Drawer Case Build (Part 3)

[Daniel Rode]

It's been a month since I posted an update on the project. I've been busy with travel, work and family but I've been making progress a couple hours at a time.

Making the drawers is not particularly interesting. I milled and sized about 30 drawers sides, 15 drawer fronts and 15 backs.
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I did a test layout for the drawer bottom groove. I'm using through dovetails front and back with a groove that goes right through the tail. This is not an issue because the back is open and the front will get an applied face which will cover the groove.
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I lined the tail boards up by twos. This made layout and cutting faster.
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12 identical sets right off the saw. As I began the assembly, I pared the shoulders but they didn't need much work. I was able to get fairly close with the saw.
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Next I sized each drawer face to fit it's specific location. Next time, I'll make the drawer face a little taller. By the time I was done cleaning up, some ended up a bit smaller than I wanted. Close enough for the shop, but I was trying for better.
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As always, as soon as I finish, I have 10 ideas about how to do it better.

[Daniel Rode]

The drawers have been test fit, now I'm ready to plow the drawer bottom groove

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I use a wheel gauge to mark the top edge so I'm sure I get a clean edge.
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The I plow a 3/16 x 3/16 groove. I repeat this 36 times.
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The bottoms are simple pine and I fit them to the drawers, make a slot and add a screw and washer. These are small enough that a nail would have been fine but I went with screws anyway. It's the most humid part of the year here, so I left the bottoms as long as possible. I did not glue them into the front. I think they're fine loose. I can always change my mind later.
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[James Pallas]

Very nice Dan. Those cases are sometimes difficult to do with so many parts alike. To get everything sized just right is important because minor discrepancies will show.
Jim

[Daniel Rode]

I had some scrap cherry left over from another project, so I resawed it to about 3/16" and came up with enough for all the drawer fronts.

I used the "blue clamps" to get the fronts held in place, added some glue and then real clamps.
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Once the glue dried, it took some time to clean up all 4 edges and smooth the drawer fronts. Here's where it sits currently.
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I glued up a panel for the back. I plan to hang it on the wall using a french cleat but I'm also going to add some feet so it can sit on a counter as well. I looked at various knobs and pulls. The small brass pulls were OK, but too expensive to sit in the shop. I'm going to make my own pulls. I still mulling the design.

I'll have a few hours to work on it this weekend. I'm traveling all next week, so I may not get much done until mid October.

[Reinis Kanders]

Nice work!

[Jim Koepke]

Looks like a neat little cabinet.

jtk

[Stewie Simpson]

Excellent work Daniel.

Stewie;

[Brian Holcombe]

Nice work Daniel! The shop is looking sweet! Hopefully you will spoil us with some on-the-wall shots.

[Mike Allen1010]

Well done Daniel! Fitting all those flush fit drawers is no easy task and yours look great.

With quality work like this, it's only a matter of time until you're getting requests for stuff you won't be able to keep in the shop any more.

[Christopher Charles]

Looks great and thanks for taking the time to share! Interested to see the pulls that you settle on.

best
Chris

[Derek Cohen]

Looking good - clean and sharp. I like the drawer fronts.

Are you still planning to add legs and hang on the wall? One seems superfluous.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Daniel Rode]

I'm going to hang it on the wall, at least initially. The feet will be really basic so I thought I'd add them in case I want it to sit on a shelf at some later time. It's not any harder to add them later but the pine will darken over time so now feet wouldn't match.


Looking good - clean and sharp. I like the drawer fronts.

Are you still planning to add legs and hang on the wall? One seems superfluous.

Regards from Perth

Derek