Pondering acquiring a tracksaw

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have begun to start pondering getting a tracksaw. Coincidentally, Fine Woodworking sent an email with some basic information and listed six manufacturers.

Festool
Dewalt
Makita
Triton
Grizzly
(and one other I can't read, but is red-orange in color).

Does anyone have any experience with any of them? Anything you don't like or wish was different on the one you have?

There is also the EZSmart Tracksaw kit to convert any circular saw into a panel saw. Any one have or used one of these? How well does the EZSmart track work when compared to the dedicated tracksaw?

Since it looks like a $400-500 investment, I want to slant the odds in my favor of getting the saw I will like the best.

[Jim German]

Mafell was the last one in the fine woodworking article.

Festool was rated best overall by them, if I recall correctly the Makita was rated best value.

I've always been quite happy with my Festool TS 55. Plus if you have a Festool router, it can ride on the same rails for making all sorts of cuts like dados or v-groves.

[Mike Wilkins]

Got the track saw with the 55 inch rail from Festool several years ago after making a mess attempting to cut some pricey plywood with a not-so-straight edge guide. Best money I have ever spent and well worth it. No experience with the others, but suspect they are all OK. Popular Woodworking magazine made a positive review of the Grizzly offering, and I have to agree it does look good. Good luck and watch those fingers.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I'm picking up a Festool TS55 and a CT36 but won't be getting it for another few weeks so can't tell you how I like it until I get it and use it. I do have a Festool OF1010 Router and have to say I love it. It's no where near as loud as my other routers and for it's size has a lot of power.

[Jeffrey Martel]

The grizzly is the cheapest. That's what I have. It's certainly not the nicest of the bunch, though. If you only need a 55" track, you're only in for about $275. Be advised that it does rock a bit in the track (fixed with one of the little plastic accessories in the accessory pack), and it's not as splinter free as some of the others. That's fixed with a new blade and cutting over top of some rigid foam insulation, though. I think it's a good value. If I was using it every day I'd buy the Festool, but I'm not and can't see spending the premium price on it.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

Also, there's a good video on youtube that compared the Dewalt vs. festool.

[Rich Engelhardt]

This Festool owner ( I have TS55EQ) would replace mine in a heartbeat with a DeWalt if anything happened to it.
The DeWalt cuts closer to walls for those times I need to cut flooring or a sub floor.
The DeWalt also has a built in anti-kickback. I have to add that little device to my Festool and always end up forgetting about it until the saw kicks back at me.

(In case you're wondering why I didn't get the DeWalt to begin with - - it wasn't out yet when I got fed up screwing up decent plywood with the horrid cuts my shop made jig delivered.)

[Anthony Whitesell]

Also, there's a good video on youtube that compared the Dewalt vs. festool.


Do you have link or search string to find it?

[Jim Dwight]

The wood whisperer made a video comparing the DeWalt to the Festool. He has a Festool and liked it best. He criticized the blade change on the DeWalt and the different plunging action. He might have not liked something else but, if so, I don't remember it. I got the DeWalt with a 55 and a 102 inch track for about $600. Getting roughly the same in a Festool would be more like $1,000 (they don't sell a 102, I think the closest is about 106 inches). The long track is expensive from Festool, two 55s would be cheaper. I didn't want to join tracks, however. I don't love storing the 102 track but I put it on my lumber rack which works fine. It's too long to go vertical in my current shop. I used to think it was a little short for cutting 8 foot sheet goods but then I started setting it with about 1 inch overhang on the final end and 5 inches of overhang where I start the saw. That works well and I think 102 is long enough. I might buy a shorter 46 inch track but you're pretty well set up with the 55 and 102.

The biggest advantage I see of the Festool is the accessories. I had to make my own parallel guide for my DeWalt (wasn't that bad, cost was around $100 for the parts). They sell a router setup. Festool sells a track with holes on 32mm centers, however, for boring holes in cabinets at that spacing. Not available for my DeWalt unless I get a machine shop to do some work and rig something up. Festool markets a pretty nice little fold-up work surface for their tracksaw, the MFT. It seems like it would help a lot with cross cuts. Ron Paulk sells plans for his version of a worksurface I think I like better but I'll have to build it, nothing commercially available. This seems to be the pattern, you can get, at most, a router adapter for the other brands. Lots of extras available for the Festool - at a price. For a hobbiest (like me) it isn't a huge obstacle to tell me I need to build something. If I was doing it for a living, I don't think I'd like that.

In terms of cut quality and accuracy, if you put a decent blade on the Grizzly I think they are similar. The reviews I've read indicate cut quality of at least the DeWalt, Makita and Festool is very similar. Grizzly might be a little behind even with a good blade but maybe not. Not sure of the Triton but probably closer to the better saws. I've seen a review saying the Festool was miles ahead in quality but also a tear down of the Festool which was kind of critical. My overall conclusion remains that at least the F, D, and M are good tools with the biggest distinguishing feature is the extras available for the F.

I'm happy with my DeWalt. No problems with power, even trimming a 1 3/4 door with the 55 tooth stock blade. Good dust collection with my Rigid shop vac, Dust Deputy combination using a Bosch 35mm hose. Blade change is easy. Nice tool.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

Do you have link or search string to find it?

Dewalt - https://youtu.be/r-3Ow-wegeU

Grizzly- https://youtu.be/PcfiKe1PkXU

I think he was very fair with his review and opinion considering he's a festool fan.

[Bob Falk]

I just went through the same decision process and decided on the Makita. Festool was a bit too rich for my blood. While the Dewalt had a riving knife and both sides of the track could be used, the Makita has a stop to prevent the saw from tipping on angled cuts and a longer track (118" vs. 102" for the Dewalt)....the real kicker was that Amazon currently has a 20% sale on Makita accessories, so I ordered the saw bare and two tracks, the router attachment, and track connector at the discount. In total, the Makita was about $80 more than the Dewalt.

[Michael Cole]

I just went through this process very recently. First I decided I wanted something and did consider the EZ Smart system, but then decided to go for a dedicated track saw. I then considered all of those saws including the Grizzly. The price of the Grizzly is very attractive. In the end I bought a Festool and a CT26. I am very happy with my purchase. I do wish that their long track was cheaper, but it is not so I bought 2 55" tracks (one with the holes). I have heard that you can use the Makita tracks with the Festool and their long one is cheaper. I am thinking about that.

