Shelf Pin jig problems

[Chris E Smith]

I recently purchased a Woodpeckers shelf pin jig and a 1/4" Whiteside down cut spiral bit to use in my plunge router with a 3/8" template guide installed. I did a test piece to try out the jig and every hole I plunged was burned on the sides and produced a great deal of smoke. The holes are also oversize and 1/4" shelf pins I purchased from Woodcraft just drop into the holes rather than fit snugly. I thought my router might have too much runout but it seems to only be about .002" or less. The downcut bits are recommended by Woodpeckers but what I think is happening is the sawdust is getting trapped in the hole because there is little clearance for it to exit due to the template and the template guide around the router bit. I don't know if this explains why the holes are oversize unless the trapped sawdust is pushing the bit off center in the hole or just wallowing it out from friction.
The only solution I can think of is to try an upcut bit but I'm concerned about the loose pin fit. I tried just drilling a hole by hand and my pins fit nice and snug. The woodcraft pins are about .247" in diameter. I also made the mistake of buying some Pioneer shelf pins on Amazon and they were much looser at .242" and useless.
All of this has me seriously considering pilasters rather than shelf pins for my kitchen cabinet project but in the meantime I ordered an upcut spiral bit as well as a 1/4" snappy bit for the drill to try to figure out what the problem is. I had intended to use the router to plunge the holes because everything I have read says you get the best quality hole using a router.

I would appreciate any recommendations on what might be wrong in my setup. My wife is favoring pilasters
and they seem pretty bullet proof but shelf pins are so widely used I can't help but think there is a simple solution to make them work for me.

thanks

Chris

[Tom Ewell]

I use the upcut bit, have also found that not all 1/4" shelf pins fit, some loose, some snug, some too big for my bit.
The L shaped versions are fairly consistent in fit

Unfortunately I don't recall the vendor I used to get good straight pins. (bought in bulk some time ago and still have a batch left)

Also seem to be using 5mm more and more, with a metric jig one can also setup the holes for drawer slides and use 5mm system screws to attach.

[Jerome Stanek]

down cut is the wrong bit for that you need to clear the chips out of the hole

[Bruce Wrenn]

Up cut bit only here, either 5 mm, or 1/4."

[Chris E Smith]

Up cut bit only here, either 5 mm, or 1/4."

Thanks guys, I had a feeling it was the wrong bit. Woodpeckers has the wrong one specified in their literature and some of their dealers have links to the wrong bit on the page that shows the jig.

I think I will switch to 5mm and get an upcut bit and use the bracket pins as has been suggested. I don't see a compelling reason to switch to pilasters.
I may put a row of pin holes in the cabinet back to prevent sag in case we decide to store our dishes in them.

thanks

Chris

[Al Launier]

I'm confused as to why you are considering 5mm for a 1/4" pin. 5mm = 0.197", 1/4" = 0.250", while 6mm = 0.236"

[Chris E Smith]

I'm confused as to why you are considering 5mm for a 1/4" pin. 5mm = 0.197", 1/4" = 0.250", while 6mm = 0.236"

Sorry, I didn't say that clearly. I'm planning to switch to 5mm pins and holes since that's the euro standard.
Might as well since the cup hinges use 5mm screws.

[ian maybury]

Interestingly enough the demo video on YouTube just now https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46PU8Wd_VBM also mentions using a down cutting router bit.

It seems unlikely that a stock downcutting bit would be a good idea for boring blind holes in that there's nowhere for the chips to go. It might have less tendency to cause chipping around the entry - but it'd probably only get in a very short distance before plugging.

I've not tried them, but there's probably some point in investigating cutter types. Festool, Leitz etc make specialised and described as down cutting (but not the typical spiral format) router dowel drill bits for drilling clean high accuracy dowel and shelf pin holes with a router: https://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/routers/router-bits/8mm-shank/dowel-drilling-bits/ Or here: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/festool5mmdoweldrillrouterbit-8mmshank.aspx Leitz: http://lexicon.leitz.org/product.php?pgid=54957&itemid=25750&hasleafs=Y&chash=2505b5

This might explain Woodpeckers mentioning use of a down cutting bit….

[George Bokros]

I thought an upcutting bit can cause chip out on the top of the piece and that was why they recommend a downcutcutting.

[Chris E Smith]

I thought an upcutting bit can cause chip out on the top of the piece and that was why they recommend a downcutcutting.

Yes that is also my understanding about the down cut and chip out. It would probably work fine for a rabbet or dado but not so well in a blind hole through a template guide plus template.

Thanks Ian, I was not aware of those special bits for shelf pin holes.

Chris

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have always used drill bit with a lip to score the surface as it goes in.... it then clears the hole nicely.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=45534&cat=1,180,42240

I always use 1/4" because bigger is better if there will be weight.... not that I have had problems with the 5mm versions so perhaps I am just paranoid. when things really matter, I use Brusso Supports and Sleeves, but, they are very expensive and they use a different hole size so my shelf support jig will not work there.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=40484&cat=3,43648,43649&ap=1

I don't remember seeing these before, but they screw in to the threaded sleeves

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=40184&cat=3,43648,43649&ap=1

Rockler also seels shelf pin sleeves. I purchased mine at a local woodcraft.

I am surprised that they recommend a down bit in a captured hole.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

I've always used a downcut bit with a homemade jig to do my line boring. The key to minimize burning is to plunge very fast. You need a firm grip, and a fair amount of pressure, depending on the material. You need to plunge in and out of the hole in about 1 second. Plywood is more likely to burn that MDF or particle board, usually due to inconsistencies in the core.

In plywood, I typically get less than 1 in 10 burned holes with a downcut bit. All of my shelf pins have always been a good, snug fit.

[Chris E Smith]

Thanks, I will give that a try since I already have the down cut bit. Up cut bit is on the way.
I appreciate all of the replies, it's taken the mystery out of this seemingly simple task.
Someone posted elsewhere about good service from Routerbit World and I wanted to add that they refunded my purchase for "Pioneer" 1/4"shelf pins that were .242" and said I did not need to return the pins. I purchased a bag of pins from Woodcraft this weekend and they were .247" and a snug fit in a 1/4" drilled hole, but I'm going to use the angle bracket type pins for the actual cabinets.

[glenn bradley]

Yes that is also my understanding about the down cut and chip out. It would probably work fine for a rabbet or dado but not so well in a blind hole through a template guide plus template.

Thanks Ian, I was not aware of those special bits for shelf pin holes.

Chris

Bingo. You are drilling a hole and there is nowhere for the down-cut's chip ejection so, burning. When in motion, like with a dado cut, there is a void created for the spoil to eject into. I use upcut spirals for pin holes.

[Jim Dwight]

I've used a home made jig with a upcut spiral bit for shelf pin holes. I also have the Rockler jig for drilling using a special bit. But my favorite is the Kreg jig. It is very simple but works very well. Holes might not be quite as clean as a router made hole but it is a lot simpler to use. The bit stores on the jig, put it in a drill and you are ready to go. It can do 5mm or 1/4 and spaces holes on 32mm centers.

[ian maybury]

Unlikely to be as good as a purpose made shelf pin/dowel drill but a really good quality brad point drill like a Famag HSS-G would do a pretty reasonable job of drilling clean holes too (just don't go in hard until it gets the hole started), although i'm not sure what the hole size is and hence the fit on dowels is likely to be….