets/35805/35805.151537.jpg

BTW, the overwhelming amount of replies and help so far is greatly appreciated. You guys are great and are helping me a lot!

[Jerry Olexa]

If that is the look you want, then I would go solid wood..Be a little expensive, but be patient and search for the thicker stock..You'll be disappointed otherwise I sense. Just my humble opinion...

[Anthony Brown]

If that is the look you want, then I would go solid wood..Be a little expensive, but be patient and search for the thicker stock..You'll be disappointed otherwise I sense. Just my humble opinion...

That's kind of how I feel, but then again, I am no expert on best practices, so that is why I may be open to go a different route if people think the solid 8/4 stock is going to cause that much of an issue.

[Jim Dwight]

I built my son and daughter a kitchen table and 4 chairs when they graduated from college and were setting up an apartment (before they bought houses). My son's is oak. My daughters is cherry. When she got married, she got a cherry bedroom set. She likes cherry. She is also easier on things than my son. They don't have kids, yet, but I am sure it will work fine.

On the other hand, if you wife really wants hickory, I think it would fit the design of the table better. Cherry is a wood for somewhat fancy sometimes delicate furniture to me. Hickory is more rustic feeling. I wouldn't worry too much about glue lines. You might want to try for a decent color match if you won't be staining but other than that and getting the joint tight, I wouldn't worry about it. If you get the color matched, it will not be very visible. You could also miter the joint of the top to the apron (I'd probably use 3/4-1 inch hickory it is both hard and heavy) to hide the joint. That would let you make the apparent thickness 3 inches or so - that's what the picture looks like. You could wrap a top with 3 inch wide pieces, in other words, mitered to the top. The bottom could be about anything - who looks. That would fit the design yet not waste a bunch of material or give you a hernia moving it. If you use cherry, I'd probably get a lower grade with some sap wood and even knots in it to make it more rustic in appearance.

[Anthony Brown]

I built my son and daughter a kitchen table and 4 chairs when they graduated from college and were setting up an apartment (before they bought houses). My son's is oak. My daughters is cherry. When she got married, she got a cherry bedroom set. She likes cherry. She is also easier on things than my son. They don't have kids, yet, but I am sure it will work fine.

On the other hand, if you wife really wants hickory, I think it would fit the design of the table better. Cherry is a wood for somewhat fancy sometimes delicate furniture to me. Hickory is more rustic feeling. I wouldn't worry too much about glue lines. You might want to try for a decent color match if you won't be staining but other than that and getting the joint tight, I wouldn't worry about it. If you get the color matched, it will not be very visible. You could also miter the joint of the top to the apron (I'd probably use 3/4-1 inch hickory it is both hard and heavy) to hide the joint. That would let you make the apparent thickness 3 inches or so - that's what the picture looks like. You could wrap a top with 3 inch wide pieces, in other words, mitered to the top. The bottom could be about anything - who looks. That would fit the design yet not waste a bunch of material or give you a hernia moving it. If you use cherry, I'd probably get a lower grade with some sap wood and even knots in it to make it more rustic in appearance.

The most that I want to go on table thickness is 2". That table in the example that I gave was just for visual style reference. 3" is too thick to me. I would prefer to stay in the 6/4-8/4 range for the top thickness. That is why I was asking about gluing up 2 pieces of .75" Hickory instead of going with a solid 8/4 piece of Cherry. If weight is a factor, then it still seems like glued up 6/4 Hickory is going to be a lot heavier than 8/4 Cherry because Hickory is so much more dense.

Not sure what I should do at this point, especially given that people say that glued up pieces have less of a tendency to cup and bow.

[Brian Holcombe]

You will have to build a system to batten the table...such as what was done here by an unknown shaker over 200 years ago;

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/images/h2/h2_66.10.1.jpg

I did a similar take on it here for this coffee table. The battens which legs will be attached to eventually and the breadboard ends are attached with sliding dovetails. The top has been sitting around waiting for me to complete a project....and is still flat.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/Woodwork/609B4AC7-6F1E-4915-AE1A-96F80D6B7B65_zpslldspoyq.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/Woodwork/609B4AC7-6F1E-4915-AE1A-96F80D6B7B65_zpslldspoyq.jpg.html)

^ This table is cherry, I started with 5/4 I think it's 1" thick~

For a table with breadboard ends, 6/4 is probably about the top end of the range. For a table without, but with heavy battens I might chose 8/4.