[Ken Kortge]

Since nobody else from the Eurekazone user community has responded yet I'll speak up. I first came upon the Eurekazone system in 2008 and have been using it regularly since then - and increasing my shelf of components since then. I was faced with the need to cut plywood. I hated cutting plywood on a table saw, and I found I simply could not make a straight cut with a circular saw to save my life - not even with a straight edge. Their track system literally changed my woodworking life. Now I can cut straight, safe, and very very accurately.

The base of the Eurekazone system is the track, which to my knowledge is quite unique compared to the other tracks. Look a the cross section of their track and you'll see that it is double-layered - kind of a very wide rectangular box with several inner "I-beams" for strength, rather than a sheet of aluminum with a single rectangular track. Dino, the founder of Eurekazone, apparently once used the tracks as a ramp for his Fiat, though I wouldn't do that with my track.

If you look closer at the cross section of the track you'll also notice that side grooves and the center groove have dovetail-like shapes. These come into play when connecting rails together or when connecting other components (such as the Miter Square, the Repeaters, ...). When tightening the connectors or components the dovetails auto-center the rails, connectors, and components so that you don't typically need check to make sure rails are straight, that the miter square is at 90 degrees, or that the repeaters are properly aligned. Its a slick feature that really works. I don't think any of the other tracks have this.

By the way, the track packages come with clamps. I like Eurekazone's clamps and use them religiously - to get the most accurate cuts possible.

Recently I saw a post in one of the woodworking forms voicing concern about connecting 50-70" rails to provide one longer rail. With the other rails they recommend using another rail or long level to make sure the two rails are aligned. I connect my two 50" rails (I recently bought a 64" rail because I think 50+65 will work better than 50+50) all the time without needing to adjust - they are just straight every time. Dovetails!!

The second component that is key is the saw base. This base allows you to buy your own circular saw and attach the base to your saw. OR you can buy an EZ Ready saw - which is what I did (I have the Hitachi - great saw and they add a dust collector to the saw, which I like). The base allows 90 degree and bevel cuts. The base has slots for two inserts. One provides the equivalent of a zero clearance table saw insert on the side away from the rail - the rail edge plus the insert edge covers both edges of the cut - which provides extremely clean cuts (remember that circular saws cut upwards). The other insert provide an anti-kickback fin that rides through the kerf cut. Somewhere there is a video of Dino running a freehand cut with the fin, but doing his best to torque the saw side-to-side to cause a kickback - and nothing. It adds a tremendous amount of safety.

The thickness of the base plus rail do reduce some cut depth. My Hitachi on rail will just barely not completely cut through the 1.5 depth of a 2x4 - leaving less than a cereal box cardboard thickness of wood. I can easily finish the cut with a knife. Saws with bigger saw blades are available but its not worth the cost to me. Of course you could use the edge of the rail as a straight edge and put the saw base directly on the wood for a deeper cut, but I've never bothered doing that.

I have the EZ Smart Clamp System which allows me to attach the rail to a rip long narrow boars without a table saw.

I have the older EZ Square, which when used with a shorter rail provide very easy quick 90 degree cuts. The current EZ Miter Square allows you to set about any angle and make repeatable miter cuts. Use a short rail for short cuts or longer rails for longer cuts.

I have the EZ Repeaters used to make identical width cuts (like ripping lengths of plywood on a table saw using the fence but with zero risk of kickback). Another option many prefer is to use Eurekazone's Universal Edge Guide which also provides rips of repeatable width.

If I combine the Square with one Repeater they call this a "Cabinet Maker" used to make repeated 90 degree cuts of equal width.

Some people point out that the circular saws don't plunge like in other rail saws, but for me that is a non-issue. I almost never need to plunge and when I do I can place one end of the saw on trail, hold told the saw guide back, start the saw, and then lower (plunge) the saw to the wood. Not a problem, at least for me.

If you provide the saw, the 64" rail starter kit (with base) runs $200 via Eurekazone.com. A lower cost 54" rail kit is available but I'd recommend the 64" to cut 48" lengths of plywood - it provides space for the saw to start and end the cut. The Hitachi EZ Ready saw is available for $220, but the saw alone can be purchased on Amazon.com for $120. You could buy the tracks and clamps separately for $160. So, attaching the base and vacuum attachment ($17.25) yourself will run $337.25. Letting them attach the base with a vacuum attachment will run $380. You decide. For $40 I let them do it. :-)

I don't work for Eurekazone. I'm just a user that was not thrilled with using a table saw, and not even a fancy woodworker, but I'm learning. Eurekazone's products, plus a sliding miter saw and the Kreg jigs, have done what I need to do to date. Please don't discount Eurekazone because they're the little guy. They are very high quality, Eurekazone is the classic small business, and the products are made in Florida. Hop on to their forum and say hi. I'm sure you'd get a warm welcome.

ADDED - By the way, I should mention that the idea is that each time you buy a new blade for your saw you also buy new anti-chip edges (need two 64" edges at $8 each, 3 for $22) for the rail and a new anti-chip base insert ($8) for the base. They are custom cut for each blade.

[Alan Lilly]

I got the makita and can't imagine needing anything more. I therefore concur that the makita is the best value and if money were no object, I suppose the festool may be better. Not sure exactly how though. The makita does everything I would expect and I have no issues.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Thanks for all of the responses. Great information. I have the AO quick clamp guide, but it requires an 8" offset and nearly square edges for clamping. I have a saw dedicated just for the edge clamp guide. So I don't mind having or purchasing a saw to be dedicated to the tracksaw system.

I have a few more questions.

-Of the six dedicated purchased track saws, they are all 6 1/2 or am I missing something?

-Of the six dedicated track saw listed, they are all plunge style saws?

-Slightly OT, why would you need plunge cut with a circular saw? I cannot think of a time that I have needed it in 25+ years of fixing and making stuff.

-In regards to the EZSmart Eurekazone system, if I provide my own saw it would be a 7 1/4" saw. Would I be able to gain and use the extra?

-In contemplating the EZSmart system, are there any good circular saws with a dust collection port? Neither of mine do but both are older.

[Allan Speers]

I love my Eurekazone system.

While you lose almost 1" depth-of-cut, the stiffer rail has several advantages. Most important:

1: You can (and should) use it on elevated table system, that is, on top of sacrificial supports. This is much, MUCH better than using a sheet of foam, or whatever.

2: It makes 1/8" and 1/4" sheets conform to IT, instead of the other way around. This leads to better cuts if the sheet isn't dead-flat.

Also, I just LOVE the clamps.

