Advice requested

[Bill Ledoux]

I purchased a Craftsman 10" saw when I first started outfitting my small shop. It does not have the standard size mitre slot on the saw table you'd have on a typical saw and I now regret the purchase. I've tried building a crosscut sled with unsatisfactory results (sticking, etc.). The problem is that the aluminum track slots have an extrusion at the top which holds down the mitre gage, in the front and the rear of the slot. The mitre gage has alot of play in the slot. Has anyone else had this problem with non standard sized mitre slots? I will eventually replace the saw but need to make due with what I have for the time being. Anyone having similar issues with their saw? Any advice would be appreciated.

[Cecil Arnold]

Bill, I think Woodpeck makes some 18" & 24" alum. tracks that might work for your miter sled. I think Woodcraft has them. They have adjustments that allow you to expand the tracks to get a good tight fit in the miter slot. It will not be tight along its whole lenght, just the front, middle and end, so you will still have a problem with play, but it will work. I understand your problem with the C'man saw, and be thankful you didn't get a tinioning jig in the hopes it would easily work as I did. But that's another story.

[Rob Russell]

If this is really botherig you and your table saw top is aluminum, you can mill the T-track out to accept a normal miter gauge. You'd also be able to build a crosscut sled that had runners to fit the normal miter slot. You can use a carbide straight-cutting router bit to mill the aluminum. Clamp a really straight and stiff straightedge to your saw top as a guide. Cut a channel that fits a standard 3/4" wide track. You'd need to be really careful about milling the 2 channels in the saw so they are parallel to each other. WD-40 is a good lubricant for cutting aluminum, so I'd have someone with a can squirting it into the cut while you're doing it. It'll make a mess, but you'd end up with "normal" size miter slots.

I've never done this. My suggestion is based on what I've read on a metal-working forum I've lurked on and posts from the Felder Owner's Group where one of the guys used to be a machinist and a couple of the guys have mills that they use to make jigs and the like.

Rob

[Mike Cutler]

One quick fix is to get a magazine, tear out a page and place a page across the miter slot and then push your miter down into the slot. If it's still loose, add another page.
It's kinda hokey, but it works. I use this method with a Delta tennoning jig that I have. According to Delta " It's supposed to be loose" :confused: Yeah right. :rolleyes:
One more solution is to place the miter in the slot and whack it with a center punch, at both ends, and hope that the miter bar "spreads" to take up the slop.
I remember once that someone recommended using some type of teflon, or UHMW shim stok and lining the slot.
And of course there are companies that make miters for the Sears tablesaws and know about the difference. You have to know to ask though.

[Dan Oelke]

I have a craftsman tablesaw too - but it's a cast iron top.

For my sled runner I got some 3/4" x 3/8" hot roll stock, then found that the slots are really about 0.742" wide and my stock was 0.750" - should have measured with the calipers first instead of the tape measure. Darn it! <sigh> Well - since I had the material I just put a piece of sandpaper (220 I think) on the table top and started rubbing the bar along it. Took maybe 20-30 minutes of sanding and trial and error fitting/measuring until the bar fit. A little wax and it glides pretty well too.

Dan</sigh>

[John Brennaman]

If you have access to a set of taps you can drill holes in the sides of the miter (2 or 3 holes on the same side). Then tap the holes and insert set screws. The screws can be set to a depth that should allow the miter to move back and forth slop free.

[Bill Ledoux]

Thanks for all the ideas. I have a note in to WoodPeck and hopefully I will have a solution shortly.

I just found this site recently and enjoy it immensly. I'm basically a hobbyist woodworker (financial analyst by day) and want to gear up my shop as a stress reliever. I'm able to buy cherry, maple, balck walnut and beech from a sawmill close to home. My objectives are to build custom frames (to go with my other hobby, photography), small decorative boxes, and a variety of furniture as the needs arise. With the knowlegde and support of the members on this board, I know my woodworking hobby will be satisfying!

[Vaughn McMillan]

Bill, is it possible to file off the extrusions at the beginnings and ends of the slots? If so, you could make your own CC sled runners out of UHMW to exactly fit your existing slots. I've had good success with making my own UMHW runners (as well as other jig pieces).

- Vaughn