Filling small holes with West System

[David Ragan]

Hi-the West stuff arrived, I have the 105/207 extra clear stuff w pumps.

Going to fill some worm tracks in small wood for handheld mirrors. Holes maybe 1/4", and track through the wood, meandering, really cool.

I was thinking.....will the epoxy completely fill the hole, I mean, will surface tension be a problem? Like, do I need to coat the inside of the 1/4" worm track with a solvent like DNA, acetone, vinegar to wet it so that the epoxy will flow into it and show the texture of the wood in the hole itself?

the work is only maybe 1/2" thick, I should be able to pour/fill all at once, right?

And, I read prior threads on this, a guy said if you do sand it, it goes milky (of course), but when topcoat with poly, it's shiny again....is this right.

What about the blushing thing, if that happens, it will be obvious to me, right? Just wash it off.

What you all think?

As always, thanks!

[lowell holmes]

Someone in this forum told us to put used coffee grounds in epoxy to fill holes in wood projects. It will color the epoxy to more closely match the wood.

[David Hawxhurst]

i would coat/wet the holes/tracks with epoxy before pouring. you should limit the depth to about ~1/8" per pour to avoid air bubbles. deeper pours may not allow the air to full escape.

when you sand it it does get cloudy. what your actually seeing is the sanding scratches in the epoxy. when you apply a clear finish over it will look clear again. 105/207 doesn't usually have to many blushing problems. a faster cure would probably have some.

[David Ragan]

Someone in this forum told us to put used coffee grounds in epoxy to fill holes in wood projects. It will color the epoxy to more closely match the wood.

Thanks, Lowell

She wants clear. Crystal.

[Jon Nuckles]

She wants clear. Crystal.

If you deliver anything less than clear, you will be in danger. Grave danger.

[Davis Young]

I've filled a lot of holes with 205 but not the 207 in holes of all sizes. I find the smaller sized holes problematic in that when I fill it to the top or past the top, I come back to find that they have cured while underfilled. Most likely air bubbles have risen up or the epoxy finds some place to go and the hole is cratered. Usually a second application takes care of it. Seldom do I need a third or more. I have some syringes that fit into some of the holes like from 16d nails and I find that helps lessen the air bubbles. Sometimes the epoxy cures in the syringe thus ruining it but other times I have been able to dispense all the epoxy, remove the plunger, and then peel away the remains after it's cured and reuse it. As for the clarity, I have used a card scraper over the epoxy and it does a good job of leveling it off and doesn't dull the epoxy. You could also use micro mesh or some type of fine sandpaper to clear it up.

[Brad M. Allen]

If possible, use a shop vac on the underside to create a vacuum to suction the epoxy into the wood. Just make sure you stop once you see it coming through. Make sure to tape thoroughly.

[David Ragan]

If you deliver anything less than clear, you will be in danger. Grave danger.


So true.

I'm just the technical advisor, right?

Got the 105/207 and mixed them up using some small syringes-took collar off (hub?) and enlarge exit hole with heated nail. worked great on a test piece. Crystal clear. Didn't do the heat gun thing, so had some bubbles. Pre=coated the through holes with the 105 with some Mirka push through piece, ie no problems with surface tension as I had feared.

there was a little seapage into the surrounding wood. I came back and put some more on before full cure. No layer effect seen.

Appears to take RC Poly well.

And, I read in the literature that it keeps forever on the shelf....says the 207 may yellow a little with time. so I took some Argon and put in the can-hopefully that will block the oxygen.

I asked permission to apply to piece in the earlier picture. Permission denied. If/when she decides to use this, I'll post the picture.

Thanks for the replies.

[Mark W Pugh]

i would coat/wet the holes/tracks with epoxy before pouring. you should limit the depth to about ~1/8" per pour to avoid air bubbles. deeper pours may not allow the air to full escape.

when you sand it it does get cloudy. what your actually seeing is the sanding scratches in the epoxy. when you apply a clear finish over it will look clear again. 105/207 doesn't usually have to many blushing problems. a faster cure would probably have some.

Dave,

I was getting ready to ask this question. I did not know the scratches would disappear after a clear coat was added. This relieves my fears on some projects I need to do.

Tkanks

[David Ragan]

When you consider that a non-reflective finish is just rougher, etc it makes sense. I think all liquids are naturally "gloss"; silica is added to flattened them.
Micro Mesh is a system used (I been told) to rub out scratched aircraft windshields-I finished a jewelry box w it yrs ago and it looks/feels like I sprayed it

[Yonak Hawkins]

If you deliver anything less than clear, you will be in danger. Grave danger.

This reminds me of following up an ad for rolling carts a guy had for sale. While perusing through his carts, one caught my eye that was real nice .. heavy duty with large wheels. I said, "What would you take for that one ?"

He said, "My wife sort of has her eyes on that one," so I said, "Oh, well you better let her have it then."

"She don't tell me what to do," says he, and he sold it to me at a really good price.

[David Ragan]

This reminds me of following up an ad for rolling carts a guy had for sale. While perusing through his carts, one caught my eye that was real nice .. heavy duty with large wheels. I said, "What would you take for that one ?"

He said, "My wife sort of has her eyes on that one," so I said, "Oh, well you better let her have it then."

"She don't tell me what to do," says he, and he sold it to me at a really good price.
Sounds like the poor fellow had no sense of humor