(Self-?)Loosening chip breaker (Philly, US area)

[Barry Dima]

Hi all,

I'm having a bear of a time with my plane. I'm pretty green to woodworking and neanderthal-ing in general, so please excuse any seemingly self-apparent ignorance I may spit out herein.

The chip breaker on my Mujingfang jack keeps coming loose, causing it drift toward the blade's edge. A few rough passes seems to expedite the process, although sometimes these passes do nothing at all to the CB. The plane invariable chatters, clogs, cuts like junk, and laughs at me. About half the time I go to remove the blade, the CB just flops down; it hadn't been secure at all.

I've tried to remedy what I think is the culprit: the poor seating between the CB and the blade, which could be loosening the screw--I guess? So, I honed (?) the bevel on the CB, trying to give the mating area a uniform surface. The attached pic is the CB's new edge, in case it helps.

321818

Any ideas? Because on top the regular twist I'm planing onto surfaces, I'm ready to eat the Mujingfang.

(I put my area in the thread name because if anyone's local and willing to show me a thing or two re: planing, I'll happily supply some sandwiches and drinks, unless you're hungry for a hand plane.)

[Brian Holcombe]

Barry, do you have a set of feeler gauges? If not do you have some spare computer paper or newspaper?

assemble the chipper and a newspaper clamped between the blade and chipper at the edge....if you can pull it through than it's not seating flat. Try this is the middle and at the sides.

[Jim Koepke]

Sometimes a picture is too close to be able to determine what is going on.

This image looks like the chip breaker could be mounted on the bevel side of the blade.

As a rule, a chip breaker needs to make contact all across on the blade without presenting a lip or burr for shavings to catch.

With the screw fully tightened it shouldn't move. Of course some may not have a screw and then the double iron becomes a bit trickier.

jtk

[bridger berdel]

That's a wedged plane, right? I have had trouble with the wedge moving the chipbreaker on planes where there was a bit of springiness in the blade/chipbreaker assembly. I kind of doubt that that is what is going on here, but it's all I've got.

[Barry Dima]

First, thanks all. I really appreciate the help.

Brian, the paper pulls through at both corners—more easily at the corner that gums up the worst. And now that I'm looking for the fifth time, light is coming through there too. Oy. Thanks for the tip.

Jim, I really shouldn't post in frustration right before I go to bed. That picture is just the chip breaker alone, namely it's underside. The tip is the where it's to mate with the blade. Looking at the picture now, though, it looks like it could be anything.

Bridger, yep, wedged. I think you're onto something, too. With the chip breaker moving, I think it's affecting the wedge, which will often go slack, causing the blade to retreat into the plane with a stoke.

[Brian Holcombe]

Barry,

Sounds like you found the major issue, either the chipper or blade are not flat at the mating point. Flatten these and likely the problem will be resolved. What are you working with for flattening equipment? (Sharpening stones, ect).

Paper is about .003" thick, which is giant in this case....as your shavings are likely about the same thickness. So it is loosing traction due to poor fit and also shavings are likely finding their way into that gap.

[Barry Dima]

Barry,

Sounds like you found the major issue, either the chipper or blade are not flat at the mating point. Flatten these and likely the problem will be resolved. What are you working with for flattening equipment? (Sharpening stones, ect).

Paper is about .003" thick, which is giant in this case....as your shavings are likely about the same thickness. So it is loosing traction due to poor fit and also shavings are likely finding their way into that gap.

Yea, the back's an issue too. I thought I'd done a good job flattening it, but some reliable rulers are telling me otherwise. I'm using DMT Dia-Sharps--all four grits of two-sides plates--but the steel's A2 and it's a bit convex, so I'm making a double coffee.

EDIT: And I may go buy some super coarse wet-dry sandpaper for this.

[Brian Holcombe]

Can you tell me more about the sandwiches and drinks?

[Barry Dima]

Can you tell me more about the sandwiches and drinks?

For one, the USPS delivery person looked at me cross when I handed over a meatball sub and veggie hoagie and said, "These are for Brian Holcombe." USPS is apparently happy to deliver—and package!—the beer and iced tea, though. How gracious, right?

[Brian Holcombe]

Hah, I like where this thread is going!

Here are a couple more ideas for you;
* sand off or file off any burrs that might be on the top of his cap iron
* apply a little bit of wax to the bottom of the wedge and the top of the cap iron that mates with the wedge
* scuff the back side of the cutting iron where the cap iron screw contacts it, either with a coarse stone or coarse sandpaper. If possible, it doesn't hurt to sand around the underside of the cap iron screw, either.

Then repeat after me; Single Malt Scotch....USPS knows where to find me :)

[Barry Dima]

Then repeat after me; Single Malt Scotch.

That was the classiest I've been in months.

[Brian Holcombe]

Hah! Well played Barry, well played.