Here's a simple jointer sled for a planer I made.

[Max Neu]

322459322458I had some wide gnarly boards I needed to flatten,so I decided it was time to make a jointer sled for my planer.I looked on the web for some ideas,but everything I was finding looked too heavy and bulky for my liking,so I decided to come up with something smaller and lightweight (relatively speaking).I thought i would share this in case some of you were thinking about making one that needs to flatten something wider than what you jointer will handle,or if you don't own a jointer,this may give you some ideas towards your jig.It's just a flat piece of 3/4" plywood with 1 1/4" x 11/16' hardwood around 1 side and end of the plywood.I used spurred threaded inserts countersunk,along with allen head set screws.I just set the board against the side and end piece,then reach under and turn the set screws until I can just feel them touch the board,then push the little side pieces against the board,and screw them down just for extra support.It's not necessary to use all the set screws,mainly just the high corners,and a few in the middle if necessary.I just installed plenty of inserts so it will handle about any size of board I need,within reason.I have ran about a dozen twisted boards with it so far,and they all came out dead flat!It does leave marks on the bottom side from the set screws,but they get planed off,so no harm,no foul there.Overall,Im pretty happy with the results,maybe some of you can take this and improve on it,just be sure to share with us the improvements.:)
BTW,I got the inserts and set screws from Lowes,so you should be able to get everything locally without having to order anything.

[David Eisenhauer]

Excellent idea. Any dimensions available for those of use who will shamelessly rob another man's ideas? On twisted, gnarly planks, I have been hand planning one side relatively flat, then flipping it over to get one good side to reference the hand planned side to. OK for small stuff, but sometimes too much in a hurry to use that method on large boards. Thanks for sharing.

[Max Neu]

Excellent idea. Any dimensions available for those of use who will shamelessly rob another man's ideas? On twisted, gnarly planks, I have been hand planning one side relatively flat, then flipping it over to get one good side to reference the hand planned side to. OK for small stuff, but sometimes too much in a hurry to use that method on large boards. Thanks for sharing.
David,
Mine measures 18" x 60",I have a 20" planer,so 18" makes it easy to get through with a little extra room for error.I spaced the inserts 2" on center side to side,and 8" on center front to back.If I was to make it over again,I would put the inserts closer together front to back,maybe 5" on center?I do find I occasionally need to add a shim to the end of a board if lands between 2 sets of inserts,so spacing them closer would eliminate some of that.

[Andrew Joiner]

Hi Max.
When you say "reach under and turn the set screws until I can just feel them touch the board." do you reach under the board or the sled?

[Max Neu]

Andrew,
I reach under the sled.That's what makes this design lighter and more compact because you don't have to build everything up in order to get access to all areas of the board to add shims.

[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks. Basically, the more/closer together the inserts - the more able to easily adjust for the size of the board to be jointed.

[Jake Hillestad]

David,
Mine measures 18" x 60",I have a 20" planer,so 18" makes it easy to get through with a little extra room for error.I spaced the inserts 2" on center side to side,and 8" on center front to back.If I was to make it over again,I would put the inserts closer together front to back,maybe 5" on center?I do find I occasionally need to add a shim to the end of a board if lands between 2 sets of inserts,so spacing them closer would eliminate some of that.

Max,

I really like the idea of this sled of yours. Before I build one - after a couple months of use now is there any glaring deficiency that you would change if you were to build another (other than the insert spacing)?

[Michael Stein]

I like this. Simple to build & looks pretty darn effective. I may have to add this to my list to shop projects.

[Floyd Mah]

Instead of trying to reach under the board, what you can do is modify the screws that you use to support the twisted board. You can either use a set screw or slot the screw. Place your insert into a through hole, and then you can adjust the screws from below with a small screw driver or a hex wrench (if you used a set screw). Another choice would be to counterbore the hole from the bottom so that the head of a regular screw will fit. Then you wouldn't need to slot the screw. I would flip the whole affair and advance the screws with light pressure to seat the screws.

Here's another idea: recess the insert so that a screw head, when not raised, will be below the surface. Then a screw with a large head, like a toilet bolt or T-track bolt, can be used to support the board.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I really like the idea, it seems solid and easy to use. I just might make one.... or two (of different lengths).

[chase standifer]

I built one as well however I used steel set screws instead of nylon. My set screws are backing out of the threaded inserts with the vibration of the planer. Anyone have a tip for making them a bit more snug?

[Jerry Thompson]

Teflon tape may work or lock tite.

[Chris Padilla]

I used spurred threaded inserts countersunk,along with allen head set screws.

Those are also known as T-Nuts. :) Nice job! :)

[Chris Padilla]

I built one as well however I used steel set screws instead of nylon. My set screws are backing out of the threaded inserts with the vibration of the planer. Anyone have a tip for making them a bit more snug?BLUE lock-tite will firm up the set screw since it fills in between the threads and does a better job of keeping the screw somewhat 'sticky' than teflon tape. Don't use the RED...you need heat to break that bond! :D

[chase standifer]

Yeah I am familiar with the red lol. Ill give the blue a try.

[Russel De Arman]

push the little side pieces against the board,and screw them down just for extra support

What holds these down? Are you screwing into the plywood base each time?
Thanks,
R

[Max Neu]

What holds these down? Are you screwing into the plywood base each time?
Thanks,
R

Initially I screwed them down to secure the board better,but now I don't even use them,I just set the board in the corner and run it through.

[Al Launier]

Love the concept - so practical & so easy to build. After spending mucho hours building this "beast" I think I'll build one like yours.
Thanks for the idea - brilliant

[David Utterback]

If the leading edge of the board is not supported, does the infeed planer roller cause the back end of the board to lift? Long, heavy pieces might be less prone to shifting. A wedge under the leading end might help if this is a problem.

[Michael Weber]

Love the concept - so practical & so easy to build. After spending mucho hours building this "beast" I think I'll build one like yours.
Thanks for the idea - brilliant. I have a sudden craving for bagels now;)

[David Utterback]

Meant to add that it is a great design and build. Thanks for making it available.

[Al Launier]

. I have a sudden craving for bagels now;)

:D These bagels are available at Lowes.

[Chris Fournier]

I wouldn't use a Loctite anaerobic type product because there are better anti vibration products. Check out this link: https://www.vibra-tite.com/product-category/threadlockers/

The VC anti vibration product explained at the right works really well on all sorts of applications.

[Al Launier]

Chris, great suggestion & it appears to be similar in concept to Nylock inserts once cured. Is it? And where would one get this? How often could it be re-used?
Thanks!