Then there are all the add-ons, which Festool also offers, of course, such as a base for your router.

I think a Festool TS75 on the EZ rail is close to perfection. If you need a deeper cut, then the 10" Makita, though then you have no riving knife. (but a riving knife isn't all that important with a tracksaw, anyway.)

I don't need to do plunge cuts, though if I did, that can be done on the EZ-One table, by lowering the bridge into the cut.

[Jeffrey Martel]

I have a few more questions.

-Of the six dedicated purchased track saws, they are all 6 1/2 or am I missing something?

-Of the six dedicated track saw listed, they are all plunge style saws?

-Slightly OT, why would you need plunge cut with a circular saw? I cannot think of a time that I have needed it in 25+ years of fixing and making stuff.

-In regards to the EZSmart Eurekazone system, if I provide my own saw it would be a 7 1/4" saw. Would I be able to gain and use the extra?

-In contemplating the EZSmart system, are there any good circular saws with a dust collection port? Neither of mine do but both are older.

1. Blades are 160mm with a 20mm arbor on all of them, I believe.

2. I believe they are, yes.

3. In more carpentry type environments I can see using plunge cuts. Cutting out window holes, marking u-shaped cutouts where they need to be straight, etc.

Not familiar with the EZSmart system.

I also discovered this summer that a track saw is a great way to make a straight cut on a flat-top fence. Worked far better than me trying to hold up a regular circular saw and trying to follow a line.

[Ken Kortge]

You asked: "-In regards to the EZSmart Eurekazone system, if I provide my own saw it would be a 7 1/4" saw. Would I be able to gain and use the extra?"

I'm not sure what you mean. If you provide your own saw, the base can accept many different types and sizes of saw, including the 7-1/4" saws. Some folks use the 8-1/4" Makita 5008MGA to get the extra depth of cut for 1.5 lumber. They sell the kits assuming that you're going to install your own base. It looks pretty easy - they have a good video on youtube. I am not sure what extra you are referring to.

If you buy a EZ Ready saw and then get the kit, the kit comes with a base. You can use that to add a second saw to your set of tools ... if that's what you mean. That's what I did. My base is still sitting naked - without a saw attached to it. Don't really need it I suppose.

Go to the Eurekazone Product area where they list the EZ Ready tools and then to to EZ Ready Components. There you'll find the vacuum attachments. Click on them and you'll see videos about them and how to install them. Looks easy though I've never tapped metal for screws. Looks easy enough considering he's doing it left handed for the video. The voice is Dino -the inventor. If you have questions post them to the forum and likely Dino himself will answer them, if not the others.

I should also mention that I use an older version of Eurekazone's Multiform Table Top Kit. Attached to a 2x4 sheet of 3/4 plywood you get an amazingly stable and functional cutting table that will hold a full 4x8 sheet of plywood. Great not only for the track cutting but also for using jig saws, drilling, .... and fairly portable.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I was not sure if (a) there was something in the design that kept the saw from going all the way down, and (b) how much of the 7 1/4" cutting depth was lost when the EZSmart base was added.

[Jeff Bartley]

Anthony,
My experience is limited to the dewalt but I can clarify that it uses a 165/20mm arbor blade, festool uses a 160/20mm.
Sink cut-outs in a wooden or laminate countertop is one place where a plunge cut is necessary. Plunge cuts are very easy, the riving knife just moves up as you plunge the saw. I've also plunged into MDF to make a tapered jig for use on the table saw.
One aspect of the track saw that I would add is that the rubber strips most definitely get worn over time and you lose a bit of the zero-clearance. I still haven't tried linking two tracks together but I'd love to see how well that works.
One last thing: the blade change on the dewalt is only awkward once!
Hope this helps!

[Jim Dwight]

I believe the plunge cut is perhaps mostly for dust collection and possibly safety and not so much for functionality. Making the saw plunge allows there to be a rigid shroud around the blade that is key to good dust collection. It also allows the base of the saw to be flat so you can set it down very safely. The pivoting guard of my circular saws also jambs sometimes encouraging manipulation with the blade running which is not safe. The plunge mechanism doesn't in my experience jamb. Then there is the occasional need to start the cut in the middle of something.

I've never used the Eurekazone but I believe it doesn't allow you to use the guide strip effectively except at 90 degrees. The guide strip is on the cut line at 45 degrees with the track saws. Users report good cut quality but I've never gotten as good a cut from my circular saws as I get with my track saw, even with a fine tooth blade I think it pretty good.

I agree with Jeff, the DeWalt system is a bit non-intuitive and I needed the picture guide that comes with the saw the first time. But then you understand the steps and it is actually a good system. It is certainly not awkward compared to having to jamb the blade into something to loosen the nut or push in a spring loaded pin to lock the arbor when loosening the nut. It may be awkward relative to the festool blade change but it isn't a significant issue. There is a button and lever to manipulate, both right on top of the saw, and you use an allen wrench stored in the saw handle to loosen the nut. You basically have to plunge the saw to the depth where the nut is available through the blade guard, lock the plunge, lock the arbor, and loosen the nut.

[Rich Engelhardt]

-Slightly OT, why would you need plunge cut with a circular saw? I cannot think of a time that I have needed it in 25+ years of fixing and making stuff.The very first time you lay a plunge cut saw down flat on a surface after making a cut & not worrying about a spinning blade, you'll wonder why you waited so long for this small convenience.
It's not really a planned feature of the plunge function, but, it's something you really miss when it's not there.

This is the cutting table I use.
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm

With my saw, I usually end up laying the saw across the two narrower cross members while I move the plywood around after making a cut. Both the fully enclosed blade (made possible by the plunge) and the rather precarious place to place the saw make using a plngue saw much more steady than a conventional circular saw.
I also use that same table when using my circular saw with a shop made guide for things that a track can't lay flat on - - such as counter tops with a built in splash guard.
When I do that, I always end up bending down and putting the circular saw on the ground.

It really sounds like a ridiculously trivial thing, but, at my age and girth, the less bending down I do, the better off I am! :D

[Anthony Whitesell]

If I turn the plunge cut design around, the primary is and would be the "better blade guard". I do agree the guards on both of my circular saws stink. Granted they are better than the guard (that was) on the tablesaw. The plunge design blade guard looks far superior and beneficial than the old standard circular saw blade guard. The ability to plunge the blade down into the middle of a solid piece (as mentioned, sink cutouts) is a fringe benefit.