[John TenEyck]

I digress, but is your shop floor carpeted Brian? How in the world to you keep it clean? I'd have paint and dye spatters and spills all over it, to say nothing of sawdust and shavings permanently embedded in it. I'm in awe.

John

[Anthony Brown]

So it is sounding more and more like I may have to head down the 3/4 glued up to 6/4 route in order to get the look that I want. 8/4 sounds like it may be too much, and I know we would still be happy with 6/4. Just have to figure out what to do about the glue lines and still get the look that I want. There are some methods that have been mentioned in this thread; maybe I will have to modify them to still get the look that I want.

[Brian Holcombe]

Face glued? I'm confused as to why you have to face glue the table top to make the thickness?

Hah, John....it takes a special sort of OCD.

[Anthony Brown]

Face glued? I'm confused as to why you have to face glue the table top to make the thickness?

Hah, John....it takes a special sort of OCD.

Yes, because this is the look that I am going for: http://images.custommade.com/QwmfIcpxMWvRR8TNNDblAjpX4Sk=/custommade-photosets/35805/35805.151537.jpg

I really don't want any kind of borders or aprons around the edge of the table top. Maybe I am missing something else that you guys are trying to explain. I am probably nowhere near the level that you guys are at. I don't know any other way to achieve this look (not including using aprons) other than face gluing the boards or getting solid lumber. I don't mind the table top being a bit heavy if I can get the look I am after.

My local lumber yards don't even stock enough 4/4 Hickory lumber for me to do a 2" apron around the whole thing even if I wanted to. That is another reason why I was looking to go the 3/4 face glued to 6/4 route. I can find enough 3/4 Hickory if necessary.

[whit richardson]

About the various finishes... have just spent a week in a refinishing class (I'm no expert) with a professional custom cabinet and furniture builder I learned that if you want to use a solid durable long lasting finish for kitchen furniture professionals always go with a KCMA standard approved finishes. Likely going to be a Cat-Lacquer or catalyzed conversion finish. They look great and hold up.

[Mike Schuch]

Yes, because this is the look that I am going for: http://images.custommade.com/QwmfIcpxMWvRR8TNNDblAjpX4Sk=/custommade-photosets/35805/35805.151537.jpg

I really don't want any kind of borders or aprons around the edge of the table top. Maybe I am missing something else that you guys are trying to explain. I am probably nowhere near the level that you guys are at. I don't know any other way to achieve this look (not including using aprons) other than face gluing the boards or getting solid lumber. I don't mind the table top being a bit heavy if I can get the look I am after.

My local lumber yards don't even stock enough 4/4 Hickory lumber for me to do a 2" apron around the whole thing even if I wanted to. That is another reason why I was looking to go the 3/4 face glued to 6/4 route. I can find enough 3/4 Hickory if necessary.

Yep, now that I see what you are trying to accomplish I can see an apron would not be appropriate. I would still consider laminating 2 boards together to get the thickness you want. 2 boards laminated together will be more stable (less bowing and twisting) than a single thick board. But that is just my opinion.

[Anthony Brown]

Yep, now that I see what you are trying to accomplish I can see an apron would not be appropriate. I would still consider laminating 2 boards together to get the thickness you want. 2 boards laminated together will be more stable (less bowing and twisting) than a single thick board. But that is just my opinion.

And your opinion matters. You guys have already convinced me to go that route when I was thisclose to buying solid 8/4 stock. I appreciate all of the help for sure!

[Brian Holcombe]

Anthony, my honest recommendation is to find a yard which can provide what you are looking for, to make that table it looks like you will need 10/4 lumber.....however I think you would be better served sizing it down a hair to 8/4 thickness since it appears that the table you want to build is built of a softwood, so even at 10/4 thickness it's not super heavy.

The top is likely not glued up but looks like three separate planks. The breadboard ends are there to help keep the tabletop flat.

