Veneer Application advice appreciated - to vehicle & Complex curve.. Yikes..

[Matthew Lyman]

imagine most are you saying..

1. Metal application- "cannot be done"
2. Compound curve- "cannot be done"

I have heard that for years, and finally a few years ago I tried it on a car door and it went well I had a few bubbles but with some persuasion I have completed five vehicles (old Woody's).

Why come here and post my question? When I realize abuse may follow?

I need help.. so thanks in advance for suggestions on "Technique ETC"..

"I am attempting my first trunk".. yes, dare I say it.. major compound curve and I am even scared!!..

I have some tricks I have learned from the past five cars, but want to hear if anyone has any tricks for me?

Application
1941 Ford coupe trunk- I am making a car into a Woody (similar to a Sportsman but without the convertible top)
Veneer will go inside the wood frames that I have constructed (wood caps) hence the area of the Veneer will be minimal.



“Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts.” Albert Einstein

[David Hawxhurst]

is it going to be a single curve or a compound curve?

[Matthew Lyman]

compound curve

thank you in advance for any thoughts or recommendations
Matthew

[Mark Kornell]

A few questions:
- what adhesive are you using?
- how thick is the veneer?
- how important is maintaining a continuous grain pattern?
- what are you using as a finish?
- can you remove the body part while working on it?
- how much time, effort and money are you willing to put into this?

[Matthew Lyman]

- what adhesive are you using?
3M peel & stick (oakwood)

- how thick is the veneer?
requested Oakwood Veneer mill as thin as possible

- how important is maintaining a continuous grain pattern?
aesthetics are important but not crucial

- what are you using as a finish?
epifanes (10-13 coats- love the stuff)

- can you remove the body part while working on it?
I could- would prefer not (car is a concourse winner)

- how much time, effort and money are you willing to put into this?
I have a 6 months of actual working part time (after work) mainly lots of prep..trial and error...Money question? I am a working stiff, who likes to tinker on my own cars the hope is that I can do it on a figure it out without spending a kings ransom!

Again thanks for your help and support

Matthew

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

I would say that peel and stick, paper backed veneer is definitely the wrong product.
I would think that you can get veneer to conform to a compound curve (slight curve?) with a vacuum bag, and a veneer "flattening" solution to make it a bit more pliable. Start with light vacuum pressure, and work the veneer through the bag to get it to conform. Once it's lying flat, add paper into the bag to absorb the moisture. Keep changing the paper until the veneer is dry.

After it's dry, and conforming to the curve, use epoxy and the vacuum bag to attach. This method should give you a thicker veneer, and a much better bond that should hold up far better, for much longer than a peel and stick veneer will.

[Mark Kornell]

I agree that peel & stick veneer is inappropriate for the application. 10 coats of Epifanes will do a lot to lock it into shape, but I don't see it holding up with long-term exposure to the elements - even just being parked on the grass under a hot sun.

I'd suggest (and this obviously means removing the trunk lid) stripping the paint and using a strong acid etch to give the metal some roughness. Then use an epoxy as an adhesive. The epoxy would need to have a bit a flexibility to allow for heat expansion, so consult with epoxy manufacturers for technical advise.

I'd also suggest using a thicker veneer, 1/16" or so. Still flexible with enough to wrap around the curves you'll encounter, but thick enough so you can do some sanding.

To deal with compound curves, I'll suggest two approaches. First, use strips of veneer, 2-3" wide, that you individually shape to conform to the compound curve. Second, you could take larger pieces and carefully cut slits/triangles/ovals in them to get them to conform to the curves.

Gary's advise about vacuum bagging is spot-on. I'd add that epoxy doesn't need a high clamping force. Unlike PVAs or urea glues, epoxy needs a bit of a gap to fill. Excessive clamping force will squeeze out the epoxy and lead to adhesion failure.

[Matthew Lyman]

Howdy
Appreciate the advise, I have been thinking of a vacuum bag. To get it done correctly I am thinking of purchasing a old junk yard trunk - plasma cutting the exact dimension of the trunk skin off and then vacuum bag! I like that idea, simple and could yield a beautiful result with the idea of doing a Chrysler Town and Country next!

The car is almost done and I gotta say it is beautiful; My first car is now five years old and it has held up great.. no end in sight..I started a 1952 Suburban today (flat panels / no challenge) converting to a Woody.

Matthew
Here is what I am trying achieve