Color bleading in segmented bowls?

[Barry Block]

Hi all,

I'm turning my first segmented bowl. Its Hard maple and Parduk. It's just layered wood. Sanding and finishing has been troublesome as parts of my Maple are now pink. What should I have done to avoid this?

At first I didn't pay any mind to my sanding then I noticed what happened so I started sanded from the maple into the parduk etc and have applied the finish in the same fashion then level out. At this point I don't think I can fix with out taking my gouge back to it. I can live with it the way it is as I spent a ton of time sanding to get it to an acceptable level. I sealed with shellac then sanded the maple down which helped some.

In any case I have another bowl of Walnut and maple on my plate next and would love to know a better way or something I could have done differently.

thanks

[Brian Kent]

I do not expect you will have the same color bleed problem with walnut that you did with Padauk.

[Barry Block]

I certainly hope your right, but I also went and glued up some other segmented blanks with padauk. I would love to avoid the bleed in the future if able.

[Bob Vallaster]

I know your pain.
Any sealer or finish can act as a solvent for the color inherent in some woods. Paduk/vermillion fairly bleed color with the solvent in many finishes and sealers. Matters little when it's a one piece of wood, but you're in for a ride when you go for contrast. Abandon wipe-on finishing for this one.
Use a spray-on sealer. Do not rub it in, Allow to flash off and move up through the grits. You might need additional coats along the way...
Use a spray-on finish.

BobV

[Brian Kent]

Great idea on the spray-on sealer.

[Barry Block]

I'll give that a shot. Thanks

[Sid Matheny]

You might want to read post #22 in this thread.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?233880-Lacquer

[robert baccus]

Try spraying SS from a rattle can lightly with several dry coats. Back away like 18" from your piece and apply very light coats and let dry well. Then come back with a normal wetcoat over that. Then lightly sand with a sponge ad shoot lacquer as usual.

[John Beaver]

"What should I have done to avoid this?"

Avoid the Paduak.

I'm not sure I recommend this for everyone, but I've fixed this issue using a hand held card scraper with the bowl spinning on the lathe. Being careful with the angle and burr you can get a really nice finish, then add sealer before each sanding coat.

[Barry Block]

Got it, I generally spray all my furniture pieces. We have a booth at the shop.

[Barry McFadden]

I have also had bleed when I used Padauk in a segmented bowl....I have never had a problem with other woods like Walnut, Maple, Purpleheart,Zebrawood, bleeding...also when finishing with WOP it would take days for the Padauk to loose it's tacky feel while the other woods were dry in a couple of hours..