Marc Rochkind
09-14-2015, 4:04 PM
Here's my Adirondack chair, which follows the design in the Fine Woodworking article almost exactly:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/adirondack-chair.aspx
321428
There's not much I can say about its construction, as many people have built something similar already, but here are a few comments about the wood:
I used very rough cedar sold by my local Home Depot, all construction grade, as you can see from the knots in the photo. The 1 inch pieces (sides, cradles for the back, risers) were milled from 2x6s, which worked well because there was plenty of wood to work with. If fact, I chose to resaw the generously thick boards after jointing, to save wear-and-tear on my planer knives. But not so for the thinner boards, which started out what Home Depot calls 1x4. Actual thickness was 7/8 inch, but by cutting them to size and keeping jointing and planing to a minimum, I was left with about 5/8 inch. The plans called for a true 3/4, but I didn't think the difference was important. The arms were glued up from the 4 inch wide boards (3 1/2 actual) and reinforced by biscuits. I did that without regard to how I would cut the curves with the bandsaw, which resulted in a few exposed biscuits. As they're in the inside (the large curves that go around the sitter's body), they're not too noticeable. In an outdoor piece with knotty lumber to begin with, I don't think they matter.
My next chair (a single chair is very lonely under the tree) might be of the same wood, or I might spring for clear cedar or white oak, if I can get them.
I think there are 29 pieces of wood in total. Once I had them all cut to size, the assembly was about the most fun I've ever had in the shop. Aside from the glued-up arms, everything is screwed together, with no glue. No finish either, as the chair is supposed to turn gray, like me.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/adirondack-chair.aspx
321428
There's not much I can say about its construction, as many people have built something similar already, but here are a few comments about the wood:
I used very rough cedar sold by my local Home Depot, all construction grade, as you can see from the knots in the photo. The 1 inch pieces (sides, cradles for the back, risers) were milled from 2x6s, which worked well because there was plenty of wood to work with. If fact, I chose to resaw the generously thick boards after jointing, to save wear-and-tear on my planer knives. But not so for the thinner boards, which started out what Home Depot calls 1x4. Actual thickness was 7/8 inch, but by cutting them to size and keeping jointing and planing to a minimum, I was left with about 5/8 inch. The plans called for a true 3/4, but I didn't think the difference was important. The arms were glued up from the 4 inch wide boards (3 1/2 actual) and reinforced by biscuits. I did that without regard to how I would cut the curves with the bandsaw, which resulted in a few exposed biscuits. As they're in the inside (the large curves that go around the sitter's body), they're not too noticeable. In an outdoor piece with knotty lumber to begin with, I don't think they matter.
My next chair (a single chair is very lonely under the tree) might be of the same wood, or I might spring for clear cedar or white oak, if I can get them.
I think there are 29 pieces of wood in total. Once I had them all cut to size, the assembly was about the most fun I've ever had in the shop. Aside from the glued-up arms, everything is screwed together, with no glue. No finish either, as the chair is supposed to turn gray, like me.