Software, laser settings ???

[Roy Sanders]

Hello Group,

I notice that many of you can set your settings for speed, power, etcetera. I have a Chinese laser and was sent CorelLaser to run the laser. It does not allow these type of settings. My questions then;

is there a software replacement you use that allows settings?
is there a way to set up the print settings in CorelDraw that allows this?
How do you do this?


I am so green at this laser business that I feel like a sprout barely emerging from the ground, looking up and seeing grown trees.

thanks for your expert suggestions.

Roy :confused:

[Mike Null]

Roy

CorelDraw does not offer the ability to set laser settings. I have no experience with Chinese lasers but all of the other machines I have used have these settings in the proprietary drivers.

[Ross Moshinsky]

Chinese lasers work flow is like this:

Design in Corel Draw. Setup drawing so it can be imported into your Chinese software. This means clean, closed paths, and not using things like stroke or stacking stuff on top of each other to get a desired result. Chinese lasers are not WYSIWYG like Western Machines. Then save your file as an EPS or AI, typically a low version like V8. Now you import your file into your laser software (LaserDraw in your case). This is when you have the chance to setup your speed, power, resolution, and whatever other settings may be available to you. After everything is set, NOW you can send the job to the laser and run it.

[Bill George]

But he is not using Corel Draw but Corel Laser which might be a Chinese invention?

Anyway Roy did your laser come with any other software such as LaserCutEngrave or something like that? What controller do you have and does it need a dongle to run either the software or machine?

[Bert Kemp]

After the the work is sent to laser there has to be a way to set speed and power at the laser. how could you have a laser that you can't control makes no sense.Roy lets see some pictures of your laser and screen shots of laser draw or what ever software you have,

[Bill George]

So I found the Documentation for Corel Laser online in a PDF file. It has something called a Engraving Manager which has all the settings you would need. Oops, I just see Speed and the rest does not seem to have a Power setting. This is an add on for Corel Draw which it requires and it shows Version 12. Free advice post your controller and the rest and someone can get you what you need in a already working version of something else.

[Roy Sanders]

Hi Ross,

Thank you I will do this and let you know. For clarification, Bill George, I am using CorelDraw x6, and I have a copy of Corel Laser from the Manu.

I get your point if i didn't have CD. I will post the screen shots of all of the process points.

AS ALWAYS thank you for your gracious helping points.

Roy

[Ernie Balch]

Not all Chinese lasers require an export to another stand alone program. I run my Rabbit laser right out of Corel X4. There is an add on that calls up a LaserCut 5.3 control panel where I can select cut or engrave along with the power and speed settings for each color line or bitmap pattern. It also lets me simulate the job and give me an accurate estimate of the time required. Once I download the job to the laser controller I am free to use the computer to set up the next job. I can combine multiple raster and vector jobs in one output file and select the parts that get run with a checkbox.

[Dave Sheldrake]

If it's the Nicecut 4040 then power is controlled by the pot (little rotating switch) just under the ammeter on the front of the machine

[Bill George]

If it's the Nicecut 4040 then power is controlled by the pot (little rotating switch) just under the ammeter on the front of the machine
So that explains the lack of a power control setting in the software, just the speed. Really kind of limits the use of the machine.

[Bill George]

Hi Ross,

Thank you I will do this and let you know. For clarification, Bill George, I am using CorelDraw x6, and I have a copy of Corel Laser from the Manu.

I get your point if i didn't have CD. I will post the screen shots of all of the process points.

AS ALWAYS thank you for your gracious helping points.

Roy

Roy, according to what Dave just posted your power control is that knob below your mA meter. The Software controls the speed and the on-off in Engraving Manager. That may be all you have? I do have that PDF file I found, maybe its the same as your documentation? Its not well written and some of the screen shots are in Chinese but if you want it I can send as an attachment to your email.

[Roy Sanders]

Hello Engraving Friends,

Thank you for all of the powerful thinking. I will Post the pic of the Machine and some screen shots of settings this evening. Maybe with all this brain power we can find a work around that will emulate the abilities I need to high quality work.

Bill I would very much appreciate that PDF, it might help in the collaboration. knot2pen-at-kc-dot-rr-dot-c*m

Enjoy your days

Roy

[Bill George]

Hello Engraving Friends,

Thank you for all of the powerful thinking. I will Post the pic of the Machine and some screen shots of settings this evening. Maybe with all this brain power we can find a work around that will emulate the abilities I need to high quality work.

Bill I would very much appreciate that PDF, it might help in the collaboration. knot2pen-at-kc-dot-rr-dot-c*m

Enjoy your days

Roy

Headed to you right now.

[Dave Sheldrake]

The control card in those machines was originally designed for cutting Rubber Stamps, WinSeal, NewleySeal, DragonDraw, NewleyDraw etc was the software of choice (and design). China then realised the machines fitted with 40 watt tubes (35 watt) could cut thin materials so added stuff like up/down beds (many based on screw jacks) to give some degree of adjustment. The problem is they still retained the original control cards that were only really designed for engraving rubber stamp sheets that only vary by a mm or so in thickness so their usefulness for cutting is very limited.

The mirrors are at the bottom end of what you need to distribute the heat of the more powerful tubes (20mm mirrors) and the final lens was originally an 18mm version. Rather than redesign the entire machine (cost) they simply made additions to what was already available to get the cheaper machines into the cutting machine market and appeal to more first time buyers.


Maybe with all this brain power we can find a work around that will emulate the abilities I need to high quality work.

Sadly Roy it will be a case of trying to make a machine do things is wasn't originally designed to do. Guide rails,Laser head, Mirror holders and Control card are all limiting factors in those machines and the cost of updating or swapping them all out would be more than a bigger machine with the higher end stuff in it would cost to buy :(

Tweaking here or there will help but as the old saying goes "No point gold plating a cow patt"

[Clark Pace]

So with my machine there is a VBA plug you load. And so you can design in corel draw. Hit the laser button and a new screen pops up. It has the power setting and speed. Then you engrave button

[Roy Sanders]

First I wish to say thanks to Bill, i replied to your email. Looking for a cutting and marking.

Next, thank you Dave your explanation makes sense. So it is your opinion that if I upgrade mirrors and lenses it won't help increase power and function?

I am not likely to add gold plating to an oinker. I am not going into a business function more than engraving and marking on my pens. I would like to keep it moving and in good shape.

ANY descending views?

Roy

[Dave Sheldrake]

So it is your opinion that if I upgrade mirrors and lenses it won't help increase power and function?

On paper it will improve things Roy but sadly not to any noticeable extent...you will be looking at fractions of a % better beam transmission from good mirrors and better optical transmission via a good final lens, the problem is the variation in that type of machine is likely more than the improvement better quality parts will actually provide.

I can't even suggest a better quality tube as the fatbody tubes won't fit so you are going to be stuck with the standard Chinese OEM tubes. There are a few tiny cheap mods that will help a little, let me go have a look at the 4040 schematics and I'll come back with some cheap suggestions that may improve things a few % for you

[Roy Sanders]

Hi Dave

What a kind offer. Thank you. I am certainly looking forward to hearing what you find.

Roy