Should I put up a wind break for my green cherry?

[Max Neu]

I am getting a stack of cherry tomorrow from a nice cheery tree.I live out in the country which is wide open with no trees or buildings around for wind breaks,so it's alway's breezy out here.Should I use a mesh tarp to cover the west side to slow down some of the wind?I am concerned it might dry too fast with the breezy conditions it will be in,looking for some suggestions.

[AL Ursich]

My first though was to error on the side of caution... You do less damage slowing the drying process with a non contact tarp. But it you dry it too fast then you may do damage you cannot correct...

I am by no means an expert on this, I just have been reading about drying and milling for over 10 years...

[Bradley Gray]

I wouldn't worry about the breeze but I would block sunlight and seal the ends

[Art Mann]

Even with bright sunshine, warm weather and a stiff breeze, your lumber is going to dry much, much slower than being kiln dried.

[Scott T Smith]

I am getting a stack of cherry tomorrow from a nice cheery tree.I live out in the country which is wide open with no trees or buildings around for wind breaks,so it's alway's breezy out here.Should I use a mesh tarp to cover the west side to slow down some of the wind?I am concerned it might dry too fast with the breezy conditions it will be in,looking for some suggestions.

Max, typically drying rate is the most critical from green down to 35% MC, so in theory hanging a mesh tarp upwind from your stack is not a bad idea. However, at this time of the year the weather is starting to cool down and thus the drying rate of lumber is reduced.

If it were me, I would consider hanging a mesh tarp (50% restriction, give or take) a foot or three away from your stack for around 30 - 60 days. By then, the surface MC% should be reduced to the point where the tarp is no longer needed.

It's always a good idea to cover the stack to minimize rain, snow and UV infiltration, but typically the sides can be left open.

Scott

[Danny Hamsley]

I have found cherry easy to dry. The pith will crack no matter how you dry it, that is just a given. The good thing is that at night, when the humidity gets high, air drying allows the wood to condition, i.e. equalize the drying stress from the low humidity drying during the day. I would think that with cherry, if you air dry it under a cover, it will be hard to mess it up.

[Charles Randal Smith]

I wouldn't worry about blocking the airflow. But I agree with the other opinions: it is critical to cover the stack(s) and seal the ends. If the pith can be cut out when it is being milled, that would be great, but otherwise just accept that pith-containing boards will crack along the pith regardless of what you do. When it is dry, you will have some beautiful wood.
Charles

[Max Neu]

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions!I think I will keep a close eye on it for for the next month or so,and put a wind block up if necessary.I do have a 2' overhang around all the sides and sealed the ends with anchor seal.As Scott stated,if I do put up a wind block,I will probably just keep it away from the stack about 5',and take it down after a month or two.

I am going to be making another stack of quarter sawn white oak tomorrow,would it be a good idea to stack it to the east side of the cherry I already have sitting there,so it get's a wind block also?

[Danny Hamsley]

Yes, white oak needs to dry a bit slower than cherry. It is a good plan.

[John TenEyck]

I have started to use mesh on the upwind side of my stacks and it appears to be beneficial. It's about 1 ft away and wraps around both ends. To early to tell for sure but it looks encouraging and there has been no incidence of mold or other problems.

John