[cody michael]

I think a tracksaw could be a cool addition to my shop, 1 think I have noticed is I hardly ever see a used one for sale.

[Cary Falk]

I am into my DeWalt for $310 with one 55" track. I bought a 2nd 55" track and it was a PITA. I now have the long track. I found that at the connection point of the tracks, one edge of the track would be higher and catch the front of the saw. I am happy with my saw. My friend has the Makita and I would be happy with it also. I am not sure how the Festool can be much better. I like the DeWalt because the accessories are cheaper and can be also found on sale. Around Christmas you can usually find sales at Amazon, Lowes HD, etc. I have the router guide for the Dewalt but haven't used it yet. DeWalt accessories were hard to get when I bought mine a few years ago. I don't know if that has changed. I bought the angle guide, the clamps, right angle guide, and track bag, just in case they weren't available in the future. I haven't needed to use them so far.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Does the Dewalt tracksaw router guide only fit the Dewalt router?

[Ken Kortge]

I've never used the Eurekazone but I believe it doesn't allow you to use the guide strip effectively except at 90 degrees. The guide strip is on the cut line at 45 degrees with the track saws. Users report good cut quality but I've never gotten as good a cut from my circular saws as I get with my track saw, even with a fine tooth blade I think it pretty good.

The Eurekazone track has two top rails. One is for 90 degree cuts and the other is used for bevel cuts (non-90 degree cuts). I have not done bevel cuts myself, but on the Eurekazone forum those who do say that they typically remove the anti-chip edge from the cut side and remove the anti-chip insert from the saw base before making the bevel cut. They say that edge quality - splintering - is not really a problem with bevel cuts.

You cannot compare cut quality of the Eurekazone system with that of a regular circular saw blade. They are simply two different animals. Dino says that he gets the best cuts using a standard carbide tipped construction style circular saw blade. I myself only use that kind of blade - never have used a plywood blade. Using the Eurekazone base and rail with anti-chip insert and edge completely covers both sides of the kerf cut producing a very high quality cut edge on the top side. The cut on the bottom side is not an issue because the blade cuts from bottom to top on a circular saw. Table saws cut from top to bottom, which is why a zero clearance blade insert works well - if you use one. I suspect many don't.

To see the difference yourself go to youtube.com and search for a video by Eurekazone called "Eurekazone Smart Saw Base". It shows the cut quality with the anti-chip edge & base insert, with the off-track base insert, and without any of the anti-chip protection. It also shows the impact of the anti-kickback fin.

I think their recent videos - in the last year or so are pretty well produced and help explain how it works. Just go to youtube.com and search using "Eurekazone".

I should also mention that because you're using a circular saw with its integral blade guard (its function is unchanged with the Eurekazone base) there is no open blade spinning - unless you removed the guard -which you shouldn't do.

I'll also mention that with Eurekazone's Multiform Table the boards the wood rests on are sacrificial. You cut through them as you cut. At first I was worried I'd have to replace them too often, but so far mine have lasted a long time since each cut takes a different path.

[Kevin Woodhead]

+1. I did the same thing a couple of years back. Bought a Makita saw, tracks and clamps. Found Dewalt bag/case, protractor, right angle attachments on sale (they all fit the Makita). Built my own UHMW shoe to get splinter-free cuts on both upcut sides of the blade. Saved $$ and have a very good setup. I asked myself if I were buying a non-tracked circular saw, would I prefer Festool, Makita, or Dewalt. Festool is quite expensive with no visible reason for the price premium above the other two (unless one believes that a single brand "system" is valuable). Makita vs Dewalt? No question Makita makes better circular saws. I also like the track lock feature on the Makita. My Festool vacuum works fine with the Makita. If they all cost the same amount, I would buy the Festool because of the riving knife and would miss the Makita's track lock.

[ed vitanovec]

I had the Makita and really liked it. Was really quite and made me think it was under powered, but not so it cut like a charm. The track connectors I bought were for Festool and they fit perfectly. Mine was variable speed and thought that was a nice feature.

[Allan Speers]

I was not sure if (a) there was something in the design that kept the saw from going all the way down, and (b) how much of the 7 1/4" cutting depth was lost when the EZSmart base was added.

You lose about 7/8", because the track is very thick plus you have to add what is basically a second base to the saw. As Ken wrote, using a 8-1/4" Makita 5008MGA solves the problem of cutting 2X4's.

-----------

As for bevel cuts, I agree that this is a small deficiency, sort of. You can make splinter-free cuts at both 90 and 45 degrees, but not anything in-between. I have no idea how other systems work with bevels, though it looks like the Festool might have a better setup for this. I also don't know if the Festool's on-saw anti chip thing would help when on a Eurekazone track. I've never tried it.

Having said that,

1: How often do you really cut other angles?

2: When you do, on the EZ system, you simply get the same cut as on a table saw. Not really a huge problem, though it IS a small factor to consider, I guess. I like "most" of the rest of my full Eurekazone system (including the deluxe EZ-ONE table) so much that this one small point doesn't bother me.

------------

Then again, I sometimes remember fondly using my old Unisaw. :o (Mostly when cutting hard, 8/4 stock.)

- Which brings up the really difficult question: Do you plan to expand whatever tracksaw you get to the full system that that company offers? The answer to this will make a huge difference as to which tracksaw you buy, and it's a VERY tough subject. I would say that having a router on the same track is a no-brainer. It won't completely replace a router table, nor a good free-hand setup, but what it does do, it does better than any other system.

I also would not want to work without my EZ miter guide. - Basically a T-square made out of a short piece of track, for super-fast 90-degree cuts.

After that it gets tricky. Do you REALLY ant to replace your table saw? I did. I get by, sometimes I even prefer the new safety, but sometimes.... (see above.)

[Jim Dwight]

No, it is set up for a DeWalt or a PC 690/890 series router.

[Anthony Whitesell]

In light of the great information provided on track saws. I have started to reconsider my plan to purchase a miter saw (actually the Bosch Glide Miter Saw). Top on my list is the Dewalt or the EZSmart system. Festool costs too much, Grizzly rated as OK, and the others didn't have much information. I still need to find one I can touch and would be great to demo.

The EZSmart bridge and table looks like it could be set up to do almost all of what the miter saw can do. Or am I way off base?

Can the EZSmart bridge be used on the Dewalt or does Dewalt make something similar?

