Prevent Oxidation on Steel?

[Andrew Helman]

I've got some raw steel polished to be distressed; these are legs for a table. I want to prevent oxidation. What's easy and effective for someone without a spray gun--and what'll cure and be usable quick? I've heard of Rustoleum enamel in a clear from a spray can. Clear lacquer in a spray can? Open to suggestions.

Thank you.

[Allan Speers]

Your big problem is that table legs will likely get dinged a lot. Therefore I'd use something like laquer, as you can easily touch it up. (It melts into itself.) Many other finishes are tougher, but can't easily be fixed up.

Couldn't you just start with stainless steel, or maybe aluminum?

[Andrew Helman]

Could've, yes. I bought the legs and read "steel" but didn't digest the word "stainless" wasn't there. Anything I should know about using a spray lacquer for this application? Any favorites for brands?

Thank you.
Andrew


Your big problem is that table legs will likely get dinged a lot. Therefore I'd use something like laquer, as you can easily touch it up. (It melts into itself.) Many other finishes are tougher, but can't easily be fixed up.

Couldn't you just start with stainless steel, or maybe aluminum?

[Bill White]

Whatever you use, the steel will have to be cleaned well to remove any oils, dirt, etc.
Wipe the legs with acetone or naptha, then clear coat. I'd use Rustloeum. Sheen of your choice. Clear satin, gloss, flat, etc.
Bill

[John TenEyck]

As a follow up, wear gloves when you clean it and at all times afterwards until the lacquer is on it. If you don't, the salt on your fingers will show up months later under the lacquer. Of course, if you want to leave a forensic signature that's a good way to do it.

John

[Dave Cullen]

I have yet to find any clear finish that will prevent steel from rusting long term. Consider plating, powder coat or primer and paint. Just my opinion.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I've heard of Rustoleum enamel in a clear from a spray canYes - use the 100% acrylic clear. It's good stuff & crystal clear. Tougher than iron ( and/or lacquer)
Don't be mislead by the acrylic. Usually acrylic is associated with water - but - acrylic resins are also produced that use heavy aromatic solvents, such as the Rustoleum product.
If I'm not mistaken, the Rustoleum product is a relable of someone else's product.

Follow Bill's advice and wipe the legs down with VMP Naphtha. Acetone may be too strong and may hurt the patina.....
Also follow John's advice about keeping your hands off the bare steel after cleaning.

[Mark Gibney]

Depending on what look you would like, there is another way to go.

You could use phosphoric acid, available cheaply under many brand names (try a good paint store), also as Naval Jelly at any corner hardware store.

You coat the steel parts in this product, either from a spray bottle or brush it on. Let it work for a couple of minutes and steel wool it off. Work you way down to OOOO wool and it's look good. The acid forms an oxidized layer that can vary from invisible to blackish, and you can repeat until you get to what you want. I've found this protect steel pretty long term in typical home use.

[Prashun Patel]

Have you tried shellac? I have the same issue with a steel leg table I made for a neighbor last year. It's got light surface rusting that I've been meaning to polish off. Been thinking to spritz it with shellac after. I've heard shellac makes a good vapor barrier but I cannot vouch.

[Andrew Helman]

Thanks, Prashun. I didn't try that, but that would've been a good idea. It's for the table that I just completed. I was itchy for a quick answer and went with the first suggestion of lacquer because that seemed to make sense in that it can be repaired pretty easily and I was able to easily put my hands on some Deft gloss. Probably overkill, but I sprayed two cans of the stuff. We'll have to see how it weathers. I can always use lacquer thinner to remove it later, scrub the oxidation, and try another method (brushing or wiping, though, because the thing's inside and installed now).