You may be best served making that table in a softwood, sure it will dent easier, but judging by what your goal is that may be exactly what you are looking for.

[Anthony Brown]

Anthony, my honest recommendation is to find a yard which can provide what you are looking for, to make that table it looks like you will need 10/4 lumber.....however I think you would be better served sizing it down a hair to 8/4 thickness since it appears that the table you want to build is built of a softwood, so even at 10/4 thickness it's not super heavy.

The top is likely not glued up but looks like three separate planks. The breadboard ends are there to help keep the tabletop flat.

You may be best served making that table in a softwood, sure it will dent easier, but judging by what your goal is that may be exactly what you are looking for.

Hey Brian, I apologize, I had stated in an earlier post that the image I posted was just for the style and to ignore the thickness of that table. We are not looking for a 10/4 table at all. 8/4 or even 6/4 would be appropriate for us. I have contacted all of the lumber yards within 2+ hours of me, and none of them have the thickness of lumber that I need except one that has 8/4 Cherry. No one really carries Hickory like that anymore around here except for a place that has S4S 3/4 Hickory that I can buy and laminate.

It sounds like your suggestion either way is to go solid and not laminate, is that correct?

[John TenEyck]

Good grief that is a massive table. But to get that look I think you do need solid stock. Glad I don't have to pay for 10/4 cherry or try to schlep it around in the shop. And if you make it that rustic there will be no need to worry about the kids beating it up. You may even want to ask them to have it before you put the finish on it. Good luck.

John

[Brian Holcombe]

Anthony, unless you really want a workout I would pass on hickory. Just my personal opinion but cherry does not do well for this kind of table, I would pick a wood more suitable to a rustic type of table.

Figure that is 36" ~ wide.....each board being about 12" wide....no chance I would want to do 12" wide face laminations unless you are either very capable with your jointer plane or jointer machine.

So, yes, solid wood definetly. My vote is to build it just as it looks currently and in a softwood like cedar. Building a table of that style in 6/4 would be a non-starter for me, the thin top would disappoint on a base that heavy.

[Anthony Brown]

Good grief that is a massive table. But to get that look I think you do need solid stock. Glad I don't have to pay for 10/4 cherry or try to schlep it around in the shop. And if you make it that rustic there will be no need to worry about the kids beating it up. You may even want to ask them to have it before you put the finish on it. Good luck.

John

LOL, I keep throwing everyone off. That picture is just for the visual of the style of table. I am not looking for a 10/4 thick table. 6/4 would suit us just fine, just in a similar style to the table in the image. And yeah, I am definitely going to let the kids have at the table to give it some more character, whatever direction I choose to go in, lol!


Anthony, unless you really want a workout I would pass on hickory. Just my personal opinion but cherry does not do well for this kind of table, I would pick a wood more suitable to a rustic type of table.

Figure that is 36" ~ wide.....each board being about 12" wide....no chance I would want to do 12" wide face laminations unless you are either very capable with your jointer plane or jointer machine.

So, yes, solid wood definetly. My vote is to build it just as it looks currently and in a softwood like cedar. Building a table of that style in 6/4 would be a non-starter for me, the thin top would disappoint on a base that heavy.

Yeah, I can see that with the Cherry. It is more of a "refined" wood for lack of a better word. I'm not sure about using Cedar. I don't really like the look of it and neither does my wife. I can adjust the dimensions of the base to fit a thinner stock, because you are right it's too thick for a 6/4 top.

What if I decided to pony up the extra money and go with something like a Walnut? It has a more rustic grain than Cherry, but it's a lot less dense than Hickory?

If not, then I guess I have some more thinking to do....

[Brian Holcombe]

Unless you distress the table and use something to create the antique look than most woods are going to look very refined except those with with rustic grain patterns.

What I'm trying to say above, in my opinion that table won't scale well in thickness. You can make everything thinner, but it's designed to be thick. I'd keep it heavy, obviously if you use hardwood you can probably scale it back to 8/4, but that would be as thin as I would go.

Tables of that medieval style would probably have been made (historically) out of pine, white oak, white ash, or something in that range of woods. I'd stick with that, I know you're not likely aiming at a historic reproduction, but choosing the accurate wood would do better for you in making a cohesive design.

[Anthony Brown]

Unless you distress the table and use something to create the antique look than most woods are going to look very refined except those with with rustic grain patterns.

What I'm trying to say above, in my opinion that table won't scale well in thickness. You can make everything thinner, but it's designed to be thick. I'd keep it heavy, obviously if you use hardwood you can probably scale it back to 8/4, but that would be as thin as I would go.

Tables of that medieval style would probably have been made (historically) out of pine, white oak, white ash, or something in that range of woods. I'd stick with that, I know you're not likely aiming at a historic reproduction, but choosing the accurate wood would do better for you in making a cohesive design.

Ah, ok, I gotcha. Yeah, it looks like I have some more thinking to do I guess. Gotta try to figure out where I want to go from here, as I would like to get started fairly soon.

[Mike Berrevoets]

Did you try johnsons lumber in Charlotte? They have a pretty good selection and their prices are right online in the link below. Looks like they list 8/4 hickory. I'd call first to see if they have it in stock.

http://theworkbench.com/hardwood.php

plus they have a nice price break at 100 bf (mix and match) and will do machining pretty reasonably.

No affiliation, I just buy lumber there. It's an hour drive for me one way but it's still worth it. I just make sure I buy more than I need when I go.

[Anthony Brown]

Did you try johnsons lumber in Charlotte? They have a pretty good selection and their prices are right online in the link below. Looks like they list 8/4 hickory. I'd call first to see if they have it in stock.

http://theworkbench.com/hardwood.php

plus they have a nice price break at 100 bf (mix and match) and will do machining pretty reasonably.

No affiliation, I just buy lumber there. It's an hour drive for me one way but it's still worth it. I just make sure I buy more than I need when I go.

Thanks, I will give them a call. It would be like a 2+ hour drive for me, but may be worth it if they have what I need at a reasonable price.

[Mike Berrevoets]

Another option for finding local lumber is craigslist. I usually search under "materials" with keywords lumber or hardwood lumber. On the west side of the state there are a few places that carry some stock so it's not just someone's leftover 2x material they are trying to unload. (But there are plenty of those sellers too....)

I did a quick search in metro Detroit and a few popped up that looked somewhat promising. Of course it's craigslist and not as convienant or reliable as a retail store but it is another option that might work out in some cases.

[Frank Drew]

IMO, face gluing 4/4 material to make up the thickness you want, or applying an edge all around to simulate that thickness, are both much more work than using thick stock to begin with. For something that might well be with your family for years, even decades, I'd spend the extra time to get the wood you really want, even if it means traveling some distance to get it. I've driven 6+ hours round trip on more than one occasion when what I needed wasn't available locally. And there's always the option of truck freight which will cost but save you the time.

[Anthony Brown]

IMO, face gluing 4/4 material to make up the thickness you want, or applying an edge all around to simulate that thickness, are both much more work than using thick stock to begin with. For something that might well be with your family for years, even decades, I'd spend the extra time to get the wood you really want, even if it means traveling some distance to get it. I've driven 6+ hours round trip on more than one occasion when what I needed wasn't available locally. And there's always the option of truck freight which will cost but save you the time.

Thanks Frank. You are 100% on point with this. It's almost like you read my mind.

I'd like to thank everyone for their help in my thread, it was much appreciated! Special thanks to a few of my Michigan brothers (otherwise known as Michiganders) that came in here and offered some advice and help as well. Mike Berrevoets mentioned L.L. Johnson's Lumber as a source for what I need, so I decided to get up this morning at 8:30 am and give them a call. After speaking with one of the guys at L.L. Johnson's on the phone I decided to make the 2+ hour trip to Charlotte, MI to pick up some Hickory. I have been dealing with a ton of d-ba(not-so-nice people) lately, and I am glad to say that it was refreshing to deal with the guys at L.L. Johnson's Lumber. They were ALL probably some of the coolest and most helpful people I have dealt with. Those guys took great care of me and my son and I will do business with them again in the future for sure (will probably have the lumber shipped next time).