[Jim Dwight]

Maximum usefulness of a track saw requires a workbench of some sort. Festool sells their MFT. If you go to the FOG (Festool Owners Group) you can see and get plans for a rolling MFT. It could be used with other tracksaws as could a MFT. I like Ron Paulk's ideas. He sells plans for a modest fee. He has plans for a crosscut adapter for his workbench. I won't make exactly a Paulk workbench but I plan a rolling worktable with a top based upon his ideas. This is a video of Ron cutting up plywood for some cabinets on his workbench using a Festool saw, parallel guide, and his crosscut jig:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtzoPUMOhZU

Instead of a cross cut jig, some people use bench dogs.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I'm thinking a wall mounted bench could fold down flatter than one with a miter saw. ie., more floor space in the shop.

Anything I wouldn't be able to use a tracksaw for that I would need a miter saw for or anything I will miss by not having a mitersaw? Given that I also have a tablessaw and bandsaw.

[Jim Dwight]

Anthony,

While I think everybody would appreciate a track saw if they tried one I also think most people need at least one CMS. I have two. But I have no slider. I have a RAS. And a table saw.

The big thing the CMS is best for is molding. Trimming a house. In the shop, for crosscuts within the capacity of my 12 inch CMS, I use it first. If it is a foot or less by greater than 8 inches, it is RAS. If it is more than a foot, I use the track saw. Ripping is pretty much the same. Wide rips particularly of long heavy stock are done on the track saw. Little narrow rips on the table saw. It isn't that the track saw will not work on small pieces, usually you could use it. But it gets inconvenient when the wood pieces are small. Imagine cutting 45s on quarter round on a track saw. It's not that it can't do it. But it wouldn't be my first choice tool for quarter round. Simpler to dial up the angle and use the CMS.

Jim

[Cary Falk]

I would never use my track saw as a miter saw. The setup for a cut would be way to slow. I don't use my miter saw that much because it is cheap and not that accurate. I use it to build decks, fences, and house trim. I would hate to try to cut a 45 on a piece of quarter round. Crown moulding would be another pita. All my critical miters are done on the table saw. A track saw is not a substitute for a table saw either

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have shop renovations on the to do list for this winter which might provide some space for a SCMS, but not much. What I really need is a quicker way to square the end of a long piece of lumber. Right now I have to get out two sawhorses, carry them outside, setup them, dig out the circular, find an extension cord, get the saw guides, measure twice, cut one. 1 cut=15 minutes. Definitely need to speed that up.

I am thinking of the EZSmart bridge mounted to a fold-down table on the wall. The edge of the track should be (if I understand correctly) the cut line, analogous to the laser on a miter saw. I would agree that without the bridge it would be way slow to keep picking up the track, putting down the track, picking up the next piece of lumber, picking up the track, putting down the track, align the track, fetch the saw, and make the cut (heck it even took a long time to type).

I could be missing the ability to cut a miter on a long piece of stock. Cutting the trim for a door on a tablesaw could be quite cumbersome. But I don't cut miters on 6-8' stock often. Rarely enough I'm not worried about it. I don't do crown molding often enough to worry about that either. I do have access to borrow a SCMS if I need one. Cutting miters in shorter stock could easily be done on the tablesaw.

Other than speed, I not thinking there is much difference in how I would use a RAS vs the track saw and bridge. Both cut straight lines. (sorry to simplify the function) I don't looking to replace the saws I have. Both the tracksaw and the Bosch SCMS cost about the same. If I can get 80-90% of the functionality of a SCMS from the tracksaw, or more importantly 100% of the ways I would use a SCMS out of the tracksaw. Then I get to buy one tool (tracksaw) instead of two. So I am looking for what a SCMS can do that a combination of tablesaw, bandsaw, and tracksaw cannot. So far I will be missing the ability to easily cut miters on long stock. Any other brainstorms?

[Allan Speers]

Anthony,

I think there's a bit of confusion from your questions re a miter saw. My EZ track system does what a CHOP saw does, only much better & safer. It will also cut standard miters, of course, and I use it a lot for larger stuff. However, for something needing real precision, like a picture frame, and for compound miters, even the EZ-ONE table is not the optimal tool for that. The Festool saw would likely be a little better as it has a very nice bevel adjustment, but it's still the wrong tool.

For any precision miter, and compound cuts, I used my beloved Nobex Pro (AKA "Champion") hand miter saw. It's much easier to get a precision cut than with anything else, including powered toys. No noise, no sawdust, and you can really see what you're doing.

It's also a good idea to have a shooting board & plane, if you're after REAL precision.

[Ken Kortge]

As much as I've enjoyed my Eurekazone track system I'll second what Allan said. Its not a substitute for a nice compound miter saw. I have a Craftsman sliding compound miter saw (gift from wife) and I'm glad I have it.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I don't know about confusion. I agree with everything you said, Allen (including the comment about the "cordless" miter saw). I stop by Rockler on the way home for a touchy-feely session. They have the Dewalt, Triton, and EZSmart systems all on display and out to play with. I didn't see much difference between the Triton and Dewalt saws. I even tried the Dewalt on the EZSmart track. Surprisingly it fits, bit only has about 1/4" cutting depth. :D They had an EZSmart system setup and while looking at it I realized something critical. I did not take into account the length of the track (54") when thinking about using it as a chop saw. That makes for a REALLY deep workbench or distance from the wall. Not really a space savings while unfolded. One option would be to by a piece of track and cut it in half :eek:. I think I need to think about this plan some more and review the accessories available for the Dewalt vs. EZSmart.

[Jim Dwight]

My non-slider double bevel 12 inch CMS will cross cut 8 inches or a little more. I would use it to square a 2x8 anytime versus a track saw, even with a crosscut jig. You have to adjust the height of the track over the wood which is a step you do not have with the CMS. I bought my Hitachi for about $150. It was reconditioned. If your construction cuts are on 2x8s or less, you don't need a slider, a CMS which is less expensive and more accurate, would do fine and not be nearly as expensive. You would need some sort of base for it unless you want to cut on the floor so that would take up space. It sounds like that could be an issue.

