A bit more on getting the best from honing guides

[Derek Cohen]

I've had the LN gauge a short while now. It was purchased to use with BU plane blades, which require a secondary microbevel. This cannot be done freehand, which would be my preference for honing nearly all other blades.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Sharpening/Honing%20Guides/Guide4_zpsorgemvf1.jpg

It is an excellent guide, and for myself I think it will be left in its standard form for BU plane blades only. It is easy to set up with a jig for blade projection. The narrow wheel, similar to the Eclipse, makes honing a camber easy.

This narrow wheel, however, is not the ideal design for narrow blades that require a square blade, such as narrow chisels, shoulder plane blades, and mortice chisels.

Generally, with the exception of mortice chisels, I hollow grind and freehand sharpen all the others mentioned. However, if you do wish to have a guide that works well on these blades, try the new side holding LV guide for narrow blades. With the wide roller it is rock solid.

LN do not recommend their mortice add-ons for mortice chisels other than their own make. I use RI chisels. I prefer a honing guide for this since I add a 35 degree secondary bevel to a 20 degree primary bevel. Actually the best honing guide for mortice chisels is the Sharp Skate, but I do not think that these are available (from Harrelson Stanley) any longer.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Sharpening/Mortice%20chisel/SS2_zpsejixzwtd.jpg

The LV guide is not intended for mortice chisels. They are considered too deep to be held securely by the guide jaws. The same can be said for the LN in standard disguise. Both work if you crank the jaws down, but this is not recommended.

There is a simple "modification" to the LV that will enable RI (or other English bolstered types) to be help securely: (1) add 240 grit sandpaper to the jaws (I used a sticky back) - this locks the vertical sides of the mortice chisels securely enough for quite vigorous honing, and (2) place the LV roller in the second position for the Blade Carrier and the second microbevel position. This will increase the depth between the blade carrier and the wheels to its maximum and fit the 1/4" RI mortice chisel with room to spare. Not enough for the 3/8", however.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Sharpening/Honing%20Guides/Guide8_zpszywu2mor.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ken hatch]

Derek,

If I can find a couple of seconds to rub together I will see if a friend (he owes me a favor, I re-did the Cherry trim on his motorhome) can fab a spacer for the LN mortise jaw. If the jaw had 7mm more depth it would work with all the RI mortise chisels. If he can make one and it works I'll post here.

We are in much the same camp, the only reason I was interested in the LN jig was for use on my pig stickers and some of the plow plane irons, the rest I'd rather freehand. I have to say to get so close but still no joy is a disappointment. I can understand LN's position but....still a disappointment.

ken

[Derek Cohen]

Hi ken

LN are on the right track with regards combining side clamping and top clamping with a mortice blade. Side clamping is needed to keep it square, while top clamping is needed to prevent it tilting. Both LV and LV do one but not both on a general basis. LN can only offer both on their chisels because the shafts are pretty parallel, not tapered.

The problem with a tapered end for the LN guide, as I earlier recommended you try to do with spacers, is that extending the blade will alter the "ideal" setting. The compromise is a side clamp on the LV with sandpaper as non-slip.

This is why the best is the Sharp Skate - top clamping without skewing the blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek