Router table on end of SawStop

[Russell Stanton]

I just got a new 3HP PCS SawStop with 36" rip capacity. I am putting my router table at right end in place of the extension table provided with the saw. I have 2 questions

1. Is it better to leave the router teble just a wee bit shy of even with the top of the saw table rather than try for exactly even and then overshoot?

2. What is your opinion of the blade that comes with the saw, good enough until I get a WW II?

TIA

[Wade Lippman]

Mine is 3 years old, so it might not be the same, but...
1) I made mine even. Wasn't difficult; why would you overshoot?
2) My blade was okay, but I replaced it with a Freud combination.

[Jon Nuckles]

No tips on question 1, but definitely buy a better blade.

[Harvey Miller]

I consider the stock blade 'construction grade'.

[Peter Aeschliman]

1. I agree with Wade... just get it level- take your time and you will get there. But if you're off by a little in iether direction, it will have almost no effect on the cutting angle that far away from the blade. So try to get it flush, but don't sweat it at all if you are a few thousandths off.

2. When I got my SS a number of years ago, it came with a mediocre blade, but also came with a few of those gold colored ones (which they had as a promotion). The gold colored ones are nice blades. But if they don't come with their nicer blades, then yeah, spring for the WWII.

[Steve Wilde]

Russell,
I too have a 3Hp PCS with a 36" table and a router table built into the right side. I added a sawstop cast iron extension wing between the router table and the sawstop, making ro one large piece of cast iron. My router table is a bench dog table, with an incra Mastr 2 lift in it. I posted pictures in another thread, I'll try and find it for you. All my wings are mounted level, so there are no edges to catch on and the fence slides across just fine. As to the blade, i never actually tried the stock blade, I sprung for a WWII. I actually bought a 40 tooth and a WWII rip blade as well. No complaints!
Here is a link the previous thread with pics. If you have any questions feel free to ask.http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?234797-Sawstop-Pcs-BenchDog-Promax

[Russell Stanton]

Thanks for all the replies. I did the table level and even so that is all good. Will go with either Freud of WW II blade thinking of more of purpose made crosscut blade and then a purpose made rip blade to get the best cut quality. Any suggestions?

[glenn bradley]

My RT is even with the saw but, on the left. As to blades, my methods don't allow for a one-blade-does-it-all approach. Ripping 8/4 hardwood or crosscutting Peruvian walnut are neither jobs for all-in-one blades but, for truly "general purpose" stuff, they're great.

I do use a 40 tooth "general purpose" blade for breaking things down and a 50 tooth combo blade that does very well at combination tasks. Both are from our own Tom Waltz (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?9338-Tom-Walz) at Carbide Processors (http://www.carbideprocessors.com/Carbide-Processors/Worlds-Best-Saw-Blades/). I can't say enough good about the company or their products.

[Russell Stanton]

Glen what do you use for dedicated crosscut and dedicated rip?