From what I read, the Eurekazone will also not really be adequate to crosscut 2X lumber unless you get something more than the normal 7 1/4 inch saw. You need on the order of 1 3/4 inch depth of cut because the construction material will not be consistently flat and if you don't go through significantly you will have to use a knife or another saw to finish it. 8 inch or bigger circular saws are more rare and expensive. The only other thing I would say about that option is I see a really big difference between my track saw and my circular saw (a Milwaukee). The track saw has circuitry to maintain a constant blade speed and has variable speed. I care about the constant speed a lot more but the variable may be nice some day. Blade changes are much easier on the tracksaw. It seems to run quieter and with less vibration. None of this is the fault of Eurekazone. I think the people who like the Eurekazone like circular saws. I like them OK but I think my plunge cut tracksaw is just a much nicer saw more consistent with making cabinets and furniture. My circular saw is better for cutting up framing materials freehand. But you could argue a Eurekazone system is more versatile since you could use the circular saw both on and off that system. I use a speed square to square construction lumber unless I use one of the CMSs. Cut can be made by putting the wood on top of your foot to get a little clearance and bend over. A cut table is much nicer, however.

[Keith Outten]

This is a link to a Youtube video concerning the Festool track saw that might be of interest. The language is a bit salty so beware.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oezp-_DcUgg

[Anthony Whitesell]

I find the build of the Festool tracksaw a little disappointing (the bushing and the soft plastic end cap) but otherwise not much of a surprise. I would love to see one of the Dewalt for comparison. Festool is so far outside my price range, I don't worry about them much.

[mreza Salav]

- Plunge action is sometimes very very useful. I have used it when you have to cut a a section in the middle of a sheet (think cutting something like a U).

- Festool has the larger T75 that has bigger blade and more powerful.

- Makita long track works perfectly fine with Festool (I have both).

- Having a riving knife is quite useful when cutting lumber (something that is missing on Makita).

- You can use track saw to miter cut things that you cannot easily hold/secure on a miter saw (I've cut a whole bunch of 2.5" thick curved railing using my track saw on the table).

- You don't need a fancy table to use track saw. Just get a piece of 1.5" or so foam and put it on your bench and there you go. That's how I've been using it. If you want you can secure the foam with double sided tape at a few corners/edges.

[Allan Speers]

They had an EZSmart system setup and while looking at it I realized something critical. I did not take into account the length of the track (54") when thinking about using it as a chop saw. That makes for a REALLY deep workbench or distance from the wall. Not really a space savings while unfolded. One option would be to by a piece of track and cut it in half :eek:. I think I need to think about this plan some more and review the accessories available for the Dewalt vs. EZSmart.

What you'll want is the EZ miter square dingus, as I may have mentioned earlier. (Or in another thread.) I use it more than the actual bench, and would REALLY hate to be without it.

Basically, it's a miter fence with a handle, and a short piece of track attached, tightened to whatever angle you need, vs the handle. I have two, because I like to keep one always at 90 degrees, and that one is JB Welded solid. (dead nuts accurate. My track is just long enough to cut across a 4' sheet, with room on the end for saw support.

On the other one, I have a much shorter track, as that is easy to wield for typical hardwood cuts & 2X4's. I have this even though I own an EZ-ONE table, because I like to work outside in the sunshine whenever possible. Thus, I use my "Smart" table (built primarily for cutting down sheet goods, typically right in the driveway) outdoors, with various attachments, for all sorts of "serious" woodworking. (I also use hand tools, but sometimes I'm just lazy, or can't afford to make a flase cut.)

Anyway, until you use one of these miter squares, you won't realize how easy and accurate they are.

[Anthony Whitesell]

What you'll want is the EZ miter square dingus, as I may have mentioned earlier. (Or in another thread.) I use it more than the actual bench, and would REALLY hate to be without it.

Basically, it's a miter fence with a handle, and a short piece of track attached, tightened to whatever angle you need, vs the handle. I have two, because I like to keep one always at 90 degrees, and that one is JB Welded solid. (dead nuts accurate. My track is just long enough to cut across a 4' sheet, with room on the end for saw support.

Anyway, until you use one of these miter squares, you won't realize how easy and accurate they are.

I don't think I have found the parts you are speaking of.

I found this http://www.rockler.com/ezsmart-square-and-handle-combo but the track is sold separately. I have not found a source for track shorter than 54". I think a shorter track and the bridge would be the best combination. It is kind of a bummer, they don't have a single piece track for 8' sheet goods.

[Jim Dwight]

I didn't know much about the EZ system but have looked at their website a bit and their forum some as a result of the positive comments from users. It seems like a reasonable option if you like a circular saw more than a plunge cut saw. I would go the other way. But the price is higher. To have comparable depth of cut (and at least enough for construction lumber) you need a 8 inch saw. They list one, the Makita 50008 for $319 on their website. It would give you 2 1/8 cut, slightly more than the 2 inch with the DeWalt tracksaw (both on their track). The 108 inch rail kit from EZ is $310. You'd also need a shorter rail, the 54 inch (rail only) is $112. So to duplicate what I have in the DeWalt would cost $741.

Tool Barn has the DeWalt tracksaw with 102 and 54 inch rails for $540. $200 less. For a better (IMHO) saw. Depth of cut is a big advantage for the plunge cut - much easier to set.

That Bridge looks slick but the price is $249. It also looks a bit bulky. The Festool MFT and the Paulk crosscut just let you set the height of the track over the wood. Not as slick but not nearly as expensive.

But the EZ would be under the Festool. Last time I looked, a similar setup to the the DeWalt was about $1000.

[Wayne Hendrix]

I don't think I have found the parts you are speaking of.

I found this http://www.rockler.com/ezsmart-square-and-handle-combo but the track is sold separately. I have not found a source for track shorter than 54". I think a shorter track and the bridge would be the best combination. It is kind of a bummer, they don't have a single piece track for 8' sheet goods.

Take a look at Eureka Zone's website: http://www.eurekazone.com/default.asp You can order shorter and longer tracks directly from them. Rockler and other retailers only carry a limited portion of Eureka Zone's products.

[Greg R Bradley]

People just love to say the Festool saw is almost double the price of the Dewalt.

Dewalt kit with track is $460. Add freight to get to you.

Festool is $640. Includes freight to you. Includes their excellent Systainer system. If you don't want their systainer, that size can be sold pretty much instantly for $70.

That makes the Festool about 20% higher on price. Festool still has 30 day no question return policy. Vastly better warranty and customer service. Only one with offside anti-splinter. Only one with plug it cord system which is a big advantage but only to some buyers, just like the systainer system. Only one with silly high resale value to Festool crazy people.

Where the Festool becomes more expensive is the price of the long track. Dewalt 102" is cheap but doesn't include freight to you. Way too short and no longer track is available. Joining two tracks is horrible on Dewalt. Festool 106" track is still considered a bit short and most people buy the 118", which is generous. Makita 118" track is much less than Festool but may not include freight. You can get them delivered to your local Lowes or HD and avoid freight.