At the end of the day I got exactly what I wanted and I am glad that I made the trip. I would not have been happy with glued-up boards, as my heart was set on solid lumber. I came home with about 70 board feet of some awesome-looking 8/4 Hickory that was planed down to 6/4, and again, that was the perfect decision. 8/4 was too thick for me and 4/4 was too thin, so 6/4 is a happy medium.

I can now FINALLY commence with actually building my project instead racking my brain trying to source it.

Thanks again for all of you guys help, but you aren't out of the woods yet. I am sure I will be back in a week or two with some finishing questions, lol!

[Prashun Patel]

Awesome. Glad u got what you need. One but of advice more: let it acclimate in your shop before final planing and cutting I dimension.

[Mike Berrevoets]

I'm glad you found what you were looking for.

I don't know how their delivery works exactly. I always thought that was for shops that had a loading dock. They used to have a store in Grand Rapids and I could order from Charlotte and have it machined and delivered to GR. But they pulled that store about 10 years ago. Now I just get up early on a Saturday, grab a couple donuts and I'm there when they open the doors. Back home with plenty of time to get some work/fun done.

[Keith Weber]

Did I just see a picture of a carpeted shop floor?????

[Brian Holcombe]

Great news! Now.....I hope I'm not alone here when I say I would like to see some photos as you progress through your project :)


Did I just see a picture of a carpeted shop floor?????

Indeed, you have.

[lawrence dosson]

Anthony
glad you got the lumber covered I do not know which direction you are from Detroit area these might be closer to you ?
there is a guy at Lapeer that sells a lot of lumber pretty sure he will cut and dry most any size boards from a lot of different kinds of wood I believe he goes buy pollens resources
he has a web sight I am just a customer not affiliated
also the thumb area has a ton of Amish saw mills
I live just west of port huron and often go to the Amish guys for the odd board
some of them have kiln dried some just off the mill

[Gregory Stahl]

I use knotty alder on a regular basis to make furniture/cabinets like you shared. No doubt--hickory will be much stronger though. You'll have to share pictures when you are done!

Best,
Greg Stahl

[Phil Mueller]

Anthony, have you tried Armstrong Millworks in Milford?

[Anthony Brown]

Great news! Now.....I hope I'm not alone here when I say I would like to see some photos as you progress through your project :)

Indeed, you have.

Absolutely, I will post pictures of my progress for sure. What I am doing is fairly simple and I am sure it's nothing you guys haven't seen before. I am going to start taking pictures today!


Anthony
glad you got the lumber covered I do not know which direction you are from Detroit area these might be closer to you ?
there is a guy at Lapeer that sells a lot of lumber pretty sure he will cut and dry most any size boards from a lot of different kinds of wood I believe he goes buy pollens resources
he has a web sight I am just a customer not affiliated
also the thumb area has a ton of Amish saw mills
I live just west of port huron and often go to the Amish guys for the odd board
some of them have kiln dried some just off the mill

I am in the Macomb/Clinton Township area. I usually go to Public Lumber in Detroit, but their 8/4 stock is basically nonexistant.


Anthony, have you tried Armstrong Millworks in Milford?

Never heard of them and they never even popped up on any of my internet searches. Thanks for giving me their name! Milford is definitely closer than Charlotte and it looks like they have a pretty good selection of lumber too. I will file them away and keep them in mind for my next project!

EDIT:

I also have a quick question for everyone. I have a knot in a piece of one of my planks. I actually like how you can see down in the knot and I'd like to fill it with epoxy but leave it clear. Would this look strange when stained and finished? Should I just go ahead and mix some pigment into the epoxy when I fill the knot instead of leaving it clear?

Actually, would leaving the knot as-is and not filing it in at all hurt anything? It would still get coated in some varnish/shellac/whatever I use once it comes time to finish the top.

[bill tindall]

A few hundred year experience with the use of walnut and cherry (check your antique stores) suggest it works fine for tables. Our cherry table is 115 years old. Of course if your children are unruly, then something from Ikea might be in order. A hard tough finish will go a long way toward protecting the wood.

[Phil Mueller]

If it's the top, I would think it might fill with food/crumbs if not filled.