Poly vs Acrylic?

[Allan Speers]

Man, am I confused.

I've had some bad experiences with poly, like most folks. I also know that there are a few polys that get very good reviews. However, some current WB products seem to be some kind of poly-acylic blend, or even just actylic.

Are these two different things, with acrylic being the "less plasticy" looking stuff, or is acrylic just a type of polyurethane?

[Prashun Patel]

Two different types of resins. Polyurethane is generally more durable than acrylic. The wb products vary considerably in durability so choose wisely.

Wb products also look very different on wood. They in general look colder and don't have the same warm clear Pop that most oil products have. There are ways to get back some of the warmth if that's important.

The acrylics can look as plasticky as polyurethane.

[John TenEyck]

In addition to what Prashun said, acrylics are very light stable, most polyurethanes less so. W/o the addition of UV stabilizers many polyurethanes will turn yellow over time, both oil based and water borne ones. If you haven't noticed by now, I'm a fan of General Finishes products. They have acrylics, polyurethanes, and blends of the two in their product line. I find all of them to be easy to use. The acrylics like Enduro Lacquer and blends like HP Poly are water clear and do not get cloudy, nor does Enduro Clear Poly even though it's made with Polyurethane. EnduroVar is a polyurethane with outstanding chemical durability; however, it will get a plastic look if you apply too many coats.

I've never had a problem with a loss of clarity or that plastic look if I follow the directions. Two or three coats is almost always sufficient, and you can apply at least four coats of all the products I mentioned above, except EnduroVar, w/o them getting cloudy.

John

[David Pascoe]

I switched from polyurethane to EM6000 acrylic "lacquer" two years ago. Calling it a lacquer is a big stretch of the imagination and marketing BS. Anyway, I'm having problems with durability and easy scratching with the water-base. The ease of use is great, but durability just doesn't stack up against the old standbys. I'm going to have to return to either lacquer or polyurethane because my products are getting scratched up in inventory even b4 they are sold.

[John TenEyck]

David, give GF's Enduro Clear Poly a look see. It's amazingly hard and abrasion resistant - far better than oil based poly in my testing.

John

[George Bokros]

David, give GF's Enduro Clear Poly a look see. It's amazingly hard and abrasion resistant - far better than oil based poly in my testing.

John

To apply over oil based stain you need to allow at least 4 days for the oil based stain to fully dry before applying this product, at least that is what GF application guide states. Anyone have any thing different that this to add??

[John TenEyck]

To apply over oil based stain you need to allow at least 4 days for the oil based stain to fully dry before applying this product, at least that is what GF application guide states. Anyone have any thing different that this to add??


I usually wait 3 days and then spray a coat of dewaxed shellac, and the WB topcoat. No problems.

John

[David Pascoe]

To apply over oil based stain you need to allow at least 4 days for the oil based stain to fully dry before applying this product, at least that is what GF application guide states. Anyone have any thing different that this to add??

Yes, I wipe very dry, then I put the stained piece out in the sun for an hour or so, then shoot with WB acrylic and so far it holds to wet sanding between coats. I'm using minwax non-filler stain, btw. I'll test by wiping with a paper towel and if any comes off, bake it a little longer. I"m in Florida so I can do this year 'round.

Of course I realise you can't do this for large work, but for small stuff, it works fine.