The one that is cheaper is the Makita, which is a very nice saw.

EZ system may require a big saw that weighs a lot. Include a large size high quality blade for that huge saw. You have lost dust collection.

[Mike Henderson]

I bought the Festool and like it. But I don't have anything to compare it to. Never used the DeWalt or Makita.

For certain things, a tracksaw is really excellent. I can't say I use it a lot, but when I need it, it's really nice.

Mike

[Anthony Whitesell]

People just love to say the Festool saw is almost double the price of the Dewalt.

I wouldn't say double, but more expensive. As you mentioned the Festool tracksaw is only 20% higher than the competitors. I think the Festool tracksaw has the closest price to their competitors. Unlike the cost of the Festool mitersaw and router which are almost double ($1400 vs $550 for the bosch glide, and $400 vs $219 for the Bosch 1617).


EZ system may require a big saw that weighs a lot. Include a large size high quality blade for that huge saw. You have lost dust collection.

I'm not thrilled about the lack of dust collection. When using the circular saw outside, I don't care. Where I am trying to move this operation into the basement increases the desire to have a circular saw with dust collection. I need to try the EZSmart with a circular saw to see how (well) the blade guard works. Again, this would be an advantage with the plunge saw provided with the purpose-built tracksaws.

[Jason White]

Have owned the TS55 tracksaw for years and love it! It is NOT a replacement for a tablesaw, however. You need both to do serious woodworking.



I have begun to start pondering getting a tracksaw. Coincidentally, Fine Woodworking sent an email with some basic information and listed six manufacturers.

Festool
Dewalt
Makita
Triton
Grizzly
(and one other I can't read, but is red-orange in color).

Does anyone have any experience with any of them? Anything you don't like or wish was different on the one you have?

There is also the EZSmart Tracksaw kit to convert any circular saw into a panel saw. Any one have or used one of these? How well does the EZSmart track work when compared to the dedicated tracksaw?

Since it looks like a $400-500 investment, I want to slant the odds in my favor of getting the saw I will like the best.

[Allan Speers]

I don't think I have found the parts you are speaking of.

I found this http://www.rockler.com/ezsmart-square-and-handle-combo but the track is sold separately. I have not found a source for track shorter than 54". I think a shorter track and the bridge would be the best combination. It is kind of a bummer, they don't have a single piece track for 8' sheet goods.

Yes, that's it. You can buy any length track you want, (up to 8') directly from Eurekazone. They sell it by the foot. Just go to their website.

BTW - The Rockler ad is misleading. These don't just do 90 degree cuts. You can set any angle. However, there are no detents, so you have to use a regular square or other angle guide to lock it down correctly. - That's why I have two of them. One is glued-down at 90 degrees.

Also, you can't quite tell from the pic, but that handle is really well made. Large & comfortable, and it applies pressure both down and forward at the same time, so the whole thing is very secure without clamps.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Is there a standard circular saw on the market with dust collection built-in (ie., not an add-on)? My stop at Lowe's did not reveal one, but that was only Lowe's.

[James W Glenn]

The Porter Cable circular saw has OK dust collection with a shop vac. I purchased mine with the intention of using it with the EZSmart system. I never got the EZSmart, and the Porter Cable got dropped a couple times and is a little wonky in its adjustments, mainly in holding square as the saw depth is adjusted. It may have been a good choice for the EZSmart before it got put into general use. I'm leaning towards a Makita tracksaw and router set up right now.

[Greg R Bradley]

Is there a standard circular saw on the market with dust collection built-in (ie., not an add-on)? My stop at Lowe's did not reveal one, but that was only Lowe's.
I don't believe there are any that come that way. There is a dust port on the side of some saws and (at least) Bosch makes an attachment for that: Part #CSDCHUTE

It looks like it might fit Makita saws, perhaps even the 8+" one (5008?) that would give you reasonable cutting depth with Eurekazone's system.

I believe Dewalt also has a similar adapter that is sold in US.

Edited to add: The Makita dust adapter for the 5008 saw IS available in NA, Makita #450079-5

I've heard Eurekazone's dust collector works in a completely different spot that will work with most saws.

The problem here is that a non-plunge saw will be crippled on dust collection. A saw not designed with the rest of the dust collection features will be more crippled on dust collection. I've watched a PC Saw that was extensively modified by Eurekazone at high cost and its dust collection was about half what we expect now.

[Mike Wilkins]

You might also pick up the latest issue of Fine Homebuilding magazine. There is an article on track saws and the common brands comparison. The Festool got the top pick, but there are others to consider.

[Brian W Evans]

Seems like this issue has been pretty hashed out but I thought I'd just add my vote for the Makita. I have the Makita saw with 55" and 118" tracks plus the Dewalt clamps. I made a grid support out of 2x4s that rests on sawhorses and I can break down sheets of plywood quite rapidly. I cut some cabinet grade ply recently and was easily able to get it accurate enough that I went straight from the sawhorses to assembly.

One thing to consider is that storing the 118" track might be an issue. I dedicate a level on my wood storage rack to my Makita tracks and consider the space well used.

I would not want to use any part of this system in place of a good CMS. I have a 12" Makita SCMS (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GJS6X8) and I love it.

[Art Mann]

People just love to say the Festool saw is almost double the price of the Dewalt.

Dewalt kit with track is $460. Add freight to get to you.

Festool is $640. Includes freight to you. Includes their excellent Systainer system. If you don't want their systainer, that size can be sold pretty much instantly for $70.

That makes the Festool about 20% higher on price. Festool still has 30 day no question return policy. Vastly better warranty and customer service. Only one with offside anti-splinter. Only one with plug it cord system which is a big advantage but only to some buyers, just like the systainer system. Only one with silly high resale value to Festool crazy people.

Where the Festool becomes more expensive is the price of the long track. Dewalt 102" is cheap but doesn't include freight to you. Way too short and no longer track is available. Joining two tracks is horrible on Dewalt. Festool 106" track is still considered a bit short and most people buy the 118", which is generous. Makita 118" track is much less than Festool but may not include freight. You can get them delivered to your local Lowes or HD and avoid freight.

The one that is cheaper is the Makita, which is a very nice saw.

EZ system may require a big saw that weighs a lot. Include a large size high quality blade for that huge saw. You have lost dust collection.

You should shop at Amazon. The Dewalt products are considerably cheaper than what you are quoting and the shipping cost is zero. My experience has been that Amazon typically ships faster than places like Woodcraft or Rockler.

