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View Full Version : How to remove a Delta Bandsaw's lower wheel?



Allan Speers
09-20-2015, 11:49 PM
I've decided to sell my old Delta 14" Bandsaw, but want to replace the tires & grease the bearings first.

I've read a number of threads on this, on many forums. About 2/3 say the nut is reverse-threaded, but 1/3 say rt-threaded.

It won't come off either way, though I managed to get it to move a tiny amount in the clockwise direction, so I'm assuming I just tightened it some more.


This is practically making me go postal. Can someone tell me FOR CERTAIN which direction?

Also any tips on how to brace the wheel? I tried jamming a metal rod in-between the spokes, but the amount of forced this requires might actually damage whatever that rod is butted against, like the frame. :eek:

It's a 2005 Delta 28-475 X5, in case that matters.


Help me please. :(

John TenEyck
09-21-2015, 10:57 AM
My Delta 14" (vintage 1960's) is right hand treaded, and the nuts came off easily. Those nuts aren't supposed to be tightened all that much because they snug against the bearings. Just snug with a wrench is about right. The bearings are sealed so there's no need to do anything unless they are bad. As such, I would do nothing. But if you can't leave it be, try putting PB Blaster on the treads for a few days then try removing the nut. I would not jamb anything into the wheel to brace it. Get a helper to hold it or put a band clamp around it and tie that to the frame maybe. If it still won't come off, I guess you'll have to heat the but with a hot air gun or torch, carefully.

You can change the tires w/o removing the wheels and that's all I would do if the wheels turn OK with no bearing noises.

John

Allan Speers
09-21-2015, 4:22 PM
Thanks, John.


Heat is a good idea. I'll try a hair dryer.

As for the bearings, you actually CAN repack sealed bearings, if you're very careful. (I don't necessarily recommend it. The trick is getting the guard ring off without any damage. The balls won't come out, but you can flush them with gasoline. I already did the top one with excellent results.

Bruce Wrenn
09-21-2015, 9:25 PM
Air impact wrenches were made for things like this.

Keith Westfall
09-21-2015, 10:34 PM
Is there just a bit of the shaft showing so you can see the threads? If so, it would make it easy to determine the required rotation.

David C. Roseman
09-22-2015, 11:10 AM
Air impact wrenches were made for things like this.


Yup, so long as Allan's certain of the thread direction. ;)

On my 30 y/o Rockwell (Delta) 14" bandsaw, the axle threads for both wheels are right handed, and the lower axle retaining nut takes a 1" socket. With an impact wrench on a moderate setting there should be no need to brace the wheel for removal, and if fact it is safer for the components if you do not. For reassembly, I would hand-tighten snugly only.

Allan, if you do not have an air or electric impact wrench, you can immobilize the wheel with a block of wood through the spokes (on the left side of the wheel, from the operator's perspective). Slide the block under the cast iron bracing, and you should be good to go, using a standard 1/2" ratchet. I would not use an extended breaker bar. The cast iron webbing is tough, but if you aren't able to free the nut without a great deal of force, stop. You now have justification for a new tool. :)

Jim Wheeler
09-23-2015, 3:58 PM
Hi, Allan:

Information at http://www.ereplacementparts.com/spec-nut-p-84681.html (discussion) says that nut is right hand threaded, but it is a fine thread. Alas, it is no longer available, so don't break it.

You can simulate the action of an air impact wrench by holding the wheel and a wrench - box end or open end - together in one hand and whacking on the wrench with a brass or lead hammer with the other hand. A wooden mallet would probably also work - anything but a rubber hammer or dead blow mallet. Lots of moderate whacks. Wear a glove on the wrench hand if necessary.

Jim

He who welds steel with flaming pine cones may accomplish anything!

Allan Speers
09-23-2015, 6:26 PM
Good idea, Jim.

I'm getting back to this project in a few days. Will try the hammer tap- tap -tap.

Pete Staehling
09-23-2015, 7:42 PM
My model 28-245 delta has left handed threads on the lower wheel. It was pretty easy to remove.

Why take the chance on taking it apart if it is hard and you are selling it? Are the bearings noticeably bad or something?

The tires aren't too hard to change without removing the wheels.

Allan Speers
09-23-2015, 11:23 PM
Oh heck, just when I thought I knew what to do.


Maybe you're right, I should just keep the wheel on. (thanks.) Ughh ....

Jim Wheeler
09-23-2015, 11:54 PM
My model 28-245 delta has left handed threads on the lower wheel. It was pretty easy to remove.

Why take the chance on taking it apart if it is hard and you are selling it? Are the bearings noticeably bad or something?

The tires aren't too hard to change without removing the wheels.


The model 28-245 bandsaw does not appear in the list of machines with which this right hand threaded nut, Delta part number 902070307171S (http://www.ereplacementparts.com/spec-nut-p-84681.html), is compatible. You can look for yourself here; just scroll down: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/spec-nut-p-84681.html Apparently some models used left hand threaded nuts and some used right hand threaded ones - hence the confusion.​

Regards,

Jim

He who welds steel with flaming pine cones may accomplish anything!

Bill ThompsonNM
09-24-2015, 2:28 AM
The OP's machine is a 28-475x

Notice that on the eparts.com picture and parts list this: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/spec-nut-p-84681.html?osCsid=fujue5p6s8im8i8hhilskv3u90
Right handed nut is listed.
The list in the nut specs does include the 28-475x, so in simple tetms your nut is a right hand thread. Whack away at it if that floats your boat.

Allan Speers
09-24-2015, 3:09 AM
Wow, thanks Bill !