[Harry Holzke]

I have a Festool TS55 REQ and a CT36 that I have had for about 6 months. I cut a fare amount of sheet goods to make large art panels and decided to give this combo a try. I am delighted to say that the combo has impressed me along with the excellent dust collection. However … I picked up a panel saw (Safety Speed) that was part of a bundle on Craigslist and have not used the track saw since. The CT36 gets used everyday though. Was originally going to sell the panel saw but it makes breaking down panels so darn easy easy.

[Greg R Bradley]

You should shop at Amazon. The Dewalt products are considerably cheaper than what you are quoting and the shipping cost is zero. My experience has been that Amazon typically ships faster than places like Woodcraft or Rockler.
Amazon is about the same on that than where he was looking. $467.89 vs the $460 he found. That one looks like it includes freight but that changes as Amazon has various vendors on the same item. Some will also include sales tax. I find Amazon has the best price about 20% of the time on what I buy.
Example, I just bought 4 sheet goods racks from three different manufacturers: Jamco, Fairbanks, Little Giant. Amazon was the highest of the 4 vendors. I've bought a bunch of Durham hardware storage racks and ended up buying the rack from Zoro and the bins from Amazon.

[Anthony Whitesell]

It appears the Makita, Dewalt, and Festool offer a router adapter. Do any others? Have I missed it?

Do any of the track saw router adapters fit a Bosch 1617EVS?

[Ken Kortge]

It appears the Makita, Dewalt, and Festool offer a router adapter. Do any others? Have I missed it?

Do any of the track saw router adapters fit a Bosch 1617EVS?

Anthony,

Eurekazone a very nice "Super Smart Router Kit" (SSRK) for their track saw system. I actually bought an extra Bosch 1617EVS plunge router base (RA1166) that I installed on the SSRK so I can easily (quickly) use the router both off track and on track.

Details here: http://www.eurekazone.com/category_s/2033.htm

Base installation video here (actually using the 1617 plunge base): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvoV66awAxE

Using the SSRK video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-HscM_vnCk and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=su88uvZN_Ac

In the second video showing how to use it to create dados and rabbets he really doesn't go too much into the detail of how he created the pieces of wood he uses to adjust the "limit stops" so it cuts the dado/rabbet width to perfectly match the target T-track or wood.

For dados: The basic idea is that you use the limit stops to define the dado width, but then you have to reduce that distance by the width of the router bit. Eurekazone says they like to use 1/2 bits for 3/4" plywood dados - cut to perfect width in two passes.

1. You place the router bit on the inner edge of where the dado will be, slide the limit stop on the other side of the traveler bridge (the part that touches the track) so it touches the bridge, and lock the limit stop. This defines the dado cut width on that side.

2. You place a dado-width piece of wood on the other side of the traveler bridge and slide the other limit stop toward the traveler bridge so the wood is trapped between the traveler bridge and the unlocked limit stop. Lock that limit stop. At point, if you remove the wood and slide the traveler bridge and router side-to-side you'll see that the dado cut width will be too wide. That is because you need to remove the width of the router bit from the travel width.

3. To do this, Place the router bit (or a spacer of the exact same width) up against the limit stop (where the wood was). Slide the traveler bridge until it touches the bit/spacer. Lock down the traveler bit so it stays in place for the next step.

4. Remove the bit/spacer, unlock the limit stop it was touching, and slide the stop until it touches the traveler bridge. You've now removed the exact width of the router bit from the dado cut width.

5. Unlock the traveler bridge and slide it side-to-side. You'll see that the dado cut width is perfect.

I recommend locking down the traveler bridge while cutting the dado. So you unlock the bridge, slide it to one side, cut the dado, unlock the bridge, slide it to the other side, and then cut again. If you need to clear the inner area of the dado then slide the bridge to suit. lock the bridge, and cut. You can carefully adjust one of the limit stops to "dial in" the width if you want the dado tighter or looser.

So those little wood pieces in the video are the width of the wood (or the T-track) minus the width of the router bit - so he can set the limit stops quicker.

Rabbets are slightly different. You can align the router bit on the OUTSIDE edge wood, set and lock the limit stop on the opposite side of the traveler bridge, put a rabbet-width piece of wood on the other side of the traveler bridge, slide that limit stop until it traps the wood, lock the limit stop. That is it. You don't need to adjust for the width of the router bit because it started outside of the cut area.

You can also buy parallel stops that you place on the track to create grooves (I'm not sure if that's the right term -- dados that stop in in mid-wood) or stopped rabbets (I made up that term).

[Anthony Whitesell]

Yep. I missed that one. EurekaZone does have one that will work with any router. Are there any others that work with the Bosch router?

I'm leaning away from the EZsmart due to the lack of dust collection on the circular saw. Due to pricing, I'm leaning towards the Dewalt or the Makita, more towards the Dewalt due to popularity/availabilty. Leaning away from the Festool due to the higher price (though it isn't much more expensive, it is the highest price).

[David Bassett]

.... Are there any others that work with the Bosch router? ....

I *THINK* I have read Bosch & DeWalt routers have the same design (hole size, spacing, etc.) for attachments. Hopefully someone can confirm or deny for you. You do need to confirm it before the rest of this applies.

I can confirm the Makita track router guide fits a DeWalt #611 router.

To me, this suggests the DeWalt track router guide would fit (at least some) Makita routers, but I can't confirm that either. Since the Makita & DeWalt tracks have different cross sections using the appropriate guide and adapting it to your router seems important, but there seems to be good compatibility in this respect.

Another note, I've never looked at the EurekaZone guide, it sounds like it may have more features than the Makita guide.

[Jim Dwight]

It appears the Makita, Dewalt, and Festool offer a router adapter. Do any others? Have I missed it?

Do any of the track saw router adapters fit a Bosch 1617EVS?

There is a customer review on Amazon that says the DeWalt fits the Bosch 1617 with no modifications. I haven't used mine yet but it appears to attach where the edge guide would so if the hole spacing is the same as a DeWalt or PC, it would work. Apparently it does.

[Rich Riddle]

I have nothing but good things to say about my Festool track saw. That said, I didn't drink their kool-aid. Only have the track saw and one sander someone gave me. Just remember to make sure your track is long enough or there could be "kick back" issues. I much prefer the track saw to table saw for breaking down large pieces of plywood. It also trims doors very well if the get the TS-75. It's a bit larger.